Welcome Wren Turbines USA
#2
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RE: Welcome Wren Turbines USA
Hey Ron ,
I Have a Super Sport and noticed the FOD screen was unattached or should I say you could push in and notice that the screen is loose from the motor support......how would you fix this .......
Regards,
Steve
I Have a Super Sport and noticed the FOD screen was unattached or should I say you could push in and notice that the screen is loose from the motor support......how would you fix this .......
Regards,
Steve
#3
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RE: Welcome Wren Turbines USA
Steve,
Thick CA is used at the factory. Simply remove the FOD, reposition the screen, clean with alcohol and apply a few sparse drops to set the screen. Once you are happy with the positioning, flow a narrow bead along the inner groove and hit with some kicker..
good luck!!
Thick CA is used at the factory. Simply remove the FOD, reposition the screen, clean with alcohol and apply a few sparse drops to set the screen. Once you are happy with the positioning, flow a narrow bead along the inner groove and hit with some kicker..
good luck!!
#4
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RE: Welcome Wren Turbines USA
Thanks Ron....I assumed it was a thick CA.......you have any openings for your open house? What are the dates on this? Trying to get my required continuing education hours in for work and thought if I could squeeze some extra time , would like to come up ....
Best Regards,
Steve
Best Regards,
Steve
#5
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RE: Welcome Wren Turbines USA
Steve,
The response to the open day has been better than I could have imagined. We will have a full shop, but there is always room for one or two more. Glad to have you, so come on up for the day!!
Best regards,
The response to the open day has been better than I could have imagined. We will have a full shop, but there is always room for one or two more. Glad to have you, so come on up for the day!!
Best regards,
#7
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RE: Welcome Wren Turbines USA
The Mk 4 has a different rotor assembly (compressor, shaft and turbine wheel) from the Mk 3. This makes it easier to assemble in kit form. There is little difference once the engine is built, the power is very similar.
Why do you want to move the thermocouple, please?
Sara Parish
Wren Turbines
Why do you want to move the thermocouple, please?
Sara Parish
Wren Turbines
#8
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RE: Welcome Wren Turbines USA
In some installations, the EGT can end up in the wrong position in relation to the motor straps, which can result in a crimped probe.
If you do decide to rotate the tail cone, do be sure to only remove the 4 screws holding the cone. Removing all 8 will result in the NGV becoming uncentered, which will eventually cause a blade rub....
If you do decide to rotate the tail cone, do be sure to only remove the 4 screws holding the cone. Removing all 8 will result in the NGV becoming uncentered, which will eventually cause a blade rub....
#9
Join Date: Nov 2006
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RE: Welcome Wren Turbines USA
The thermocouple was at the 5 o'clock position. I need it at the 7 o'clock position due to the wiring run of the other radio components - super neat install. I did only remove the fours screws in reverse of the build sequence as noted in the build manual prior to moving. Thanks!
#10
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RE: Welcome Wren Turbines USA
Hi Ron,
I have a MW54 Mk4 that I bought used from RC Universe. It does appear to have been run by virtue of a visual inspection. I have not seen the ECU with power on. Do you sell 3MM shutoff festo fittings? Flightworks only has 4MM. I guess I could put the shutoff upstream of the pump. Also there is a filter between the pump and engine. It is not shown in the build instructions. Is that the correct placement?
Thanks for your time.
Alan
I have a MW54 Mk4 that I bought used from RC Universe. It does appear to have been run by virtue of a visual inspection. I have not seen the ECU with power on. Do you sell 3MM shutoff festo fittings? Flightworks only has 4MM. I guess I could put the shutoff upstream of the pump. Also there is a filter between the pump and engine. It is not shown in the build instructions. Is that the correct placement?
Thanks for your time.
Alan
#11
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RE: Welcome Wren Turbines USA
Alan,
You can use a 4mm to 3mm reducer festo (4mm plastic pipe with a 3mm festo fitting) and use the 4mm valve. Filter should be installed after solenoid and pump, so fuel is filtered just prior to entering the motor.
cheers,
You can use a 4mm to 3mm reducer festo (4mm plastic pipe with a 3mm festo fitting) and use the 4mm valve. Filter should be installed after solenoid and pump, so fuel is filtered just prior to entering the motor.
cheers,
#12
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RE: Welcome Wren Turbines USA
This is what I use on my Wrens. If you heat up the 3mm. tubing slightly you can force it over the 4mm. barbs. A lot better than adding two reducers and four extra connections IMO.
http://dreamworksrc.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=277
Joe
http://dreamworksrc.com/catalog/prod...roducts_id=277
Joe
#14
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RE: Welcome Wren Turbines USA
Can I use a Duralite plus lithium-ion, 4300 mah, 7.4 volt, 4 cell, 2s2p to power my MW54 mk 4 ECU/Pump setup (green plastic case - ATCU)? I am manual starting. I have an external battery for the starter motor. I have my radio on a second Li'on battery.
Thank you
Thank you
#20
RE: Welcome Wren Turbines USA
Alan
I ran my supersport all season on a 7.4 Lithium Ion Fromeco 2s2p under Ron's supervison, testing to see if it would work ok. With LiOn's, Ron's statement about 4 amps is extremely important. In my experience, the Super Sport pulled 9 amps on rampup when the starter and fuel pump were pulling. AFter start, the amperage is only fuel pump, so its never more than 4. I have seen alot of ion batteries in my testing that wont cut it,. The safest thing is to put an ammeter on your battery between it and the starter to ensure your current to make sure your battery is up to the task. That battery should be able to easily flow 10+ amps, so you will be ok, but you still need to adhere to one basic rule on ION's. If the voltage is below 7 volts on a 1 amp load...charge before trying to start. You should not let it get below 1/2 full if you want the starting power.
For those running the 160, the comments above does not apply. Its much more demanding. A single 2S2P LiOn lacks the punch unless its the Sanyo purple cells, which are hard to get..and it will heat..
Dont be tempted to run a 2s1p ion either.. its just not enough punch for a turbine starter. too much pack impedence
I am talking about LiOn batteries, not lipos just to be clear. However, I have also found several Lipo's that dont meet their advertised specs, so make sure.
I ran my supersport all season on a 7.4 Lithium Ion Fromeco 2s2p under Ron's supervison, testing to see if it would work ok. With LiOn's, Ron's statement about 4 amps is extremely important. In my experience, the Super Sport pulled 9 amps on rampup when the starter and fuel pump were pulling. AFter start, the amperage is only fuel pump, so its never more than 4. I have seen alot of ion batteries in my testing that wont cut it,. The safest thing is to put an ammeter on your battery between it and the starter to ensure your current to make sure your battery is up to the task. That battery should be able to easily flow 10+ amps, so you will be ok, but you still need to adhere to one basic rule on ION's. If the voltage is below 7 volts on a 1 amp load...charge before trying to start. You should not let it get below 1/2 full if you want the starting power.
For those running the 160, the comments above does not apply. Its much more demanding. A single 2S2P LiOn lacks the punch unless its the Sanyo purple cells, which are hard to get..and it will heat..
Dont be tempted to run a 2s1p ion either.. its just not enough punch for a turbine starter. too much pack impedence
I am talking about LiOn batteries, not lipos just to be clear. However, I have also found several Lipo's that dont meet their advertised specs, so make sure.
#21
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RE: Welcome Wren Turbines USA
ron
i have a supersport witch is a couple of years old with less than an hours running. it has been laid up most of its life.
decided to us it again and it sound noisey when spun by hand. only been run on premium grade parrafin and turbine
oil. will it need attension or will it be just dry on the bearings. it has been stored in the house wrap in a cloth in a drawer.
cheers.
snatch.....
i have a supersport witch is a couple of years old with less than an hours running. it has been laid up most of its life.
decided to us it again and it sound noisey when spun by hand. only been run on premium grade parrafin and turbine
oil. will it need attension or will it be just dry on the bearings. it has been stored in the house wrap in a cloth in a drawer.
cheers.
snatch.....
#22
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RE: Welcome Wren Turbines USA
Sounds like a case of dry bearings.....pump a bit of fuel thru the fuel pipe and spin it up. Once all of the ceramic balls become coated with fuel and oil...it should quiet down.
Happy holidays!!
Happy holidays!!
#24
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Looking for some advise. I have a brand new Wren 80 Turbine. Set it up on test stand with fittings supplied with engine. Bled and it started first time. I have now fitted turbine to jet and added a on/off tap, Festo in line filter and a Map 2oz bubble trap. I now cant get turbine to start. It spins over, You hear a pop as it ignites and a ticking sounds. Revs don’t go any higher than 8000rpm then goes down to about 7000 before cutting out with message saying ignition error?. I have bled system and fuel is getting to turbine.
Any ideas?.
Jeremy
Any ideas?.
Jeremy
#25
Ron will give proper advice but in the meantime,
Jeremy the first thing to check is to make sure you didn't plug in the solenoids backwards. Probably ok
make sure your turbine Lipo is fully charged.
Then flush out out your fuel system backwards and make sure it has no trash in it. See that often too. Even on experienced guys.
Then take out the festo inline filter. Filters on the suction side don't work very well. The motor has a pressure side filter under the cover. The. Remove all the zip ties on your fuel suction feed lines. You likely have a restriction someplace. That would be where I would start for what it's worth.
Jeremy the first thing to check is to make sure you didn't plug in the solenoids backwards. Probably ok
make sure your turbine Lipo is fully charged.
Then flush out out your fuel system backwards and make sure it has no trash in it. See that often too. Even on experienced guys.
Then take out the festo inline filter. Filters on the suction side don't work very well. The motor has a pressure side filter under the cover. The. Remove all the zip ties on your fuel suction feed lines. You likely have a restriction someplace. That would be where I would start for what it's worth.
Last edited by gooseF22; 12-11-2013 at 07:10 AM.