da Rock

Another thread asked about the best glue to use to glue in Dubro hinges. I posted there that I'd just started a test of some new glue that is labeled "Hinge Glue".

Well, the test is done. The stuff looks like excellent glue for hinging.

I used some Klett hinges and some Dubro and some old "solid nylon" that were shaped like CA hinges but were just some kind of plastic/nylon. I cut slits for all three so I could do a pull out test. I also simply glued one flat of each hinge down on a flat of balsa to do a pull apart test.

The glue holds absolutely to the pull out test. I pulled the balsa apart trying to pull all three hinge types out of the glued in slots. The instructions on the glue bottle say you can "handle in 30 minutes". I'm guessing they said "handle" to suggest that the glue isn't completely cured and you should wait some time or somesuch. But what the heck, I was just testing. So I gave the glue 30 minutes and tried to pull the hinges out. They didn't come close to pulling out. Not a millimeter. Nothing. So I did another 3 into slots and gave them overnight to cure. Same thing.

The flat to flat test was also done this morning after letting the glue cure overnight. It was obviously cured where it was exposed to the air and appeared to be cured underneath. All the flats pulled away, but it took a very strong pull for all three. The Dubro and Klett have holes drilled through them. Where the glue had squished up through the holes, that glue did it's best to hold the flats together. After getting separation, I tried to pull the glue from the balsa in the same direction I'd pulled the hinges. The glue had penetrated the balsa and all I did was wreck the balsa.

This stuff seems to be about as strong holding nylon as epoxy is. But there are a couple of MAJOR positive values of this glue over epoxy. This glue is dead easy to use. I used the fine tube "dispenser" that they recommend and it insures the glue goes into the slot. And it goes in easily! And the best deal is that any that squeezes out when you push the hinge into the slot (and you DO WANT that to happen to insure you've got good coverage inside) is very easy to wipe away. Epoxy doesn't wipe worth spit. And the epoxy that does invade the hinge part is a pain to deal with. If I flex the hinge a couple of times while in the 30 minutes this stuff doesn't do squat to the flexibility.

This stuff is GOOD.

TLH101

My Feedback: (90)

I discovered this stuff a couple of years ago, and have used it since. Works well on Robarts pin hinges as well.

da Rock

"Years ago" ..... chuckle.....

I been out of RC for years. It's been great fun discovering what I missed while away.

BTW, the stuff I'm talking about is made by PACER, or at least sold by them. It comes in a little unassuming 1 oz bottle and was only $2.50 at my LHS. I've been looking at it for the last 3 months and figuring it was a rip, that stuff like that, that looked like Elmers wouldn't work worth spit on nylon. It says it bonds virtually all hinge material and that sounded like advertising BS. Truth is, I don't think it bonds the hinges I got any better than epoxy does over time, but that ain't half bad.

I figure my next ARF that comes with CA hinges slipping around in precut slots will see Dubro hinges and this glue. Using the nylon hinges and this glue actually ought to take less time than trying to sort out the CA hinges and getting enough CA to wick into the slots and not down the hingeline or into my lap and keeping the CA hinges from sliding off center. And the Dubros won't have the CA stiffness at all. win win win

3dd

My Feedback: (6)

PROBOND OR ULTIMATE GLUE IS THE SAMETHING,GO TO HOMEDEPOT FOR 4 DOLLAR FOR 8 OZ

flapper

Hi,
Have been using the Pacer Hinge glue with great success. Good product especially as you can squirt right into the hinge slot with the nozzle supplied or use one of the Zap ones as it will fit the same bottle.

I also roughen up the Dubro nylon hinges with light grade sandpaper similar to what you would do when using epoxy glues/resins.

One of best attributes of this product is that it you can clean up with water!!! Don't have to buy alcohol or acetone for the epoxy!! To date I have not had a problem with the glue locking up the pin in the hinge. I thoroughly clean with a damp tissue/cloth during the drying time.

flapper

Hit the enter key by mistake..........

I also use small pins as an extra securing device for added strength. Pics below are from my plan built P47D running Magnum 120FS.

da Rock

Just a small suggestion.... Pin users are relying on the balsa that's between the pin and the hinge line to be their added security. Since a nylon hinge is VERY strong compared to balsa, you can put the pin almost at the very back of the hinge and still have way more strength from what's left of the hinge than you have from the balsa. So the best position for the pin is toward the back of the hinge.

pettit

My Feedback: (23)

Sorry, but ProBond or Ultimate (Gorilla) glue is NOT the same as Pacer Hinge Glue.

Let me say further that while they are both great adhesives, they are not the same type of glues.

ProBond and Gorilla use moisture to foam and expand as they cure, filling in the open spaces. This is great for wood to wood joints but you have to be careful that you don't put too much in a hinge slot because it'll foam out at the hinge pivot point and ruin the hinge action.

Pacer Hinge Glue just cures to it's original size. It may expand the wood around the hinge a little causing a tight fit, but it does not foam up at all.