adavis

I'm looking for some advice...

Having been a bit slightly heavy handed when sanding to blend in a wing trailing edge - I've ended up with with a slight depression in the wing sheeting. The sheeting is 1/16th - the (shallow bowl shaped) depression which is about 2in by 1in is probaby about 1 millimetre deep at the centre (please forgive my mixing units!!).

What would be the best filler to use to correct this?

Many Thanks,
=Adrian=

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

There are many brands of balsa filler on the market, they all seem to be
about the same. Some Guys use lightweight spackle from the hardware
store as a filler.

FBD.

gary9648

My Feedback: (1)

I use the light spackling by Dap products myself. I use this before I glass over the wood. After glassing I use light weight body filler. The key to using this is not to let it sit to long. Do not apply body filler then wait till next day to work it. It will be way to hard. Work it after about fifteen miniutes. you can carve it with a knife after it just starts to set up also.

BWooster

I don't like filler for larger areas. I would dampen and glue a piece of 1/32 Balsa in the 'dip', and then block sand afterwards to feather the edges.

My 2 cents only.

CoosBayLumber

My Feedback: (1)

Dave.....

I am wondering if fillers are like auto Bondo. For if they get too thick, it will eventially crack.

How thick can the material in the tubs be applied? I have a wing fillet coming up in a few months which goes from 0 to 3/4" to 0


Wm.

the-plumber

Whatever filler you use, be sure it is NOT vinyl based.

Vinyl spackling fillers do work, but they are notoriously incompatible with common model building chemicals, such as polyester finishing resin. Polyester finishing resin will not cure if applied over vinyl spackling pastes.

I like the Red Devil [link=http://www.reddevil.com/products.cfm?c=pr&cat=47]One Time lightweight spackling compound. [/link] It's acrylic and compatible with every other chemical I've used. It's water soluble and can be thinned a bit if needed. Apply it in thin coats and allow to cure before adding second or third coats.

Fairly easy to fill a low spot with this stuff.

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

I would sand/cut a fillet to the approximate dimensions you need and glue it in place. Then use the lightweight filler to fill in the gaps.

I have had very good results UP TO 3/32" thick and marginal results above that. What I have done (with an above average success rate ) is to let the filler dry for a minimum of 24 hours first. Then I sand the filler to the shape I need (final sanding with 320 and 220 ) then saturate the filler with thin CA. The thin CA provides a hard surface about 1/32" - 1/16" thick so any blemishes from the CA can be sanded off. This surface also holds the rest of the filler in place if a crack develops. Just be careful going over it with an iron (especially at Monokote temps ).

A tip: Many of the fillers (Hobbico Lite, etc ) will thin down using water. I usually thin my filler down to a VERY thick pancake batter consistency. I also dampen the wood in the area prior to applying it. If you need to apply it in layers, make sure the filler you are attaching it to is dampened with water also. It takes a little longer to dry, but it adheres better.

Hope this helps.

GrnBrt

My Feedback: (5)

I use Red Devil light weight filler and have for years with good results. I like to thin ti way down and then brush it on wood to fill the pores as it sands so nice!

Mr_Scale

My Feedback: (7)

Thanks to the advise of a friend, I have been using Elmer's wood filler over the past few months. It works great, have about the same color as balsa and sands like hard balsa. You can pick up a tub at your local Home Depot, Lowes or whatever for about $5.00. Spackle fillers seem to crack over time and have no added strength.

Roby

If I'm just trying to make it "look" pretty I'll use
some "lite" wall spackle of no particular brand.

If I'm looking for strength I'll use Pacer "Z-Poxy
finishing resin" and mix in some micro balloons.
It will set up hard and strong and then sand smooth
with very little effort.

Regards
Roby

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Acrylic spackle is like a glue also. Instead of using regular glue try using spackle when you lay down your balsa filler piece. You'll see that it sands better and doesnt leave high spots under the sandpaper like glue does when you feather the edges.