Crash Master

I am just getting started in learning how to airbrush my models. I have a decent compressor and a cheapie ($8.00) single action airbrush. The problem I am having is that when I press the trigger, I get a burst of air and nothing else. I have tried this with up to 60 lbs of pressure and laytex paint thinned about 50% with windshield washer fluid.

Anybody have any suggestions or ideas? I thought that when I hot the trigger I should get a steady flow of air and it should start sucking paint. Maybe I should get a better airbrush (mine is an AirAce air brush.

Thanks for any help,

Flyeboy

Crashmaster; I have an air brush and it has two positions on the trigger,. First pos. and nothing but air then as I press harder the paint comes out but in preportion as to the movement of the trigger. Now I wish I knew some one could show me how to paint with it. Flyeboy

Dzlstunter

Try here:

http://www.howtoairbrush.com/default.htm

or here: http://www.airbrushtalk.com/

Good luck, Dzl

Fly4Fun2

My Feedback: (25)

Crash Master -

1 - get a decent airbrush. You can get a Passche VL dual action airbrush for about $60 through www.bearair.com with all the extras. It is a good investment.

2 - Use some decent paint. Yes, the latex w/ water will work(I have no idea aobut winshield washer fluid). Try Createx auto-airs or House of Kolor. They come ready to shoot and do a nice job. The House of Kolor require a lot more set up (i.e. ventilation, etc.). The Creates auto-airs are water based - which offers some negatives, but makes for easy clean up and no enviromental concerns.

Now - with that being said, a single action external mix airbursh can work. Sounds like you need to adjust the height of the paint nozzel to get it in line with the airflow. Also, your paint miz should have the consistency of milk - and try diluting it with water this time.

Hope this helps.

Keith

Crash Master

Thanks for the help gents, but I found out it was my own fault.

When I couldn't get it to work, I started at the compressor and started testing everything. I had air up to the where the coupler on the small air brush line connects to the compressor air line. I found out that when I tightened the coupler, a small washer was compressing and cutting off the air. Took the washer out and it is working fine - for a cheap air brush.

Now I'm experimenting with interior/exterior latex house paint and Rustolems Painter's Choice to see if its fuel-proof. After sparying a small test area and drying it with my heat gun, I put straight 10% Wildcat to it and so far it seems like it just might be fuel-proof. I've had the raw fuel on the test paint for about an hour and rubbed it with my finger and nothing other than feeling oily. I guess that's a good sign?

Thanks again,

Maiden Voyage

Your right on target with the latex

1. It's Cheap!
2. Untold number of colors.
3. No special orders, you can get it anywhere.
4. As you already know it's solvent and fuel resistant.
5. Clean up is easy.
6. No harsh, smelly, skin eating chemicals to deal with.

As long as your not trying to paint monocoat latex is the way to go.

Crash Master

Good news and bad news.

I build mostly SPAD type airplanes using coroplast and my findings on the paint seem to be very favorable for the coroplast. I did a test area with Painters Choice and a cheap Latex paint. I applied raw 10% Wildcat and let it set for about 36 hours. No problems with the paint on the coroplast.

Tonight I took a piece of OZ Cover and sprayed Painters Choice directly to the OZ Cover. As soon as the paint started to dry, it started etching or sider-webbing or whatever its called.

The next test was with Rustolem grey Auto Primer and Painters Choice. Results were not bad considering that I didn't do anything to the primer except spray it on and dry it.

Final test was with the cheap Latex over the primer. Nice bad either for untouched primer.

I dried all the test sprays with my heat gun and let it to set while I cleaned up my airbrush. Then I applied raw 10% Wildcat to all 3 test strips and the results were not good.

The fuel immediately went to work on the paint. Maybe I should have dried the paint and waited a day or two as others have done to see what happens. Maybe I'll do that tomorrow and then put the fuel to it over the weekend.

My conclusion(s): the paints work great on my coroplast tests. They didn't work work a crap on the OZ Cover.

Back to the drawing board,

AlStack

My Feedback: (1)

I know this may sound a little like a mother hen but.... :disappoin make sure you read the labels on whatever you are spraying. I am new to RC planes but very old to model railroading and spray painting. Wear a respirator it is good insurance and provide adequat ventilation, maybe a small spray booth. Just like eye protection in the shop. The new poly compounds and fast drying stuff, even water based can enter your lungs and do bad things. I love the finish I get from spaying and if you follow the directions you will be a happy camper.

Just my two cents worth.
Al

BigBird1

My Feedback: (4)

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Fly4Fun2
[B]Crash Master -



2 - Use some decent paint. Yes, the latex w/ water will work(I have no idea aobut winshield washer fluid).


Windshield washer fluid works great...98 cents a gallon
You can also use Flotrol...avable at home supply stores..more bucks

Different colors spray at different air pressures and some require more thinning than others...

Only thing with the air brush...
Clean with soap and water mix...Dawn or something like that...
Then run mineral spirits through the air brush to keep the internals from rusting from the water mix...

Just a suggestion..
BB1

CafeenMan

I use airbrushes and spray guns for a living. This may go a little against the grain, but for most purposes in model building, a single action airbrush is the better airbrush. Double-action models require a lot of practice - not the occassional use when you're finishing a model. By a lot, I mean daily use for a long time.

Unless you are painting multi-width strokes, then you're just wasting money. I have several single-action models and I use them way more often than double action models. Some were kind of expensive though. Single action brushes can be very high quality and as such cost more.

I cover airbrushes and related paraphenalia about halfway down this page on my web site. It doesn't go into how to airbrush, but how to select an airbrush and air supply. Hope it helps.

http://www.airfieldmodels.com/tools_painting.htm

A.T.

Common problems with single action airbrushes e.g. Badger 350 with screw on bottle {colour cup to small for avareage use):
1. Tiny air bleed hole on top is blocked - especially so with latex paints - use very fine wire to clear which will allow air to enter pot and replace paint being sucked out.
2. Paint to thick, latex should be consistency of full cream milk - do not thin to much as it will resemble curdled milk when applied.
3. Medium nozzle is minium for use with acrylic (latex) paints.
see several reference sites under "Airbrushes" at :
http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~atong/
many other modelling and painting tips under "Fibreglass, Carbon, Resin Molding & Casting Cowls, Spats,Canopies etc."
and "Modelling - Resin,Photoetch,Scale,Paper, Painting, Fonts, FAQ etc."
regards
Alan T.