Gearing changes for the RC 10GT
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Gearing changes for the RC 10GT
I have the RTR Plus truck. I've noticed the truck seems to have plenty of power for acceleration, but not much top end speed. I can see why you'd want this type of gearing for racing because you'd want that instantanious acceleration. However, I don't race mine, I run in a large open field, and I'd like more top end speed. Is the best way to achieve this to add a tooth on the flywheel gear?
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Gearing changes for the RC 10GT
grampi....not sure if this is exactly what your looking for. Give it a look and see?
http://www.robinsonracing.com/tips.html
http://www.robinsonracing.com/gearratio.html
http://www.robinsonracing.com/tips.html
http://www.robinsonracing.com/gearratio.html
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Gearing changes for the RC 10GT
That stuff just went right over my head. I guess I was wondering if anyone in here has added a tooth or two to their clutch gear, and if so, how much of an increase did it make to their top speed.
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Gearing changes for the RC 10GT
Crash, you rock! grampi, I don't know much. But, I do know that if you change the plastic drive gear from stock up to, I think, 62 or 64 teeth It rips. This is a cheap deal, like $4 bucks. My buddy did it in his and mine came with it already installed.
I think the stock one comes with like 2 holes through the side of it, and the bigger one has a whole bunch. You can get it at hobbytown
I think the stock one comes with like 2 holes through the side of it, and the bigger one has a whole bunch. You can get it at hobbytown
#6
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Gearing changes for the RC 10GT
grampi,
The stock gearing for the GT is 15/66. If you add teeth to the clutch bell (16/66) you will increase your top speed or if you take away teeth from the spur gear (16/64) you will also increase your top speed. Increasing your clutch bell size will give you the biggest increase in speed per tooth added. When racing we use 16/66 and 17/66 with a CV-r12 just to kill some of the power induced wheel spin.
The stock gearing for the GT is 15/66. If you add teeth to the clutch bell (16/66) you will increase your top speed or if you take away teeth from the spur gear (16/64) you will also increase your top speed. Increasing your clutch bell size will give you the biggest increase in speed per tooth added. When racing we use 16/66 and 17/66 with a CV-r12 just to kill some of the power induced wheel spin.
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I don't understand the technical stuff yet, just bashing an R2R and learning. But, grampi, I forgot to mention that you still have enough low end torque to do unlimited cookies and stuff on the tarmac!
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Gearing changes for the RC 10GT
Originally posted by Nitro Flash
grampi,
The stock gearing for the GT is 15/66. If you add teeth to the clutch bell (16/66) you will increase your top speed or if you take away teeth from the spur gear (16/64) you will also increase your top speed. Increasing your clutch bell size will give you the biggest increase in speed per tooth added. When racing we use 16/66 and 17/66 with a CV-r12 just to kill some of the power induced wheel spin.
grampi,
The stock gearing for the GT is 15/66. If you add teeth to the clutch bell (16/66) you will increase your top speed or if you take away teeth from the spur gear (16/64) you will also increase your top speed. Increasing your clutch bell size will give you the biggest increase in speed per tooth added. When racing we use 16/66 and 17/66 with a CV-r12 just to kill some of the power induced wheel spin.
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Gearing changes for the RC 10GT
Originally posted by grampi
This thing has an incredible amount of wheel spin as it is now. At only a couple bucks a piece, I suppose I could just pick up a 16, 17, and 18 just to see which one I'd like the best. I'd like to pick up about 5 mph on the top end, but I don't want to make it doggy out of the hole either. Do you have to change anything inside the clutch when going to a larger bell?
This thing has an incredible amount of wheel spin as it is now. At only a couple bucks a piece, I suppose I could just pick up a 16, 17, and 18 just to see which one I'd like the best. I'd like to pick up about 5 mph on the top end, but I don't want to make it doggy out of the hole either. Do you have to change anything inside the clutch when going to a larger bell?
grampi, I can tell your going to have a lot of fun with this hobby.
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After doing some research, I found out the 16 tooth clutch bell is the highest number of teeth you can use on the pull start version of the RC 10GT. I don't know what the difference is, but the 17 and 18 tooth bells both say "for non-pull start only." So what I decided to do is to get the 16 tooth bell, and a 64 tooth spur gear. I figure using a combination of the 15 and 16 tooth bells, and the 64 and 66 tooth spur gears, I should be able get this thing set up the way I want it. The 15/66 factory setup is obviously made for racing on a track, which I don't do. I run in a large open field where more top speed is preferred.
I've also decided to ditch the pull start unit on mine. I never use it, so why have it? I have a starter box which is infinitely better than yanking on that rope!
I placed my order with Tower Hobbies today. If you don't mind waiting about a week to get your stuff, they're tough to beat. They have good prices (usually better than local shops), they almost always have what I'm looking for in stock, and their customer service is second to none. They're only charging me $3 for shipping. I can't drive the nearest hobby shop for that! The only thing I ordered that they didn't have in stock was the crankcase cover (it goes on the engine where the pull starter mounted). They said they'll have more in in about a week. I can't wait to try out these new gears! Zoom Zoom!
I've also decided to ditch the pull start unit on mine. I never use it, so why have it? I have a starter box which is infinitely better than yanking on that rope!
I placed my order with Tower Hobbies today. If you don't mind waiting about a week to get your stuff, they're tough to beat. They have good prices (usually better than local shops), they almost always have what I'm looking for in stock, and their customer service is second to none. They're only charging me $3 for shipping. I can't drive the nearest hobby shop for that! The only thing I ordered that they didn't have in stock was the crankcase cover (it goes on the engine where the pull starter mounted). They said they'll have more in in about a week. I can't wait to try out these new gears! Zoom Zoom!
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Just swapped out the factory 15/66 gears today with 16/64 gears. Can't wait to try out this baby and see how much my top speed improves. I ran it around the yard for a little bit, and it didn't seem to lose much acceleration. Yard's too small to open 'er up though. I'll post more later.
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The very first day I got mine running I ran it in the snow. It's pretty neat if there's not a lot of snow, but if there's more than an inch or so on the ground, it'll get stuck fairly easy. I prefer running in the dirt.
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Today was the first chance I've had to take her out and open it up since I changed the gears. There's quite a noticeable difference in top speed. I'd say about 5 mph. There's also quite a difference in acceleration. It doesn't launch off the line like it did with the factory gearing. With the stock gears, when throttled from a dead stop, it would roll about 5-10 feet, then the roostertails would start. Now it rolls about 20-25 feet before it starts to roostertail. I certainly don't think these gears are too tall. I think a lot of the off-the-line snap that it had with the factory gearing could be had with these gears with a better clutch. I suppose I could tighten the slipper clutch nut a bit, but this is only a band-aid, not a proper fix. What clutch would you recommend? Should I go with a 2, 3 or 4 shoe clutch?