Changing Brison Engines to Autoadvance
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (5)
Changing Brison Engines to Autoadvance
I am changing my Brison engines from the original mechanical advance to auto advance with the new CH ignitions. After resetting the ignition timing to 28 degrees before TDC in accordance with this video from Milton, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBXFpxWg7vY
I removed the button head screw near the sensor and replaced it with a ½ inch long socket head screw. The screw is jammed against the crankcase and is about 1/64 of an inch above the timing ring. I have tried to rotate the ring and dislodge the sensor with an awful lot of force and neither moved. I have also flown one engine like this for about twenty minutes with no issues. I got this method from Bill Cunningham, the founder of CH, a while ago. Has anyone else modified their Brisons this way? Dan.
I removed the button head screw near the sensor and replaced it with a ½ inch long socket head screw. The screw is jammed against the crankcase and is about 1/64 of an inch above the timing ring. I have tried to rotate the ring and dislodge the sensor with an awful lot of force and neither moved. I have also flown one engine like this for about twenty minutes with no issues. I got this method from Bill Cunningham, the founder of CH, a while ago. Has anyone else modified their Brisons this way? Dan.
#4
Senior Member
I am changing my Brison engines from the original mechanical advance to auto advance with the new CH ignitions. After resetting the ignition timing to 28 degrees before TDC in accordance with this video from Milton, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBXFpxWg7vY
I removed the button head screw near the sensor and replaced it with a ½ inch long socket head screw. The screw is jammed against the crankcase and is about 1/64 of an inch above the timing ring. I have tried to rotate the ring and dislodge the sensor with an awful lot of force and neither moved. I have also flown one engine like this for about twenty minutes with no issues. I got this method from Bill Cunningham, the founder of CH, a while ago. Has anyone else modified their Brisons this way? Dan.
I removed the button head screw near the sensor and replaced it with a ½ inch long socket head screw. The screw is jammed against the crankcase and is about 1/64 of an inch above the timing ring. I have tried to rotate the ring and dislodge the sensor with an awful lot of force and neither moved. I have also flown one engine like this for about twenty minutes with no issues. I got this method from Bill Cunningham, the founder of CH, a while ago. Has anyone else modified their Brisons this way? Dan.
BCCHI
#5
Senior Member
You can not no how little I really care.
BCCHI
#8
Senior Member
Have been flying the DL 35 RA sence they first came out. It is a monster engine. Put in Bowman ring done the reed treatment and the BC speed treatment.I no it will turn with the OS 33,don't no about DA yet.
I build my own ignitions of course.But RCEXL uses about the same timing,except for the #4 on the DL 20 and Xu Liang nos that is wrong but says that is what DL wanted.
Yes Adrian is a very sharp guy.
BCCHI AMA 2500
#9
My Feedback: (2)
Mine were converted years ago by the mfg in TX which I forgot the name... Just before he closed the business and sold it to a Canadian rc Shop...
I am changing my Brison engines from the original mechanical advance to auto advance with the new CH ignitions. After resetting the ignition timing to 28 degrees before TDC in accordance with this video from Milton, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GBXFpxWg7vY
I removed the button head screw near the sensor and replaced it with a ½ inch long socket head screw. The screw is jammed against the crankcase and is about 1/64 of an inch above the timing ring. I have tried to rotate the ring and dislodge the sensor with an awful lot of force and neither moved. I have also flown one engine like this for about twenty minutes with no issues. I got this method from Bill Cunningham, the founder of CH, a while ago. Has anyone else modified their Brisons this way? Dan.
I removed the button head screw near the sensor and replaced it with a ½ inch long socket head screw. The screw is jammed against the crankcase and is about 1/64 of an inch above the timing ring. I have tried to rotate the ring and dislodge the sensor with an awful lot of force and neither moved. I have also flown one engine like this for about twenty minutes with no issues. I got this method from Bill Cunningham, the founder of CH, a while ago. Has anyone else modified their Brisons this way? Dan.
#12
My Feedback: (2)
see my very old post...
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...mid-air-2.html
some more posts: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...-bearings.html
the guy fromTX was Garry
he sold the Brison to Kange at the time
the brison is based on a DOLMAR engines
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...mid-air-2.html
some more posts: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/gas-...-bearings.html
the guy fromTX was Garry
he sold the Brison to Kange at the time
the brison is based on a DOLMAR engines
Last edited by gadix; 09-01-2013 at 01:42 AM.
#14
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (5)
Thanks for the images Gadi. I see that the original button head screw is still installed next to the sensor and that another screw has been added to the timing ring. Is there only one additional screw? According to designer, that button head screw retains the sensor in place. Anything else won’t. On mine, I can’t budge that sensor with the socket head screw I have in there now that does not make contact with the ring. Dan.
#15
Senior Member
#16
My Feedback: (2)
the screw have 2 applications
1 to hold the ring in place after you adjust the TDC
2 to hold the sensor in place as it can move FW/BRW over the magnet
3 the ring is held by an C clip ring as well - look at the photo you will see it
the screw isnt 90 dgree to the shaft, it is in an angle so it put pressure on the sensor housing as well
gadi
1 to hold the ring in place after you adjust the TDC
2 to hold the sensor in place as it can move FW/BRW over the magnet
3 the ring is held by an C clip ring as well - look at the photo you will see it
the screw isnt 90 dgree to the shaft, it is in an angle so it put pressure on the sensor housing as well
gadi