al3208

My fuel tank stopper worked loose and leaked fuel all over my fuel tank area (on the wood - pretty well soaked).

Got the fuel to stop leaking (I hope -- screw wasn't tight enough or worked loose?) but what should I do about the very pink wood? Is it a problem or can I just put the fuel tank back?

Thanks for the help.

Alan

DBCherry

My Feedback: (4)

Well, the fuel itself will evaporate quickly, the problem is the oil that's left behind. It WILL soften the wood and should be taken care of if at all possible.

There was a product called K2R Spot Remover that was the RC standard for removing oil from wood in this type of situation. I understand that it is no longer available.

There is a replacement that works, but I don't remember the name. I'm sure someone will post it soon though.
Dennis-

Kaos Rulz

..You can fill the tank area with kitty litter and leave it for a couple of days. The kitty litter will absorb almost all of the oil. Was the tank area fuel proofed with epoxy, dope or other suitable paint? If not, after drawing out the oil, you might want to do so to help prevent any future damage due to fuel exposure.

DBCherry

My Feedback: (4)

Ed,
I can imagine cat litter absorbing the surface stuff, but I can't imagine that it draws the oil out of the wood.

What's present in cat litter that would cause that wicking action?
Dennis-

Kaos Rulz

Dennis,

Not sure what causes it, just know that it works. I've used it more than once. (I'm sorry to say). Obviously, the thicker the wood that's soaked, the longer the process will take. Normally two days should take care of it.
I've heard that you can also use oil spill products. I haven't tried that. Hopefully, I'll not need to use any more similar products.

FLYBOY

My Feedback: (11)

Don't use the clumping kitty litter though! That would be bad.

It does work though. Not for oil stained stuff, but if it just happened, you will be good.

smartman300

My Feedback: (4)

Also, baking soda works great, it just goes everywhere. You need a good way to clean it up though.

Bud Faulkner

My Feedback: (1)

Flour....vacuum out with shop vac and wipe down with alcohol. Just worked for me. Stopper dried out after sitting all winter with no fuel in tank.

Bud

bokuda

My Feedback: (7)

KR2 is still around. I recently bought some at a local hardware store. (Rocky's) It works great for removing oil from balsa. (Guess how I know!)

Capgains

My Feedback: (4)

I was curious, about the participants of this thread who have claimed to have had this stopper coming loose problem. Did this problem happen with a tank that used a metal back plate on the stopper with a machine screw to apply tension?

I have heard the guys at the field discussing this, and evidently over time and vibration the machine screw will eventually back out. (and you can't use locktite) These tanks are common in ARFs like the Hangar 9 Ultra stick I just finished.

The answer is to find a nylon backing plate like the Sullivan, or Dubro tanks use, and a self threading screw. It should fit the stopper.

"You can observe a lot by watching" ~ Yogi Berra


Dan

RSands

One thing I've found that helps is after using the kitty litter, heat the balsa with a heat gun. It forces a bunch of the oil back out of the wood where it can be absorbed with paper towels. Be sure to use some thinned epoxy afterwards, helps hold things together & fuel proof the wood for the next time. Don't overtighten your stopper, should be just snug enough to create a good air/fuel tight seal (and this doesn't take much). Also, make sure you didn't crack the plastic piece in the tank that the screw runs in to. If you did it's gonna happen again real soon. Been there.

Maiden Voyage

Kitty litter works good if the spill is fairly fresh.

For those that have sat a while try corn starch and denatured alcohol. Mix it into a runny paste and apply, let it sit over night, if it looks like it needs more time fill a syringe with more alcohol and re-soak the corn starch. After it drys clean up is fairly easy with a small brush and a vacuum.

And for the ones that are really soaked, as a replacement for K2R just use regular dry cleaning fluid. Mix it with corn starch just like the alcohol, this should clean up even the heaviest fuel soaked wood.

Deano642

The forward part of my Chipmunk fuselage has gotten soaked with fuel/oil - not from a spill but from a previous poor monokote job and lots of exposure to engine exhaust - has been soaked for a LONG time. I am re-covering the entire aircraft and need to get the oil out of the plywood and some balsa before I recover it. The last entry mentioned using dry cleaning fluid - is there a specific brand I should use and where can you find it??

linclogs

Dry cleaning fluid --

This is an old product - I remember my Mom used to use it to clean spots on cloths back in the 50's. Then about 2 years ago, the Wife and I bought a couch that was covered in a tapistry fabric. The manufacturer said DO NOT use anything water-based to clean off any spots (including plain water) - use "Dry Cleaning Fluid" only.

Well, we had a devil of a time trying to find it. We called the store where we bought the couch (Lazy-Boy) and they said "Linens & Things" or Wal-Mart should carry it - but they didn't. We tried everywhere we could think of but no luck. My wife finally got a hint of someplace to try on line and finally was able to order it that way. I'm looking at the can and it says:

AFTA
Adhesive Remover
Cleaning Solvent

Effectively Removes Carpet Adhesives
Cleans "S" Coded Fabrics
Cleaner/Degreaser

In the upper left corner of the can it says "Goof Off Carpet and Fabric Care"

It's made by Lilly Industries, Inc., Grand Rapids, MI 49512. No web address is shown.

As far as ingredients, all it says on the label is, "Contains Petroleum Distillates (8052-41-3, 8032-32-4, 1330-20-7). Obviously those codes must mean something but are lost on me.

The smell reminds me of "Naptha" and is also reminiscent of "white gas" or Coleman lantern fuel.