rcjim

Fiten, go ahead with the servo swap. The 2055 is Traxxas version of a high torque servo. Supposed to be about 70 oz's. Those big tires and 4wd need more than that. "all you can get" is how to approach this issue. 5 and 6 year olds driving it... with metal gears is recommended.
The "main" or "spur gear" runs on a "slipper clutch" and floats on hard rubber pegs. The run out "warp" you see is normal. Don't let this bother you. Also since these gears are injection molded you will find that every single one of them runs out. Some are worse then others.
When you opened the box, did you connect the blue wire to the glow plug? This wire has to be connected for the glow driver to work. If so, did you have a roll over? If you did, that can cause the wires inside the wire insulation to partly break. Since the truck ends up on its roof, the wire gets pinched. It is common to have to replace this wire often, depending on your driving habits . Other wise you have a problem with the hand held starting box.
Surprised you didn't have trouble getting it started since Traxxas dumps about 2 oz's of oil into the air filter. Take the foam element out and put into a paper towel and squeeze out the excess oil. I have also found that whatever kind of oil they use seems to screw up the glow plug if it gets into the combustion chamber.
The transmission takes time to loosen up. It's common for them to not want to shift from forward to reverse when new. You are correct on the idle speed. The engine will develop a better idle once it's broken in. You might have to adjust the carb barrel stop for a lower idle speed, after giving some time for things to loosen up.
Other than that, its just fix the broken parts. That will be body posts, front bumper, front bumper mounts, front bulk heads....hehe
Have fun.

Butch R

Fitenfyr, Hello You responded to my post on the EDC-2's, thanks. What I have done was delete the blue wire and the yellow ground and use a NiCd starter. IMO is, I think they reduced the voltage to much in the starter "box". I have had a whole lot better response with the NiCd starter especially when the truck is cold. My opinion is I would not use aluminum body posts. Aluminum body mount plates fine. I would prefer to break body posts all day long before I start breaking shock towers. I went all out and got the SM stage III Suspension with Dynamite bulkheads and various aluminum bumpers and mounts which I gave my son all the stock parts (A-Arms, Knuckles and Bearings, Shock towers, Bumper Mts, Bulkheads and all assc. hardware) so he can crash all he wants to. I encourage him to work on it himself so I don't have to worry about stripped out screws since we have a bunch of them now. Sort of like killing 2 birds with one stone. LOL.

Butch R

Butch R

Fitenfyer. With my short car experience I have learned since doing the aluminum upgrades is that they are fine to a point. What I mean is the fact that you start shearing screws instead of breaking parts. Espescially the bumper mounts. What I have done and I don't know what others have done when this occurs, is simply not use locktight on the bolts that have this problem with. It makes using an easyout even easier. What I do at work is use lefthanded drill bits that works great provided they are not seized but don't know if you can get them that small. It's a catch 22, run the risk of bolts coming loose or ruin a part because it is a pain in the rear to drill a small steel machine screw out of a aluminum body. Take care.

Butch R