nxqzablesk8er

I have my settings set really good, but i keep getting air in the fuel line, causing it to die. I can idle forever, but if i get going top speed, then when i start to slow it down to turn around it dies. I go and look, and the fuel line doesn't have fuel in it. I have already replaced the fuel tank and the fuel lines once before. What could it be? What can I do? Thanks ~Peace~Justin

dbow

My Feedback: (1)

Is your check engine light on?
lol

Check your carb's fittings, o-rings and check the backplate and head. Make sure everything is sealed and secure.

Could be loss of compression too, check your piston and sleeve.

umm what else....

Check your temp, I have seen some engines run so hot that the fuel evaporates when it hits the carb.

Just some thoughts on things to try

Dbow

Bonefrost

My Feedback: (6)

I'm having the same problem.I ran my truck in the evening and it ran great,Next day I took it to the track when it was like 110 degrees out,no luck.
So I'm gonna try it tonight when it cools down.Mess w/the settings and try again.
I'm a newbee so I'm just learning.
Its called "vapor lock" when the fuel evaporates before it hits the carb.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Late,
BONEz'

nxqzablesk8er

So basically take apart the engine, and reapply some goop. what goop would you reccomend? and do you know where i can find out how to take apart the engine?? Thanks for thehelp

dbow

My Feedback: (1)

Im not so sure you should take the engine apart unless you fell comfortable with it.
If possible take it to a hobby shop and have someone look at it.

If you do decide to take it apart and seal it, you would want to use RV sealant. You can grab some at the auto parts store and just make sure it is fuel safe. The package will depict that it is fuel safe on the back.

As for directions, you might be able to find a exploded parts layout on the web.

What engine is it?

If you have replaced all the fuel lines, checked the tank, all fuel lines, needle settings etc. and everything seems to be in order, it might be time for a new engine.

A quick way I use to test for engine wear is a compression gauge, I always put the gauge on my new engines and get the setting. You can actually watch the compression drop over time as you check it.

If you do take it apart your piston should push the sleeve up when you turn the engine over with the head off. If the piston pushes through the sleeve very easily with almost no resistance then its worn out.

Just a little explanation on the piston and sleeve:

As you know these 2 stroke engines do not have rings on the piston. The sleeve has a taper towards the top and this creates a tighter fit to the piston at the top of the stroke. That taper causes a seal and creates your combustion chamber. Over time the material in the sleeve will wear and the ability to seal the chamber decreases.
When this happens its time for a new piston and sleeve or a new engine.

What kind of engine and how old?
When I say how old I mean roughly how many gallons of fuel have you put though it?

DBow

Elwood

My Feedback: (2)

That's RTV Silicone, not RV. I would get Ultra Copper.

dbow

My Feedback: (1)

ooops need to watch my typing

Thanks for the correction.

Bonefrost

My Feedback: (6)

Hello,
I had that same problem,post is above.
I ran my truck when it was a little cooler out and had no problems what so ever.

My buddys airplane motor was having the same problem and he put the RTV Silicone on and it didn't work,so he ended up putting a remote needle valve on has had no problems since.
BNZ

kdh77

Try adding a fuel filter. This will give you more of a reserve in the line and keep you from getting as much air in the line as well.