jimutt

Hi,

I have a three year old T-Maxx 2.5 that is undergoing some upgrades.

I've bought a tranny from a new T-maxx 3.3 and a Picco .26 Max engine. But I realised that the shafts from the new gearbox is bigger then the old ones. So I'll need to buy some new driveshafts and a new spur gear.
But I also need to buy new brakes. And my old brake looks like the one at Traxxas exploded views. It's a disc that is fitted on a nut. So, I wonder what I need to buy to fit one of these discs on it? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXHGD7&P=OW

Please excuse my bad english. I'm from Sweden....

Snook Man

<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 9pt">With the bigger diameter output shaft its most likely you have the 4908 FOC tranny which has a 6mm output compared to the 5mm output all the previous Maxx's use.

To use the disk you have posted, you would need the brake pads #5365, the disk #5364 or 5364X, 2 shoulder screws for the pads #4978, and the pinned brake yoke #5457.
You will need the center shafts for the 4908 as well. The front will have to be cut to length and a little of the chassis needs to be dremeled for the larger shaft clearance.</span></p>

jimutt

Thank you very much. What do you mean with "The front will have to be cut to lenght"? Do I have to shorten the center shafts?

Snook Man

Yes. The 4908 Maxx has a 30mm extended chassis in the front compared to the previous Maxx's. So a little trimming to the 4908 front center shaft is needed to fit the shorter style chassis.

You could also swap the 4909 FOC shaft which is 5mm into the 4908 transmission. Then use the 4909 brake (blue hex) setup with the 5mm center shafts.

jimutt

Okey, thank you. Think I'm going with the 6mm output even if I have to dremel the chassis. Have you done this yourself?

jimutt

I've got all the parts and so on. But I can't get it to fit. I've dremeld a lot and I've cut the shafts to the right length. But the shafts in making contact with the chassis just where the servo mount is. So If I dremel it enough I cant use the servo mont. Any Ideas?

Snook Man

I dremeled the chassis enough for clearance of the shaft and then made a wider servo mount to attach to the chassis.
Most people don't like to dremel the chassis and opt for the 5mm shaft but the 6mm will work with a little creativity.
There are several options like relocating the fuel tank and making the throttle servo to a direct pull or making a bracket to attach to the chassis thats wider and then cutting the legs of the servo mount to attach to the bracket. 

jimutt

Okey, thanks for the fast respond man.

Hmm, maybe you can take some pics on your servo mount? Because I would really like to build one but I only have access to quite basic tools. I don't have any CNC machine or something like that.

Snook Man

<p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 9pt">I don't have any pics of that setup, I sold that truck to a friend after I put a CD in it.
The mount can be made from plastic or aluminum. You just want to make a bracket that’s wide enough to clear the center shaft and mount to the chassis where it was widened for the shaft. Drill two new holes in the chassis to mount it, remove the area where the center shaft would hit in a u shape and cut the legs on 1 of the stock mounts so it sits level on the bracket and screw threw the bracket into the mount.
I made mine from aluminum with nothing but common hand tools. (Wish I had a CNC)

</p></span></p><p class="MsoNormal" style="MARGIN: 0in 0in 0pt"><span style="FONT-FAMILY: Arial; FONT-SIZE: 9pt">You could just make a new mount with a wider leg spread if you wanted.</span></p>

</p>

jimutt

Okey, thanks. I was wondering if it maybe'll be possible to cut off the mount and then take a carbon plate and glue it between the part of the mount that is screwed onto the servo and the part that is cut off. Then I can use the old "screw hole".

Snook Man

That would work as long as the glue holds up.