knarF

Hi,

Im building a Globe Swift 30" parkflyer (earl stahl plan) and made the wing with ailerons.
Do any of you guys have some pictures on how to control the ailerons ?

Im thinking of pull pull with wires and a central servo (6 gram's) but cant seem to find picures on how to make such a system.

BEst regards,

Frank

RC-Captain

I have added flaps to a .40 trainer before, so in order for me to give you some ideas I would need to see the wing and would need to know how sturdy it will be when mounted .

Dave G

My Feedback: (1)

Frank, I did a Dumas stick and tissue conversion to electric like you're doing and added ailerons by using a single pico servo and made tiny bellcranks to each aileron with a wire push-rod. Sorry I don't have construction photos. I can try and desrcibe the system...

*The servo is mounted with a servo horn trimmed to have just one arm.

*The mount for the bellcrank is a square of 1/32" ply glued at an angle so the push-rod to the aileron control horn is lined up.

*The bellcrank is a 4 arm control horn trimmed to just 2 arms and is fastened to the mount with a #2 sheet metal screw and a drop of epoxy.

*A single piece of wire goes from control horn to control horn through a micro push-rod connector.

I used 1/32" wire, and in hind sight could have used even smaller. Weight difference would not mean that much at this size when you concider the weight added by the modification to begin with. If I ever tear the covering off, I guess it would be a good idea to take a couple of pictures!

Good Luck

knarF

Thanks for the input.

Dave , ive painted your setup in one of the pictures. Did i get it right ?

Best regards,

Frank

I realised that the (1/2) fuse is kinda britlle, its made of 1/32 balsa. The wing is much stronger , is used 1/16 there.
I might build a new fuse with 1/16 balsa.

Motor will be an astro 010 16T with a 3s1p 800mA lipo PQ.

Dave G

My Feedback: (1)

Yup, that's it. I remember that it was a good idea that I waited to mount the plywood bases until I was sure of the orientation of the horns on the bellcrank. In one position it was above the top skin. The arm that points fore and aft may need to point aft (or you may have it right in your image). You'll see but you've got the right idea. Finish what you've got before building a new fuse.

checker

Dave G.-Very nice. I'm doing a Mulligan conversion as well, I like the blacked out windows. What power system/prop/esc/battery and what covering did you use?

Thanks.

knarF

Fixed up the two fusehalves. This body is really wide.

Nice mulligan, restoring a 1:3 scale now...but thats another project.

Dave G

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the kind words guys. This was one of those projects that I had to just try and see how it turned out.

Motor is a speed 280 with a 38:1 gearbox. Might be 35:1.
Battery is a 8.4 Volt made up of 7 of the 1/3rd "AA".
The ESC is a Great Planes C-20. I chose this over the C-10 since this one has an on/off switch.
Covering is the cheapest/lightest iron on I could find. I think it was Black Baron.
The windows are actually structural. This part of the fuselage was so week that I used .010" plastic Artus Shim and trimmed them with white pinstripe. It was coincedence that the shim stock that felt strong enough (just by feel) was black. This stuff comes in a big book and every different thickness is a different color. Comes in handy when you need to make a shim.
The center section and the wing struts are mounted to 1/16" aluminum sheet brackets, about 1/4"x3/8", that were drilled and tapped for a 2-56 button head screw. The struts were litterally soaked in CA to harden the ends and then drilled for the screws.

Before anyone asks, the prop in the picture posted earlier is for display. It's actually a letter opener that I saw on eBay. Just drilled it out for the crankshaft and the regular prop nut spins right on. I did spin it up with the motor... bad idea. It's not balanced, and the model acually jumped around the floor before the "flywheel" slowed down.

ROG is impossible without rudder. If I were to do another, I'd put one of the Nano size servos in just for the rudder. Hand launching is easy... full throttle and give it a healthy chuck. Flights last about 8+ minutes depending on how coopertive my wife's cat is for getting buzzed. Landings are best on pavement. The gear bracing is Kevlar thread and is absolutely necessary to keep the gear from spreading.

checker

Awesome,Dave! I hope my Mulligan turns out as good. Thanks. Any idea what the weight is?

Dave G

My Feedback: (1)

14 ounces RTF. A little weight could be saved by cutting out the radial engine, using tissue instead of film, buying very expensive lighter weight batteries and so on. I also have a Dumas Alpha. A low wing has several advantages in "built in build strength". If it also has retracts... build it with 'em up! Also it lends itself to having the rudder coupled to the aileron servo with a pull-pull arrangement.

I saw a guy recently with, I think, a Gullows kit of a Bonanza. Built with the gear up and a regular 9 volt battery. He'd pour on the power, toss it out in front of himself and that think would climb straight up for about a minute. Then he'd just glide around at a fast idle until it got back down. About 10 minutes total. When I asked him if he was worried about burning up the motor or ESC on 9 volts he said if was probably the 50th flight and the same ESC and motor. I'm not really sure how the receiver gets it's stepped down power through the ESC but I know I haven't had a problem with mine at 8.4 volts.

Here's a little better picture of the thread used to support the gear.