Installing Canopies
#1
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Installing Canopies
I'm finishing up two winter build projects - both calling for my first-time attempts at installing
clear plastic canopies. Having messed one up royally, I obviously need some advice.
1. One method: traced outline of canopy (which does not have flange materal)
then made a 'groove' in the balsa , filled the groove with CA gel. and set the canopy in the groove.
turned out a mess, and left gaps, which I'm sure are going to let in oily exhaust and
smudge up the interior. Attempts to run a bead of clear adhesive (like caulking) around the perimeter
only made it worse.
2. Have a .40 Funtana with a cool tinted canopy - with a good wide flange. & would like to
mount it so that it will seal out oily exhaust - but not look like it was just gooped on with
glue. One tip is to use small wood screws an inch or so apart, but fear that this method
will not seal interior against exhaust and slipstream gunk. Is there an ultra flexible tape
to run around the perimeter to seal it? Anybody tried a tiny bead of silicone?
Will welcome any tips / suggestion / techniques / products
Thanks
ecp
clear plastic canopies. Having messed one up royally, I obviously need some advice.
1. One method: traced outline of canopy (which does not have flange materal)
then made a 'groove' in the balsa , filled the groove with CA gel. and set the canopy in the groove.
turned out a mess, and left gaps, which I'm sure are going to let in oily exhaust and
smudge up the interior. Attempts to run a bead of clear adhesive (like caulking) around the perimeter
only made it worse.
2. Have a .40 Funtana with a cool tinted canopy - with a good wide flange. & would like to
mount it so that it will seal out oily exhaust - but not look like it was just gooped on with
glue. One tip is to use small wood screws an inch or so apart, but fear that this method
will not seal interior against exhaust and slipstream gunk. Is there an ultra flexible tape
to run around the perimeter to seal it? Anybody tried a tiny bead of silicone?
Will welcome any tips / suggestion / techniques / products
Thanks
ecp
#2
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RE: Installing Canopies
Here is the method that an old time builder gave me and it seems to work satisfactorily-installing canopies is challenging.
First off on most canopies there is a light scribed line above the flange. Trim the canopy close to this line and then drag it on a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface, until it is flat-if fuse is not flat you will have to sand it on the plane to get correct contour. Position canopy in correct position and mark. Use a T pin to stick holes in covering just inside the line all around the perimeter. This allows the glue to penetrate down to balsa but holes will not show once canopy is installed. I use Formula 560 canopy glue, it is white but dries clear. It holds once dry but takes 24 hours to completely cure. Put a small bead of glue on edges of canopy, keeping the bead to inside if possible. Position canopy and use masking tape to hold in position until the glue dries. Easy clean up with a Q tip and water. Get all excess off, it dries clear but leaves a film on monocote. Make sure you have a good fit before gluing, don't try to use the masking tape to pull canopy in position. Wild horses can't pull one off if its done correctly and you will get a good seal all around the perimeter. Various shapes of canopies may require some variation from this method, but you get the general concept of installation. Good Luck.
First off on most canopies there is a light scribed line above the flange. Trim the canopy close to this line and then drag it on a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface, until it is flat-if fuse is not flat you will have to sand it on the plane to get correct contour. Position canopy in correct position and mark. Use a T pin to stick holes in covering just inside the line all around the perimeter. This allows the glue to penetrate down to balsa but holes will not show once canopy is installed. I use Formula 560 canopy glue, it is white but dries clear. It holds once dry but takes 24 hours to completely cure. Put a small bead of glue on edges of canopy, keeping the bead to inside if possible. Position canopy and use masking tape to hold in position until the glue dries. Easy clean up with a Q tip and water. Get all excess off, it dries clear but leaves a film on monocote. Make sure you have a good fit before gluing, don't try to use the masking tape to pull canopy in position. Wild horses can't pull one off if its done correctly and you will get a good seal all around the perimeter. Various shapes of canopies may require some variation from this method, but you get the general concept of installation. Good Luck.
#3
Senior Member
RE: Installing Canopies
There is an excellent canopy glue that's easy to use and works great. It's called canopy glue. Yeah, canopy glue.
It's in a small bottle and looks somewhat like white glue. Matter of fact, it handles just about exactly like white glue. However, when it dries it turns clear and is almost invisible.
You run a bead that you think will adequately fill and possibly extrude extra to the outside. When you lay the canopy on, press it down and any glue that squeezes to the outside is very easily wiped away with a damp paper towel. The glue will provide a decent tackiness that'll almost hold the canopy itself. But I usually use a couple of strips of masking tape to make sure.
After about a half day, I pull the masking tape and use striping tape to cover the outside joint line. Makes a very nice job of it.
I've also used the stuff along the horizontal stab to fuselage seam, and of course along the vertical stab to fuselage seam also. It seals those seams perfectly. When it dries it's basically clear. It keeps out any exhaust residue that might flow back down the fuse and into the seams. It's dead simple to do and takes no time at all. I used to iron on a strip of Ultracote over those seams but had some trouble when two colors came together. No trouble with the glue since it dries clear and see through.
It and hinge glue have turned two pita jobs into troublefree minor efforts.
It's in a small bottle and looks somewhat like white glue. Matter of fact, it handles just about exactly like white glue. However, when it dries it turns clear and is almost invisible.
You run a bead that you think will adequately fill and possibly extrude extra to the outside. When you lay the canopy on, press it down and any glue that squeezes to the outside is very easily wiped away with a damp paper towel. The glue will provide a decent tackiness that'll almost hold the canopy itself. But I usually use a couple of strips of masking tape to make sure.
After about a half day, I pull the masking tape and use striping tape to cover the outside joint line. Makes a very nice job of it.
I've also used the stuff along the horizontal stab to fuselage seam, and of course along the vertical stab to fuselage seam also. It seals those seams perfectly. When it dries it's basically clear. It keeps out any exhaust residue that might flow back down the fuse and into the seams. It's dead simple to do and takes no time at all. I used to iron on a strip of Ultracote over those seams but had some trouble when two colors came together. No trouble with the glue since it dries clear and see through.
It and hinge glue have turned two pita jobs into troublefree minor efforts.
#4
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RE: Installing Canopies
Thanks so much, 'flipstart' and 'darock'
As I have come to expect from this RCU group, good solid advice
and helpful suggestions.
I'll repair and re-cover the mess..... and try again.
ecp
As I have come to expect from this RCU group, good solid advice
and helpful suggestions.
I'll repair and re-cover the mess..... and try again.
ecp
#5
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RE: Installing Canopies
ecp: I just attached a canopy to my Sig Four Star 60 airplane. I am a beginner builder but using Formula 560 was idiot proof. I laid a small bead of glue inside the canopy and then pushed it down into place. I then put lots of masking tape to hold it and left it alone for 24 hours. When I removed the masking tape, it was a perfect job. There was a tiny bit of overflow of the glue that had squeezed out. It was clear, but it also rolled up in a ball when I rubbed it with my finger and was easy to remove. I glued directly over Ultracote with no preparation done to the covering. No sanding, no pin ***** holes, nothing.