Tricktrack

My Feedback: (2)

Curious what everyone is using for the throttle pushrod in order to reduce the chance of interference?

rctom

Just be sure to use a nylon clevis so the engine is electrically insulated from the pushrod, then you can use whatever you like.

TF

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I agree with Tom.

I use a 4/40 metal rod and a ball link in a plastic housing at each end. No problems with this set up in quite a few planes.

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

I'm using nyrod and a ball link on both ends. My throttle servo is at the front edge of the readio tray.

Tricktrack

My Feedback: (2)

Any specific ball link you guys are going with or any of them in general.

flatlandmike

My Feedback: (17)

any plastic ball links are fine i used dubro because i have about 30 of them handy

Tired Old Man

My Feedback: (1)

I use the small Dubro for 4/40 rod. You can use larger and stronger, but it's not needed.

Shogun

My Feedback: (2)

I tried using a regular 4-40 rod with ball links on both ends. The first time I ran the engine up I was amazed to see the throttle rod vibrate like a guitar string. You can bet that would knock the nylon teeth out of a standard servo in a short while, leaving you with no throttle control.

The hardware kit had enough 4-40 all thread rod and carbon left over to make both the choke and throttle servo pushrods, just like the control surface pushrods. Doing it this was insures that they pushrods don't vibrate, rock steady now at full throttle.

rctom

The first time I tried using mini-servos on the throttole and choke that's what happened, the pushrod vibrated and tore the teeth out of the little servos.

I tried a lot of things, and finally gave up and accepted the fact that I needed a full size servo to handle the throttle. Using the CF pushrods is a good idea though.

TF

sillyness

My Feedback: (25)

Nyrod run through a velcro loop that's velcroed to the velcro straps that hold my fuel tank in place... cannot vibrate. I'm pretty proud of myself for that setup

BTW... I used a dubro 4-40 link on the servo end and a Nelson 2-56 link on the throttle end.

Tricktrack

My Feedback: (2)

What are you guys using on the choke arm. I was thinking it would be 4-40 but the 4-40 screw is just a bit big and the 2-56 just a bit small. Thanks for any info.

mdavies31

Check this thread:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_20...tm.htm#2093493

There is a picture of my DA50 showing the muffler bracket but you can see the choke linkage, I used a 2-56 Dubro ball link and a Nylock nut. The ball part of the ball link is held tight between the arm and the nut and can't move, the hole in the choke arm is a little big but it works great, just hard to get fingers in there to but it all together.

Rockyaged

On my DA50R, I noticed the size of the choke arm being inbetween sizes. It did
not require much drilling to enlarge that hole to accept a 4-40 bolt, which is what
I did. I made up the push rods from carbon fiber tubing I had left over from other
projects with 4-40 threaded materials. Works great.
Of those of you who are using the DA50R motor, does the choke lever moment
seem stiff? It is very stiff on mine.

Gerald

Futurase

My Feedback: (10)

Gerald,
Yes, mine is just as stiff. It is not easy to get the choke fully closed.

Norman Ross

rctom

When I use a DA 50 I always make a new arm for the choke. I use a small piece of brass sheet soldered to a 3/16" wheel collar. The collar slips over the shaft and tightens with a set screw.

This gives smoother operation and allows more mechanical advantage.

TF