mxer958

i have a blade cx2 and yes i am fairly new into flying but i was wondering on some of everyones opinions. what does everyone on here have and what troubles did u have/experience? i want to get a new boom and new motor but not sure on which one.. also i want to get more control when flying.any tips and tricks is greatly appreciated. thanks in advance.

bad400

its your heli buy what makes it cool to you

i have the blade 400 only needs better servo`s
sold walkera 60 metal didnt like the radio nor did i want to put to much in it
i have the walkera 52 very small hard to fly
walkera 5#10 metal very nice flying and very quite heli
piece of crap exceed eagle 50 total waste of money any exceed heli is junk will never buy again
sold 2 art-tech md 500`s just junk out of the box never will buy art-tech again
syma double horse 9081noisy but very good 3 channel only replaced battery in a year 2 weeks ago the reciever went out
syma s006 aloy shark good 3 channel heli fly`s nice
syma mosqito v2 flew good for a year battery is dead now

thinking of getting the esky belt cp2

racemaxx24

Wats up man.. I live right up the road from ya near Johnson City

Anyways, i've had my CX2 for about a week and a half and I haven't had any issues with it at all... I have sorta been babying but I still takes the normal hits that a newb would give it. I did add a new set of motors and such as it says in my sig but it runs great stock

mxer958

how do u like your new motors? i want to get something that will increase power quite a bit with out breaking the bank.

kruser495

motors are fine no need for a new one un less you are going to be outside which needs more power.

UTFSE


[link=http://www.heli-wiki.com/mediawiki/index.php/HOWTO_Wiki_Overall_CX_and_CX2_Setup]here is your god. read it and reread it.[/link]

mxer958

yea i will be outside. dont really have the room in house to do any actual flyin and really no where to go for good indoor flying so im stuck outside. i want something that packs alot of punch without killing my batt and wallet.

hey racemaxx, how far from johnson city are you? im up that way all the time at muddy creek mx. i also race motocross. ever been there?

kruser495

you will be fine with stock motors. UTFSE

soloboss

The Xtreme ball bearing motors are really good. If you want power, order the SILVER BRUSHES for the Xtreme motors. Add a higher "C" battery and you'll have power. The Xtreme batteries are a good deal with the 18c - 20c discharge rate. If you are going to spend the money for a good battery, spend another few bucks and get a digital timer. These batteries are durable, but if you discharge them too far, you'll kill them. And remember that if you don't go for the maximum fly time, they recharge faster.

Keep the helicopter light weight - the stock CX2 flies really well right out of the box.
If you want to have some fun, pop the brass weights out of the rubber boots at the flybar ends. Just stick a tiny screwdriver or wire in the end of the boot and push the brass weight out. That's step one of the flybar mod. The heli will wake right up.

have fun
Soloboss

kruser495

how do you remove the weights? i dont understand what your saying.

Gonwee

Under the rubber ends of the flybar are little brass weights. Push the rubber in and rotate it 90 degrees(to slide it through the other slot on the end) and pull it out. The brass weight will fall out, then put the rubber end back on.

soloboss

Gonwee has it - push the rubber boot toward the hub in the middle of the flybar. There's a hook at the end of the flybar. You can rotate the boot so the hook aligns with the slot in the end of the boot so you can pull the hole thing off the flybar. Remove the brass and put the boot back on.

I do things just a little different, but the result is the same. Look at the closed end of the rubber boot. You see two slots in the rubber. One slot has a wire loop in it - that's the flybar with a hook in the end so the boot doesn't fly off. There's nothing in the other hole. Stick a tiny screwdriver or stiff wire or dental pick or toothpick into that empty hole and push the brass weight out. Do that on both sides. Go fly. It's fun and you're gonna like it.

If you want the weight back in, look at the open end of the boot - the end that the fly bar rod goes into. You'll see a rubber bump that aligns with the slot in the brass weight. Just align the weight and slide it back into the hole in the boot.

IF you like the feel with the weights out and want more, remove the boots. Get metal axle collars that are about 3/16" outside and have a 1/16" hole in the center with a set screw. Just hook two of the weights on each hook. Don't straighten the hook or anything, this is just a test. Lock the set screws and try that. Can you fly it? Then take one of the weights from each end - now you have just one weight on each end and the helicopter will fly with a lot more energy but a lot less stability. You want to add or remove weight to get a balance between fast enough and stable enough for you. I have instructions on the Wiki CX site.

Does that get it done? If not, I'll post photos, but I'll be you'll be in the air in one minute flat. And talk about bang for the buck!
Soloboss

kruser495

does it make it less stable?

soloboss

Yes it does make it less stable. Taking the weights out of the boots will make it about 20% less stable and makes it about 20% faster. You will notice that it's faster. You'll hardly notice that it's less stable. From the factory, the helicopter is more stable than YOU need it to be. I comes from the factory set up for a new fliers FIRST FLIGHT. The more weight you take out of the flybar the less stable and more responsive it becomes.

Makes sense when you think about it. If it was 100% stable, it wouldn't go anywhere! And that's not much fun.

Hey, it's all a trade-off. Fiddle with the weights to find the setup that works best for you. Or you might have a flybar for inside and another for outside. I used to use just one little collar on each end, but I got tired of having to concentrate that hard so I'm back to stock weights indoors and I pull out the brass things when I want to play.

mxer958

do you still have the connecting arms to the swash plate in the stock setting on the servo arms?

soloboss

Yes, I just remove weight from the flybar. You'll get all the action you can handle by adjusting the weight. Moving the links will probably result in blade clack.

systemlord

soloboss, were on the same page you and I! My first upgrade was a set of [link=http://www.boomtownhobbies.com/Xtreme_SE180_Bearing_motors_pair_p/esl031-fslash-2.htm] Xtreme SE180 V2 ball bearing motor[/link], a bearing motors increases your runtime while giving you more power for outside time. The extra power is FREE because they have ball bearings unlike the stock motors that run HOT do to the bushings that reduce runtimes! I purchased a [link=http://www.boomtownhobbies.com/BoomTownHobbies_Model_3_Boom_Kit_p/bth001.htm]BoomTownHobbies Model 3 Boom Kit [/link]. An awesome battery to buy for the CX2 & CX3 is Thunder Power's 910mAh 20C con./40C burst rates Lipos, they cost the same as the E-Flite Lipos but have two times more current draw without suffering on your runtimes.

systemlord

While we're talking about flybars how about a flybar that never bends, [link=https://www.ushobbysupply.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_44&products_id=699&osCsi d=71770113e560c7351ec99ae554d3ec2b]Goldslinger - Nearly Unbreakable Flybar CX2[/link]? Now when I crash hard (not that I have) I can say for sure that my flybar isn't bent. I hated having to bend back the stock flybar, I spent too much time straightening the flybar than I'd like to!

soloboss

Oh yeah, the Goldslinger bar is a good piece. I'm not so sure about the end weights - I never got a report of the weight of the flybar versus the stock bar with stock weights. I like a light bar for outdoor use.

systemlord

I think the bullet type weights play a larger part in the rotating mass on the flybar then the actual shaft itself, it will be interesting to see the difference. I am going to buy another Goldslinger CF flybar on Friday, its better to have one than need one and not have one.