Weathering look
#2
RE: Weathering look
common techniques include, oil paint in a amber color that you wipe on and then wipe off to the desired look you want. My bud used pencil lead and or charcoal and it looks very real you just have to clear coat the pencil after the fact or it will wipe off.
Airbrush is another technique like Yellow Aircraft does and it gives it a nice look as well.
a few recent threads on here with this very thing, one of the A-10 builds has it and a L39 as well.
Airbrush is another technique like Yellow Aircraft does and it gives it a nice look as well.
a few recent threads on here with this very thing, one of the A-10 builds has it and a L39 as well.
#3
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RE: Weathering look
My friend billy did the weathering to my fej f-15 1/7 scale twin using tamiya paint smoke color and apply with the Airbrush them sand them with fine brello , he paint all the rivet them the brello do the job next day see the pic hope this will help
#4
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RE: Weathering look
IMO, the proper technique isn't limited to just One technique, its multiple ones and starts before the final painting process.
For instance, The airframe should be painted silver to begin with (makes it look like its metal). Then to simulate paint chips along the leading edge areas, water should be wiped along the leading edge, and then a combination of salt and sea salt put on the leading edge and allowed to dry. Once the final colors are applied, the salt can be wiped off with a scotch-brite pad and you now have a "chipped" paint.
For peeling paint around panel edges, etc I use a Q-tip and vaseline. Put a small bit of vaseline on the Q-tip and then put it where you want to simulate the peeling paint. This can also be used for larger area's as well.
I then use a piece of brass wool to scrub the entire airfame down. This wears the paint, and if you over do it, it thins the paint to where it appears worn through and the silver paint shows through.
Once all that is done, i then begin the dirtying process.
for overall airframe dirt and grime, i take some tamiya paint (brown and black) mixed a bit and then thin it Waaayyy down. Then i spray this with an airbrush over the entire airfame and allow it to dry for a bit, and then take a rag soaked in water to wipe it off. repeat as necessary to get the depth and grime level as desired.
For hydraulic and other fluid runs, I do the same as above, but less thinned and then use a small tipped syringe. I put a blob of the paint mixture where i want the trail to "run" from, then use the airbrush (no paint, air only) to "blow" the paint blob across the surface.
For instance, The airframe should be painted silver to begin with (makes it look like its metal). Then to simulate paint chips along the leading edge areas, water should be wiped along the leading edge, and then a combination of salt and sea salt put on the leading edge and allowed to dry. Once the final colors are applied, the salt can be wiped off with a scotch-brite pad and you now have a "chipped" paint.
For peeling paint around panel edges, etc I use a Q-tip and vaseline. Put a small bit of vaseline on the Q-tip and then put it where you want to simulate the peeling paint. This can also be used for larger area's as well.
I then use a piece of brass wool to scrub the entire airfame down. This wears the paint, and if you over do it, it thins the paint to where it appears worn through and the silver paint shows through.
Once all that is done, i then begin the dirtying process.
for overall airframe dirt and grime, i take some tamiya paint (brown and black) mixed a bit and then thin it Waaayyy down. Then i spray this with an airbrush over the entire airfame and allow it to dry for a bit, and then take a rag soaked in water to wipe it off. repeat as necessary to get the depth and grime level as desired.
For hydraulic and other fluid runs, I do the same as above, but less thinned and then use a small tipped syringe. I put a blob of the paint mixture where i want the trail to "run" from, then use the airbrush (no paint, air only) to "blow" the paint blob across the surface.