ZB50

Hi all.

I have a first run (as far as I know Saito FA-65. It was a gift from my (EX) mother in law many moons ago. (it cost 135.00 from Tower Hobbies) I have not used it in a plane for 10 years. I have however, run it on my test stand regularly and it still starts and runs very good. (after run oil,,,etc,,,) I tached it today and it swang a MAS 13-6 to 10K. (10% cool power 4 stroke fuel. This engine is easy to start and throttle response is excellent. It has the original bearings and I see no problem with them. I even have a FOX 4 cycle plug installed. I like to fly 3D and sport planes these days. I had a hope to one day put 2 of these in a C-47. I realize it is heavier than the new sizes.

What would YOU do?


I am simply looking for opinions and all replys are welcome unless you are smart a@$ wanting to get yuk!

Thanks,,






ZB

DualdudE

Friend of mine has it too. It's a great engine. If it provides enough power...i'd say keep it and use it

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

ZB:

It's a POS. You should throw it away, and not insult anyone by offering it to them. You should be ashamed to admit you have it.

To ease your embarrassment, and in a truly generous offer to help you, I will allow you to send it to me. And being really, truly, cooperative, I'll even pay the postage.

All kidding aside, it's an excellent engine, still in production, and 99 out of 7 users are tickled pink with it.

Fly it, and enjoy it.

Bill.

Razor-RCU

My Feedback: (50)

Yup- Keep it! I have had 2 and I loved them... It is heavier than the Saito-72 but it is FREE!

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

A friend has one on a UCD 46, about the age of yours. It does real well, hovers the plane with little effort and is a very sweet engine to deal with. No bad habits, it is inverted with a Perry Pump. Keep it!!!!!

car4az

I have one installed in a UCD 46. Did the first flight yesterday, it was awful. (The flight, not necessarily the engine) Luckily I got the plane back in one piece. (Just a reminder, do not try the first flight with 3D rates on) I am having problems getting a smooth throttle response, and it idled very high. I am guessing everything is a little rich. Which Perry pump was used on the UCD?

Also, Bill, you don't happen to have an extra 65 carb lying around that you would be willing to give up for the right price? I can't get mine to close all the way.

Oh, I got my engine very cheap, have replaced the bearings and all of the rubber components. KEEP IT! It was running great upright, and I am sure will inverted with some tweaking. Vertical performance on the UCD seemed pretty great with a 13-4. Am considering a 14-4.

Chris

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Chris:

Sorry, no extra genuine Saito carb foran FA-65. but I do have several small Perry carbs, one of them could no doubt be adapted.

But the way you describe your engine run, you don't need a replacement carb anyway.

Can't close the throttle? There is either a small bit of trash in the throttle barrel groove for the idle screw, or you just need to back the idle speed screw out further.

Put the engine on a stand, or turn the plane over so the engine is upright. Do whatever you need to get the throttle to shut fully. Start it, peak the high speed, then get the idle as low as you can with the throttle. Slowly turn the idle needle in, to go lean. You will find you can peak it just like the high speed. When you have the highest rpm you can get with the needle adjustment, drop the idle speed again with the throttle, go as slow as you can. Do the needle bit again. Go back to full throttle. You may have to open the HS needle to get it to come up. Peak the HS again, then recheck the idle. After they are both peaked, and the idle speed is down around 2000-2200 rpm with the13x4, go back to full, peak it, then go rich to your 300-400 rpm rich drop. Back to idle for 30 seconds or so, then slam it to full throttle. Clean acceleration, you're finished. Rpm falls and then picks up, or even dead engine, richen the idle just a hair. Rpm staysthe same but the engine blubbers before increasing rpm, lean the idle a hair.

When all this is done, turn the plane back over, or remount the engiine. If the tank is well placed there should be little or no change in the engine run. If there is just a minor change, go through the carb adjustments again. If there's a major change you have a tank problem, you'll need to correct it before the engine will really run well.

Regardless, the first thing is to find out why you can't close the throttle. Another possibility is that the servo is set wrong, and it doesn't have enough travel to close it all the way. Disconnect the throttle link, see if it will then close.

This should be enough to get you going. More problems/questions just ask.

Bill.

car4az

Bill,
I will try that with the engine. I know it is not the screw for the carb, as it is almost completely out. I will pull the carb off and check it out. If I have to resort to a pump, which one???
Thanks for the help,
Chris

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Chris:

Really can't see your needing a pump, but if you want one my choice is the Perry VP-30, the vacuum/pressure pulse operated one. Run the crankcase vent hose to a tee, and the srtaight leg to the pump. Put the normal crankcase vent line on the 90 degree leg. You might have to play with the length of the vent line to get it right, generally about 3.5" to 4" works.

If you will accept an alternative, a demand regulator such as the Cline or Iron Bay will work well. More expensive than the Perry, but the engine is easier to set up.

Bill.

car4az

Bill,
Got the carb to close all the way, it was a little tight, but seems to work alright now. The throttle arm moves around the aluminum piece that connects to the carb. I am not sure how to fix. I think I will order up a new throttle arm as the holes in the arm itself are much worn. I will have to use the test stand tomorrow.
Thanks for all the help.
Chris

William Robison

My Feedback: (3)

Chris:

If yours is early enough to have the metal throttle arm, it is attached to an aluminum ring, and the ring is held to the barrel with a set screw on the side. Find the set screw, loosen it and pull the arm off. With it off you can use a small hammer to tighten the h8ub where it holds the arm. Also, wash it in acetone or similar, and you can put a drop of CA between the steel arm and the aluminum hub.

If you have the plastic arm, it has a metal liner with the same set screw. The plastic may have turned to cover the screw, just twist it around until you see the screw, loosen it and pull the arm. Take the set screw out completely, and find a longer screw that will reach all the way to the outside of the plastic and use that for reassembly. The body of the screw reaching through the plastic part will keep it from slipping.

Have fun.

Bill.

car4az

Bill,
Mine is early enough for the metal arm. I will tap it with the hammer, and use the ca.
Thanks again,
Chris