mendezgustavo11

Hello my Friends

I just bought a Pilot RC 26% (30cc) Extra 330SC, i am using digital high toque, high voltage MKS servos, with a DLE-35 Engine, using a Spektrum Receiver AR-9350.

I have a lot of confusion on how to set up my receiver-Ignition Batteries ext. Do I need a power box?, Do i need dual battery for receiver? what kind of batteries for receiver or for ignition and how much capacity?, at the moment i bought a 5A regulator for the ignition and 3 heavy duty JR Switched considering ignition battery and two receivers batteries

Any recommendation would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
Gustavo

TexasFlash

I have a new to me 50cc 88" version of this plane. It was setup with an Ibec for the ignition set at 5.5v and Savox 1286 (1268?) HVs with a Spektrum 8 channel. I run it on twin 2s 2200 lipos, twin switches, no regulators, and the Ibec fed from receiver channel 5. In only a couple of 10 minute flights it seems to be using approx 400ma per flight but this hasn't been an exact test yet. I consider a 30 size the line between single versus dual battery setups and if your HV setup has a high draw as I suspect I'd have to go with dual batts of at least 1000 each and watch them closely. One or 2 normal flights then charge to verify how much was used. Some gas engines are rated for HV and if yours is as well as all servos you can leave the regulator off. No need for a power box as I see it. Many 2.4 systems run the ignition straight off the receiver if using an rcxel or ibec kill setup. All of my gassers use the channel 5 for ignition power as well as ignition control with 4 20s on modified rcxel units (per factory instructions included with each) running on Life 6.6v packs plus the one ibec unit mentioned on 7.4 lipos. Zero interference out of any of them. Zero regulator, power boxes or other gizmos.

rlytle

Gustavo,

I'm sure you will get lots of advice on this subject. My personal choice for this size model is using a single switch and single battery. I use a heavy duty switch that should it fail will fail in the on position (Fromeco). I am using a 2600ma LIFE battery. I use an IBEC (ignition battery eliminator circuit) to power the ignition from the receiver. That way you can set up a switch on the transmitter to kill the engine. I have found with the high torque servos that I am using I average 100ma usage per flight. I can easily do ten 10minute flights without over discharging my battery. No regulators or power box needed with this setup. You still need to check how much battery usage you have after a couple of flights by recharging the battery. I would not discharge the battery past about half of the battery capacity.


You could use two receiver batteries and two switches for a more redundant set up. However without using some sort of batt share circuitry you still risk the possibility of a shorted battery discharging the good battery. You could also use a separate switch and battery to power the ignition. I would still want a way to shut off the engine from the transmitter so you would need a optical kill switch. I do use that setup on 50cc planes. Good luck with whatever method you choose.

Ray

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

A lot of guys are using a single LiFe pack (A123 brand is the hands down favorite). Here's some thoughts I wrote for a similar question a while back.

The plan is to get as much power as you have available out to your servos. With one switch feeding power to the receiver, you have a potential big bottleneck in the path from the battery to the receiver. Maybe not the switch itself, but surely in the size of the wire and the connectors.

If you add a second switch you can double the original capacity of that original single switch - AND - kill any anxiety caused by a single switch powering the receiver. Erratic/bad switches is very likely the #1 problem when it comes to actual equipment failure bringing down a plane.

You would power the second switch with a second power lead from the battery. Easy to add if you solder, and 2 power lead batteries are becoming easier and easier to get already made up for you.

If you don't have room on the receiver to plug a second power lead in (coming from the second switch), you can accomplish the same thing using a "Y" harness in the line between the receiver and any of the servos. I generally use the rudder servo as it's the biggest, or if not, it's the one that will likely be pulling the most amount of power. Plugged into a Y like this gives it a straight shot to the battery during periods of high demand, without having to go tthough the receiver (another bonus).

This plan is well proven, light, cheap, simple, offers total power redundancy from the battery to the receiver and doubles the amperage available to the flight pack. No known down side. -Al