medic6115

Well first off I would like to say this is one of the most professional packages I have ever seen. Kit comes cut to perfection, shrink wrapped together with a nice manual with step by step instructions. Comes with gas tank mounting hooks (even though I will be doing a different mount, still nice to have!), and a mounting plywood board to lay your boat out for assembly! Way to go! I will definately be buying from Zippkits in the future!


Ok now on to the build. Today will be the day when FedEx and UPS show up. So far the Kit has arrived. I should be getting the engine, and all my building hardware and glues etc here in a little bit. I will post pics as the the build goes on.


I will build my temporary workbench today and start the assembly by early this evening. I don't mind if you folks out there building the Easy Vee want to post your progress in this thread, by all means, it will only help us all!!!


I will be a little slow on things due to the fact I am a paramedic and work every third day(24 hours on/48 hours off), so bare with me! =]

Thanks!

Joe Petro

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the kind words!

Looking forward to seeing this.
We can also answer any questions here.

Joe Petro

medic6115

Thanks Joe! Great Kit, I will keep you posted and yes I will direct questions I may have about it to you.

Doubledog

My Feedback: (48)

Alright. Get on with this bugger and show us how its done. I'm waiting on Joe to get done with the new Hydro kit so I could definitly use some wood working lessons.

rcm243

Could someone give me a few addresses where I can find a good boat kit, I`ve heard that the zip kit is a good choice.
I`ve had a lot of years experience in fiber glass work and drag boat building {the full size} so covering a wood kit won`t be a problem. thanks RCM

Doubledog

My Feedback: (48)

Just for you. These kits are hard to beat. I've got a Whip on order and they're sumpthing FAST Not to take anything away from Joe, but I've got one of his new Hydro's on order as well.

[link=http://zippkits.com/]Zipp Kits[/link]

[link=http://www.blazermarine.com/]Blazer Marine... Home of the Whiplash Gas hydro[/link]

medic6115

Ok so I have the hull just about done. Everything went smoothly until I ran into the sheet application. Sides went on fine, then I do to the bottom sheets and for the life of me NOTHING would line up correctly. After sanding and planing, sading and planing, nothing would go right, then the damn sheets would pop off when I try to align them. To make a long story short, I have a LOT of gaps on the bottom of the hull that it would sink in 5 seconds if I put her in the water. =/

The gaps are the worst where the sides sheets meet the bottom and where the bottom meet together. My question is, what is the best thing to use to fill in the gaps? Would a lot of epoxy, fiberglass cloth, resin and sanding with filler do the job or is there another technique I can use? I am pretty frustrated because I just hope this isnt a lost cause now. She looks great otherwise.


Oh and my bottoms overlap a little over the sides, probably 1/8 inch if that. I guess this is normal and im supposed to plane them and sand.

Mike

Joe Petro

My Feedback: (1)

Mike,

Sorry to hear of your problems.
In the instructions it spells out very clearly how to properly fit the bottom halves.
Here is a quote from the [link=http://www.zippkits.com/evman.pdf]Easy Vee manual[/link];

"Match the angle of the bulkheads. Also, lightly sand half of the keel at the same time, so that the bottom sheet lays flat on the structure. Do not change the shape of the keel, just match the angle.
The keel will have a slight “V� shape when you are done.
Be very careful not to sand the keel too much, or the bottom will not fit!"

Is this the cause?

We have sold hundreds of the Easy Vee kits, and this is the first time that anyone has mentioned an issue.
Is it possible that the kit had the wrong bottom sheets?
Either way, let us know if you want another kit, and we will send you one, free of charge.

Thanks,

Joe Petro

medic6115

Hi Joe,

I was just out in the garage contemplating whether I should just order another kit from you due to the fact this may be more of a headache trying to fix than just starting from scratch. The boat looks good its just there is so much space im afraid it just wont come out right. I think the biggest problem is trying to make sure the keel and stringers are perfect so the sheets go on correctly. I swore up and down they looked fine. I appreciate the offer of replacing it, thats aqfully generous. I really dont mind paying for it again either though. Still beats buying a 300+ dollar hull. But yeah I think I am going to start over.

medic6115

Well, it turns out I may have had a defect or something, but Joe was nice enough to just come out and say he is sending another kit. I did not expect this, so another reason why I would continue to buy kits from him in the future, customer service is outstanding! So I have to wait a few more days and by then I should have all my radio, and rudder system, exhaust system and clutch assembly by then.

More to come from this rookie soon lol.

martno1fan

sorry to hear of your problems mate you did install the bottom sheets the correct way round didnt you?.the edge with the curved front edge goes to the keel and the straighter edge to the outside,justa thought .

sowega flyer

Medic,
One thing to realize about building with wood is that patience is the key, and it will pay off in the end. Dry test fit everything before you even think about glue. (use clamps and tape if you have to) The bottom sheets are especially important to test fit- if they dont fit exactly right, sand some more. Never sand too much- just a little at a time. Like I said- patience is the key here.
One other thing- if you need to fill some gaps, get some 30 minute epoxy and some micro-ballons- it works great and its easy to sand.



Jason

medic6115

I made sure things looked good when setting them dry, but there seemed to be way too much gap and overlap on the sides when I actually applied them. If this thing takes me a year so be it, but this is gonna get done right! [8D]

martno1fan

When you come to join the bottom sheets try hot glue ,just tack it here and there till its held firm then mix your epoxy and epoxy the seems thats how i do my wood boats and it makes things easy.Another trick is once you are happy things are gonna fit is glue the keel together upto the curve then let it set and then try to bend the curve that way things dont spring apart .

medic6115

Never thought of the hot glue gun. Might have to try that! I didnt think hot glue was that strong! I will keep that tip in mind.

cwaterhunter

or a staple gun,,i did that witn mine,, on borron and top sheathing.... after glue is day pry them out,, very small holds it fill with wood puddy,,,

shadows2013

I built mine following the EXACT instructions with the kit and used what they said to use when putting on the bottom sheets . tape , clips and wieght . i will upload some pictures in a bit , the site wont let me at the moment

shadows2013

worked this time

cyclesoul

nice hatch! very tidy work

Joe Petro

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, excellent job on the hull and hatch!
It gives the EV a whole different look!

Joe Petro

martno1fan

Hot glue is strong enough but its only to hold things while you epoxy it ,ive also use brads and a nail gun also zip ties threaded through small holes and pulled tight to pull things together once epoxy is set cut ties and pull out then fill the holes all good tips for building from wood.def works better than tape .

medic6115

Hey Joe,

I have been reading your manual over and over to make sure I have every little detail right and I found one area which I need clarified.

On Page 12, at the bottom it states:

Clamp and adjust the sheeting so that it overhangs
an equal amount on the top and bottom. Leave a
little hanging off of bulkhead 5 as well.
When it looks good, make a reference mark
somewhere that is easy to see. I make it between 3
and 4.

Does this mean overhang at the nose and transom? Reason why I ask is because in the picture the side sheets look FLUSH with the keel, nose and stringers(page 13 second picture). Does this mean that the side sheets should be flush from front to the transom on the stringers? I just want to make sure that everything is right before I start the one coming in the mail. Thanks!
Mike

powerroller

Center it so there is pretty much equal overhang.You will need to trim it all later in the build.
Second pic on page 13 is after is had been trimmed,about ready for bottom sheeting.

shadows2013

can anyone tell me what ill need to finish my drive . Im getting ready to mount my homlite and i want to use the flex shaft from the weed wacker , its a square drive and fits the motor . I have a stinger with a 1/4 bushing in it . Now what do i need to connect to the flex shaft to drive the prop and also fit in the stinger . does this make sense?

martno1fan

im not sure but i dont think you can use that flex with a stinger as you need a ferrule to join the flex to a stainles steel shaft ,on a strut setup we have room between the transom and strut, on a stinger you dont although ive never used a stinger thats how i understand it maybe someone can confirm that or not?.my betting is get a flex and shaft thats allready joined together (welded) you can buy them ready made in square or round ended flexes.dont forget with a square flex you need some kind of shaft saver between the motor and the stuffing tube.heres a link to the kind i mean.dont order it though as its a right lay one they seem to be out of left lay(standard) these are aeromarine ones so try another source.you also need a thrust washer and drive dog to put on the shaft and attach the prop then a prop nut holds it on.shaft saver can be another drive dog between engine and stuffing tube or a piece of silicone tube slid onto the flex.
[link]http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/24-1-4-OCTURA-OC8SQR-24A-Flex-Cable-Square-Right-Lay_W0QQitemZ6067391413QQihZ006QQcategoryZ34058QQt cZphotoQQcmdZViewItem[/link]