rc10gt-RCU

I am building my first Factory Team RC10GT and I decided to go with the o.s. .12 cv-r motor. Upon installing the MIP 4in1 clutch and then the clutch bell I notice that if I turn the clutch bell by hand I don't see the piston moving up and down through the exhaust hole. If I turn the flywheel by hand I can see it move but it becomes hard to turn at top dead center. Is this because I haven't run the engine yet and it needs to be broke in? I want to make sure before i fire it up. Also will the clutch bell quit spinning around my clutch once the engine is running? Thanks to all those that reply.

jeeptuff

sounds like the clutch is fine, remember the clutch is engaged through centrifugal force. As for the piston being tight at the top, this is normal. You can get a blow dryer and heat the head just prior to starting your engine, the heat will expand the metal just enough to make it a bit easier for the piston to travel. After you run your engine, right after shut down roll the flywheel by hand till the piston is NOT at the top, this could prevent the piston getting stuck at the top of the sleeve. If it does get stuck the use the hair dryer on the head to "unstick it". This may sound confusing and i apologize if it is, but i only had like 30 seconds to respond and I'm off to work...

slodsm

My Feedback: (1)

In simple terms, it is doing what it is supposed to do. If it were engaged all the time, when you hit the brakes, the motor would die.

rc10gt-RCU

Thanks for the replies. I had a feeling that's what was going on but I wanted to make sure. Thanks again.

gkb

have you broken in your cv-r yet? I am thinking about putting one in a xxx-nt. did you get a slide carb or the rotary carb?

da king

My Feedback: (5)

If you guys are going to run the cv-r in a truck your gonna need a carb restrictor. That motor is a on/off switch. The restrictor will give it a power band that you can use.

No it wont slow you down. The motor is just as fast, just smoother. Hope this helps.

Fast Guy

The CV-r 12 & 15 are both great engines although the CV-r15 has too much power for racing and it's not legal anyway. My son and I have worn out 4 CV-r12's between us racing (3-4 gallons of fuel each) and the engines have proved to be very reliable and easy to tune. If you run them lean (260-280 degrees) they run like da king says a "on-off switch" We run a touch on the rich side (200-220 degrees)which gives them a nice power band, extends engine life and still has more than enough power for the track we race on.

I like that paint job da king. Do you mind if I copy it?

da king

My Feedback: (5)

sure go ahead. Btw....I run the motor at 210 to 230 with trinty 20%. Theres a couple of factory drivers around here so we need a little power. hehehe. Plus you get the fuel milage when above 220.

tallyrc

instead of replacing those cv-r pistons and sleeves, have you ever considered having them pinched?? i just sent off 2 .15 cv's and 1 .12. the guy has some process where he squeezes them and from the tons of posative feedback he gets on ebay it is apparently very successful. check it out on ebay under gas stuff or just search of pistons and sleeves. he goes by name "osrocket"
i'll let you know how mine works. i figure for only $25 for the first and 15 for each after that i have nothing to lose.

gkb

Let us know how that works tallyrc. I've read about it in other forums as well and it seems like it works pretty good.

tallyrc

i'm pretty excited, i just sent 3 pistons in, and it will cost LESS than 1 new piston and sleeve for my .15. that is value. he has done it like 130 time on ebay alone, and not 1 complaint.

tallyrc

i just wanted to keep everyone posted on my newly resized piston and sleeves. i got them back yesterday (tuesday) installed them last night and only got to fire one up today but so far so good. it was damn tight at top dead center and i see why he suggests replacing the con rod and wrist pin after about 10 tanks. i am going to run it this sunday. i will post again as to how it performs, but i can say this. it was very bad before, and it ran very promisingly tonight, so.. so far so good!!!

Nitro TC3

The OS small engines are not a good choice, try to use a Novarossi or RB engines, those will give U, more HP and RPM response.

Besides, if U make some modifications to the factory engine, U will have, better results, start with remove the pull start and change the head like the O'Donell's.

Just ask the hobby dealer about Ur conserns.

Fast Guy

I think you are thinking of the OS CV series engines. We were talking about the CV-r series which have power more like the Novarossi or RB engines.

nitroman88

My Feedback: (5)

well ill be liking my o.s. .12 cv-r once it warm enough to break it in. i tried breaking it in at 10 degress F and no such luck the engine will not run worth crap at this temp. i can grip the cylinder head for like 20 seconds without it even getting hot. the heads on these things are massive. As we all no running a nitro engien for the first time in extremely cold weather isnt doing it any good. I managed to break a clucth nut and flywheel in the procces because of fuel load up. It most likely just the cold air but it was a pain to tune. hopefully i can get it dialed in this spring.

Nitro TC3

Well, everything just like the real cars, is U like japanese engine that's well for you, but italian's have more to give, just compare.
the OS CV-R engine with Mugen Novarossi MT-12, 1.15 HP and 36,500 rpm, nobody have this bechmarks on the market.

It's like to compare Ferrari with a japanese cars, lol,.

Just go and ask for specs for each engine and u will see that the OS do not reach european engines like Novarossi.

OS is incredible in engines of .21 like RZ or VZ. but in smaller sizes is not believable.

grampi

I think your opinion tends to be the exception, not the rule.

i8tweety

My Feedback: (11)

As far as comparing specs between manufacturers, don't bother. There is no standardized method of rating them. Nitro content, oil content, various fuel additives, ambient temperature, testing in an artificially oxygen rich environment, engine temp at peak horsepower, exhaust system used, and estimated time to engine detination at current settings are all things that manufacturers can play with to create their numbers. No 2 manufacturers rate their engines under the same conditions. They do not send them out for independent lab testing.

If you check out any race results in r/c car publications, you will see a wide range of engines were used in the A-main. This is because too much power is too much power and driver skill takes over. The CV-R is overkill. So is the Mugen. So is the RB. So is the...

cool head

i agree with tweety. the hp number are marketing gimmics. race results prove i't

how can you have too much power? your just giving it too much throttle!

i8tweety

My Feedback: (11)

Too much power is putting a hemi in a golf cart.

BUGGIES_R_US

LOL a hemi in a golf cart! check out my 452 Golf Cuda baby!
Yeah I agree.. I dont think theres such a thing as "too much power"
if you do.. reduce your clutch bell with something which has one more T!!
-ram

BUGGIES_R_US

Check this out:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=34062
I'm in love with that engine..
Any comments on it?!
Eek what was this thread about again?!
sorry..sidetracked!
-ram

grampi

I can see the possibility of having to much power for racing, but in my case, which is back yard bashing, there is no such thing.