TAMS A-4
Is a King tech K-80 to heavy for tams A-4?? a few ounces heavier than P -70.
11-06-2010, 07:58 AM
#2
RE: TAMS A-4
Ralph,
I do not believe a K-80 will fit. If the K-80 is the size of a P-80...it wont.
I remember Johnny having to chain saw the interior of his Tam A-4 just to get a P-70 installed and it still just barely squeezed in. The A-4 is designed for a P-60/ Super Bee size engine.
Beave
I do not believe a K-80 will fit. If the K-80 is the size of a P-80...it wont.
I remember Johnny having to chain saw the interior of his Tam A-4 just to get a P-70 installed and it still just barely squeezed in. The A-4 is designed for a P-60/ Super Bee size engine.
Beave
11-06-2010, 12:33 PM
#6
RE: TAMS A-4
ORIGINAL: RAPPTOR
What was you total weight?? P-70 powererd??
What was you total weight?? P-70 powererd??
my first one was 21 lbs dry w/ P-70, second was a 'Light Weight' version and it came in at 19 lbs w/ P-70.
ORIGINAL: bevar
I remember Johnny having to chain saw the interior of his Tam A-4 just to get a P-70 installed and it still just barely squeezed in.
I remember Johnny having to chain saw the interior of his Tam A-4 just to get a P-70 installed and it still just barely squeezed in.
Can't say why Johnny had to chain saw his for the P-70, mine fit with no problems at all and room to spare. i must warn though, the P-70 pushes the airframe well past it's limits if you keep the left stick in the ON position.
11-06-2010, 07:01 PM
#9
RE: TAMS A-4
Just keep your speed up, be careful of putting too much G on the wing in turns, keep your speed up and don't forget to keep your speed up.
Beave [8D]
Beave [8D]
ORIGINAL: wrex450
I am close to finally installing the P70 in my A4, what kind of flight times are you seeing? Any other recommendations or watch-outs? Thanks!
I am close to finally installing the P70 in my A4, what kind of flight times are you seeing? Any other recommendations or watch-outs? Thanks!
11-07-2010, 03:26 AM
#10
RE: TAMS A-4
I've got Tam's A-4, I have a Supersport in it at 18.5 pounds of thrust at nearly the same weight and size as a P-60 but with a little less fuel burn. I put in an extra 12 ounces of fuel in the form of a header tank between the saddle tanks, and have my timer set for 7 minutes. I usually shut down with 10 minutes run time including start and taxi (on a taxi tank) and I land after the 7 min timer goes off and have at least 15 ounces left before the UAT, many times a lot more. I can swap out my header tank for a smoke tank but I haven't, I like the extra flight time I get while still having a lot of loiter time if I need it. I fly full throttle a whole lot and the jet moves with a Supersport, it's really fun - but I do limit the heavy G loading. As far as keeping the speed up, I can't really say I go faster than I need to in the pattern. I did at first but then I flew one of Tam's A-4's powered by an EDF and realized that I was being far too chicken on my extra speed added when landing. What the A-4 needs above all else is respect for rough handling at any speed, and also a good CG check. Tam's CG is slightly further aft than his manual, (call him up and speak to him directly on this as I don't want to put something down on print that isn't right). If you yank the sticks around heavily like it's a trainer, it will bite. But it will land very slowly when you get used to it. Just don't yank it around... fly smooth. And I also use a little bit of top rudder in turns and have not felt the dreaded "tuck under" as long as the jet is flown smoothly. I think the A-4 will tuck in heavy G, (hard pulling) as the wing begins to blank the tail out in turbulence, and then the natural tendency is to loose pitch authority. As this usually occurs in turns, the thought is that the nose "tucks" in a turn but it's like saying a cough will kill you when in fact it's the "smoke" that will. The "smoke" is the heavy G handling and not respecting the modified delta wing's tendency to blank out the tail. And, also, I believe it's the lightening quick roll, and over controlling roll with too much bank in turns by accidental over shoot and then too much G trying to maintain altitude. To recover, relax elevator, roll wings level and gently pull out of the descent. Then to avoid doing it again, just give the girl a little more room to make her moves. She can give you a false sense of security because the roll is lightening quick with no problems but the pitch should be "applied" more gracefully.
That brings up another point. Radio setup and expo can be a friend or enemy. Call Tam again and see what he's using, it's easy to have too much juice in the ailerons on this jet.
My A-4 weighs a hair less than 18 pounds dry + UAT. I have the heavy turbine version but I lightened up the airframe in some areas and beefed up the airframe in others. I have absolutely no lead in it, I moved everything as far forward as possible, even the engine, as I modified the ducts and mount to bring the engine forward several inches to balance with no lead in the nose.
You can tell if you have the EDF version (light weight) if your wing roots and other parts of the airframe have lightening holes in them. There are other areas that are different but those are the easiest to see.
PS - the pic of the nose area just shows how much can be stuffed in there if you make the shelf attach to the airframe and not the nose cone. Also, I'm not using Tygon for the fuel pump feed, that was just for initial setup as I have a hard plastic fuel line between the UAT and pump.
That brings up another point. Radio setup and expo can be a friend or enemy. Call Tam again and see what he's using, it's easy to have too much juice in the ailerons on this jet.
My A-4 weighs a hair less than 18 pounds dry + UAT. I have the heavy turbine version but I lightened up the airframe in some areas and beefed up the airframe in others. I have absolutely no lead in it, I moved everything as far forward as possible, even the engine, as I modified the ducts and mount to bring the engine forward several inches to balance with no lead in the nose.
You can tell if you have the EDF version (light weight) if your wing roots and other parts of the airframe have lightening holes in them. There are other areas that are different but those are the easiest to see.
PS - the pic of the nose area just shows how much can be stuffed in there if you make the shelf attach to the airframe and not the nose cone. Also, I'm not using Tygon for the fuel pump feed, that was just for initial setup as I have a hard plastic fuel line between the UAT and pump.
11-07-2010, 03:32 AM
#11
RE: TAMS A-4
Johnny took to cutting a little to fit his P-70 in the A-4 as he was moving his engine forward as far forward as he could to save extra weight needed as ballast to offset the heavy can engine. I did the same thing with my Supersport. It's not so much a chainsaw as a little creative stuffing, grinding and some cutting of ducting. I had to get a custom pipe and do a little creative installation though as my original pipe was not long enough with the new engine position.
Cool 3D those are great pictures!
Cool 3D those are great pictures!
11-07-2010, 11:03 AM
#18
RE: TAMS A-4
ORIGINAL: RAPPTOR
.. how can i tell if i have the light vertion??
.. how can i tell if i have the light vertion??
11-07-2010, 02:57 PM
#19
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RE: TAMS A-4
ORIGINAL: Eddie P
Johnny took to cutting a little to fit his P-70 in the A-4 as he was moving his engine forward as far forward as he could to save extra weight needed as ballast to offset the heavy can engine. I did the same thing with my Supersport. It's not so much a chainsaw as a little creative stuffing, grinding and some cutting of ducting. I had to get a custom pipe and do a little creative installation though as my original pipe was not long enough with the new engine position.
Cool 3D those are great pictures!
Johnny took to cutting a little to fit his P-70 in the A-4 as he was moving his engine forward as far forward as he could to save extra weight needed as ballast to offset the heavy can engine. I did the same thing with my Supersport. It's not so much a chainsaw as a little creative stuffing, grinding and some cutting of ducting. I had to get a custom pipe and do a little creative installation though as my original pipe was not long enough with the new engine position.
Cool 3D those are great pictures!
11-07-2010, 03:40 PM
#21
RE: TAMS A-4
Thanks Cool3D, I still use the stock bolts to secure the fiberglass nose cone. But the equipment shelf is secured to the front fuselage former and braced as it is permanently mounted to the airframe. The nose cone slips around it and mounts to the fuse like the stock nose cone. Truth be told it does not need the stock mounts, it's just a fiberglass nose fairing and it could probably be mounted in a lighter and more convenient way to remove and replace, than it is.
11-08-2010, 01:49 AM
#22
RE: TAMS A-4
ORIGINAL: rickj202
The P-100 was not shown at Jet power 2010. However I spoke with the Jetcat folks and indeed it is due to be released in the new future. It is suppose to be the size of a P-70 can but shorter putting out thrust in the range of 100 N to 130 N. The thrust is to be determined on further testing.
The P-100 was not shown at Jet power 2010. However I spoke with the Jetcat folks and indeed it is due to be released in the new future. It is suppose to be the size of a P-70 can but shorter putting out thrust in the range of 100 N to 130 N. The thrust is to be determined on further testing.
11-08-2010, 01:33 PM
#24
RE: TAMS A-4
I had 100+ flights on mine and imo the best overall motor at this time would be the wren ss. I had a cranked up P-60 which flew the jet fine but was a little bit of a gas hog considering there is only 70oz onboard. The Tams A-4 is a good flying little jet but needs to be as light as possible, adding bigger motors and more weight is not the way to go.You are just asking for trouble, this is not a big jet. Eddie P pretty much covered the flying part of the A4. With wings level on final she is a very easy and predictable jet to land.
Vin...
Vin...
