Jim_Purcha

My Feedback: (8)

Does anyone know of an alternative filler on fibreglass or wood surfaces which spreads as easy as spot putty but doesn't have the affects on the nervous system (darn, there's that twitch again).

Jim

DavidAgar

My Feedback: (108)

On wood I use a product called Paint N Patch, which I get at the Home Depot. On fiberglass I use Bondo for filling cracks and pin holes. Good Luck, Dave

dhal22

i've been using evercoat but i don't think that will help you. what about superfil? i researched it but settled on evercoat due to being available locally. are you using this on raw balsa? i have seen threads where builders use lightweight drywall mud to skim the entire fuse. it was sanded off until only the flaws were filled. apparently the resin bleeding through during the fiberglass application soaks into the mud and hardens it.

i've also tried watering down the lightweight balsa filler and painting my fuse with it; of course sanding it off after drying but that won't fix bigger flaws.

david

Jim_Purcha

My Feedback: (8)

Hi David, it's the consistency of the light weight balsa fillers I'm not happy with. I've tried watering it down to help. Sometimes I use DAP coloured light splacking (changes colour as it dries). I was informed from a local napa store that the Canadian government has restricted the retail sale of spot putty. It's availability is to auto body shops. Most likely trying to protect the public use by individuals which might not have proper safety equipment. I'm using the spot putty to fill some epoxy glass reinforcement on a model. It goes on heavy but I'll sand 98% of it off the surface.

Jim

martyg

My Feedback: (42)

Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler works great for me. http://www.redhillgeneralstore.com/A40266.htm
Thin with water to the consistency of ketchup before applying.
Much better than the latex based "lightweight" fillers.

This product reportedly works well for filling pinholes in fiberglass. (I haven't had a chance to try this yet)
http://www.darrolcady.com/Accessorie...nting_faq.html

I would not recommend using automotive spot putty on bare wood. (Dries too hard, toxic solvents)

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I also use Elmer's Carpenter's Wood Filler. Best stuff I have found - and i have tried them all

Jim_Purcha

My Feedback: (8)

Elmer's carpenter wood filler is readily available from Rona or Home Depot. It's inexpensive, I'll have to give this a try. I think I might have some at home. Maybe I didn't try watering it down enough.

Jim

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I don't water it down, although sometimes it may need a few drops of water to loosen it up a little.

Something that is nice is that because it IS water soluable, after applying it you can smooth it out with a wet finger.

Take a look at my most recent use of it:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8045758

Roby

I use z-poxy finishing resin and micro balloons.
Lite,very strong,sands easy

Regards,
Roby

daven

My Feedback: (1)

Superfill works great (from aircraft spruce), however, it takes a long time to dry. Evercoat works well also, dries to a sandable form in under 20 minutes, but is expensive, and heavy. I like the bondo glazing putty (red stuff), works well, easy to shape with a wet finger, and sands nice. Never had any luck with the light weight spackels, plus it falls out of fiberglass pinholes when wetsanding the primer...

How quick does the Elmers wood putty dry? and does it work on fiberglasss?

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Dave, I've never used it on Fiber Glass, so I can't say.

as for drying time, like anything it depends on how thick it's laid and temp/humidity, but the Fillets in this pic dried completely over night:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=8045758

Thin applications are dry in about 1/2 hour

Jim_Purcha

My Feedback: (8)

It's the Bondo Glazing Putty, I'm looking for an alternative too. The instructions say don't breath it, get it on clothing or skin. So I don't want to be shaping it with a wet finger. But, yes it does apply nice to the epoxy glass surface.

I'll probably try the Elmer's on a different project (it's only half as toxic).

Maybe some of the hobby manufacturers can work on some new putty material which applies like icing, environmentaly friendly and not toxic to my health. Don't expect to get this from China though.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Half as toxic? Hell, I put that stuff on my cereal in the morning

Jim_Purcha

My Feedback: (8)

I found my container of Minwax Wood Filler. Scooped out a couple of teaspoons and diluted it down to a much more workable paste. I think this will work. Have to remember this for the next model.

Thanks guys.

Jim_Purcha

My Feedback: (8)

MinnFlyer, you should try the MinWax it comes in different favors ... I mean colors. Try maple.

Ed Smith

I use drywall compound. It sands as soft as balsa and is as cheap as it gets. For filling pinholes in glass surfaces I get a wet blob on my fingers and rub it in. Let it dry and sand it flush. It can be sanded only dry.

Ed S

dhal22

i've seen the opposite where users of evercoat claim the bondo spot putty is too heavy. i have both. i use the evercoat for larger areas before glass and the spot putty after glassing.

david

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

As far as weight is concerned, I used to be weight conscious too, so I tried some of those light-weight spackle compounds when they first hit the market. But when I saw that the heat from my covering iron was melting them, I went back to Elmer's.

The way I see it is: if you use so much filler that weight becomes a problem, you need to work on becoming a better builder

eugene

I also use the Elmers wood filler, mixed with two parts tube spackling paste. Comes out the same color as balsa, and sands easily...

daven

My Feedback: (1)

I suppose I should read the tube of glazing putty, thanks for the warning. I guess it will be a glove next time. Both the Evercoat and Bondo are heavy, when I'm doing something large its going to be the Super-Fil, really neat stuff and light.

wannabflyboy

My Feedback: (10)

One of the guys at my club recommended using the lightweight spackle, you know...the stuff for home owners that can't do drywall finishing. Much lighter than regular spackle and sands easily. It dents a little easily, but so does balsa.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

It also melts under the heat of a covering iron. I recommend that people avoid this stuff.

As I have said before, if you use so much filler that weight becomes an issue, you need to improve your building techniques.

dhal22

since i abhor monocote the iron won't be a problem, although i do use Koverall on open bays areas.

david

wannabflyboy

My Feedback: (10)

Not trying to start one of those "forum battles", but the stuff I'm talking about is water based and will not melt.
I agree that if you use enough filler that weight is is a problem then you need to look at your building skills, but anywhere weight can be saved is a bonus to me.