burnchassis3

Does this replace the guts of the diff,and directly connect the output shafts?
No more 4 bevel gears inside? No dif oil?
Whats the downfall of this?
100% posi,and fewer gears to burn up?
No shims?
Anyone have this?
I've burnt up another diff (the 4 bevel gears),If this will eliminate those gears Im all for it.
THX!

-whitey-

it will reduce ur turnig ability to turn but it will help for rock climbing and winter driving

burnchassis3

Well the tires are usually spinng anyways..so it would turn sharper.
lol
Does it replace the bevel gears?

black mamba

That's a drop in locker...it replaces the spiders and side gears inside the diff.

black mamba

No shims, oil or anything is needed. All you do is simply pull the diff out, pull the ring gear off, pop out the spiders and side gears and replace them with that locker. Put the ring gear back on and that's it.

nkbrisson

question on your driving, do you do lots of dougnuts, ballooning your tires on one side, this will cause diffs to fail.

burnchassis3

Yes my savage is constantly ballooning the inside tires ,thats with 50k rear 30k front oil.
Not only hard on gears ,but it shreads the tires!.
CS

Chronic

Have you tried the Hot Bodies hardened gears? I don't know how strong they are, but that's what I'm putting in mine this time.

nkbrisson

if you get the locker for it, then only put it in the rear, and put thicker oil in the front like 100K or 75K, because if you lock the front, you will not be able to steer, and it will be very hard on servo and all your linkages.

azzman

I agree, do not put one in the front! Savages dont turn the greatest now! And it will be a lot easier to snap dogbones now, so be careful if you do a lot of pavement bashing...but I hear what you are sayin about those spidergears man! I have recently chewed my spiders out and for a cheap diff locker solution (rear) I just kept the worn spiders in and jammed the diff full of blue tack, havent run it too much yet but it seems to be workin ok.
For the front I removed the paper gasket (takes out excess play) and filled it with 50k fluid, to seal it I used a little gasket seal, but with thick fluid it may not even be necessary.
I played around with adding shims inside the diff to remove play in the spider gears, and that works fine too, but I had no paper gasket to replace the old one so leaving it out achieves the same thing.

Chronic, I have tried the Hot Bodies gears and they chewed out as well, IMO eliminating the play is the key...Shims can be added behind the spider gears or behind the bevel gears, depending on what size shims are available.
IMO adding thin as ones behind the spiders would be technically the best option as this would actually increase your tooth contact (spider and bevel) by moving the spiders closer to centre.
Keep adding shims till there is slight binding when turning the assembled diff (dry), then remove one lot of shims and should be as good as it can be.

Phew!...




Phew!....

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I read so much about people have trouble with the differentials and have to wonder what I am doing properly as in WELL over 5 gallons I have yet had a problem with one.

bennyblanco

that makes two of us!!!

Chronic

You are running really lightweight tires, with a tall geared K4.6... and your truck probably tips the scales around 10.25lbs. I really never had any diff issues with my LE other than eating a couple of front ring gears with misadjusted brakes. After hopping it up a little and slapping on bigger/heavier tires, it got nasty. With the current setup, I can pretty much blow diffs apart on demand... seriously.

I'm dropping waaay down in tire size again for this current build. I just got my new Proline Badlands in, and mounted on dish wheels they seem to be somewhere around the same weight and height as the stock Dirtbonz setup. Haven't put them on the scales yet. I'm keeping the 40 series wheels for the track, but I'm putting Panther Pythons on them. They weigh alot less than the SKPs and they are shorter too.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

I am running a 16 CB and a 49 spur, which I do not consider real tall gearing. Being I race on a tight track I do not use a tall gear. Yes I run he HPI Dirt Bonz and they are lighter then most tires and if this keeps from messing up differentials I recommend others run lighter tires in stead of everything else they are trying with little or no success. Yes my truck weights about 10.5 pounds with receiver pack. I do see where lighter tires would help with diff problems. I think a lot of the diff problems people have is there driving habits as far as into the throttle or brakes on when landing from a jump.

Chronic

I know how to drive, but I do mess up. I also have alot of power, three speed, and I've been running a heavy truck with big tires. The new diff setup, taller gearing, and smaller tires I have for it this time should help my truck alot.

I thought you were running a 18T CB, my mistake.

burnchassis3

The engine you run simply cant rip stuff apart,like the 1's I use.
My savage has been through 15+ gallons. 15 gallons with me ,would be like 100 for you.
lol
<YAWN>[sm=tired.gif]

46u

My Feedback: (3)

Chronic I understand what you are saying and we all make mistakes but I do think some just make them much more often then others. True I am only running the K4.6 but as long as it keeps up with and out runs the Revo 3.3’s on the straights at our local track I cannot see why to change. Yes I run a 16 CB and a 49 spur.

I made a big mistake this past weekend at the track and you should see my tuned pipe. [:@]

I all so understand some people can mess up an anvil with a rubber hammer. <YAWN> [X(]

Chronic

Did I do something to piss you off, or what? I don't get that post.


46U, the K4.6 is probably one of the better engines you could be running for what you do and where you do it at. Good smooth power but not uncontrollable or too hard on parts. You've got a good setup.

46u

My Feedback: (3)

No I think I am the one that hurt his feelings! [X(]

I know there are a lot of racers at the tracks that run really hot engines in there truggies and buggies and it seems like they have more problems then those running milder engines. They load up waiting on the start of the race, die, break more and so on. I just put a TZ in my MT stadium truck and all most ready to put my little .15 CV-RX back in, I said all most.

I am so very please with my K 4.6 and I know it is not the fast engine out there but it is so consistent and has no problem handling the Traxxas 3.3 as far as top speed even at the gearing I am running. I will one day try a XTM, LRP or some sort of SH. But for now my K4.6 does the job. My biggest problem is not the truck it is being 52 bad health and all most legally blind. But I sure do have fun and in my short racing carrier have won about 50% of the races I raced at our little local track.