scratchbuilder46

A neat trick with hairspray. I used the pump bottle type to adhere my .75 oz glass cloth to my fuse before epoxy. The trick is to place the cloth on dry, spray, then brush the cloth down. It becomes somewhat brittle when it drys and is easy the cut with shears or razor blade before the epoxy goes on. I usually start in the middle of the area to be glassed and pull the epoxy out with and old credit card or playing card. Much less sanding that way and a nice thin coat of epoxy.

JohnW

My Feedback: (6)

Some other tips on this subject. Spray adhesive also works for holding very light cloths in place. I'd suggest using the minimum of any non-epoxy substance necessary to control the cloth. I'd be concerned that excessive use would prevent the epoxy from wetting the cloth properly.

Credit cards work as screens. I’ve also used playing cards. You can often get a deck of the plastic covered cards for about a buck. If the part can’t be vacuum bagged to remove excess epoxy, blotting with paper towels or toilet paper will remove most of the excess epoxy.

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

If you use standard cheap laquer based hairspray on the balsa BEFORE you glass, it acts as a barrier coat and prevents the balsa from absorbing too much of the epoxy, and you save weight.

dhal22

i always use sanding sealer before glassing and i sure do love to use polycrilic instead of epoxy. the hairspray idea is a good one though. i will use it soon.

thx, david

Rick W

My Feedback: (20)

Dave,

I also use the same method you use with outstanding results. Good strong super lite finish. I also found I can use just about any type of finishing system on top of polycrylic. I've used everthing from lacquer to urathanes as a top coat.

Rick

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I too started using the sanding sealer and Poly U, so much lighter and easy to sand, comes out so much smoother then epoxy.

dhal22

i still see a lot of build threads with epoxy and glass. don't know why. although it takes several coats to fill in the glass weave, the poly is so easy i can apply another coat on the fuse or wing in a couple of minutes. rinse the foam brush with water and i'm done. i have been adding talcum powder to the poly after the 2 coat. fills in the weave a lot faster and i've taken to wet sanding the final coats. easy, slick, cheap and quick. ready for primer.

david

Ed Smith

At the expense of strength.

Ed S

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

If the weight isnt there, then the strength isn't as important. That's a debatable response.

The strength will still be there. The spray or sealer stops the deep soaking associated with thinner fluids. It still has a chance to grip to the pores of the wood.

Wings need longitudinal strength, not pull strength as if your trying to lift the glass straight off the wing. I think that is what your implying.

MX240

My Feedback: (4)

polycrylic???
Are we talking about something like Minwax or ??
Jim

dhal22

yes! minwax seems to be the poly of choice. it's what i use. i keep a full can for the 1st and 2nd coats, then i switch to a can 1/2 full heavily mixed with talcum powder. it fills the weave much faster and sands mirror smooth. i then add a final coat or 2 of straight poly, sand again and i'm ready for primer.

david

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

Would this be as durable as epoxy and glass? Wondering how well it would hold up on my rc boats with epoxy paint over it. Boats could use a diet also.

dasintex

My Feedback: (10)

David;

Would you use the Hairspray on the Balsa and cloth First, to hold the cloth in place?, then the Poly, right? and when you refer to the the Miniwax Poly, the water based stuff that you use as a final clear coat over stained wood, comes in either Gloss, Satin or flat right; which one do you use? another quick question, what weight of glass are we talking about?

Thanks.

NCFlash

Guys,
Take a look at Tom Pierce's website for info on waterbased Poly glassing. He gives a great step by step story on how he does his award winning war birds.
http://www.tompierce.net/rcplanes/

It's very similar to dahl22's method.

I'm using his technique on a TF Spit. So far so good.
NCFlash

dhal22

actually my method is similar to tom pierce's. that's were i got my process. this method is so easy. i can wet sand with 600 or a 1000 grit until i have a mirror smooth surface. i haven't used the hairspray method yet. sounds like a good idea for holding the glass around edges. sometimes its hard to keep the glass down while your applying the poly.

david

tlrascal

My Feedback: (56)

There is another use of hair spray. I use Aqua Net and I think it is like a water soluble laquer. After the fine sanding I spray the balsa with Aqua Net and this raises and stiffens all the tiny loose balsa fibers and then you can easily final sand them with 400 grit. Also helps seal the wood as mentioned. Main thing is it makes a the little nubs easy to sand off.

ll_jesse_ll

why people looking for other ways to stick the cloth to your subject befor applying epoxy or what ever? if your using epoxy, just get a small paint brush, brush a thin coat to your subject, lay down your cloth and apply some more epoxy to soak it in. that one light coat is plenty sticky enough to keep your cloth in place while your applying some more.

dhal22

there were other reasons for using this technique mentioned.

david

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

Glassing with polyurethane has about 50% of the weight of a resin job, but only about 60% of the strength (read this as "ding" resistance) of resin. Both methods will provide an excellent, durable surface for paint.

The pluses to using poly are: No Fumes, soap and water clean up, MUCH EASIER to sand, quick drying time and/or additional coat time, no "waxy" surface as are present with SOME resins.

I use this method on all the planes I glass. It takes a fantastic finish with (IMHO) a lot less work than resin.

Provided the hull is structurally sound (you are not using the glassing to stiffen the hull), I see no reason why it would not work. If you are using glow engines for power I would recommend coating the engine compartment with either a thinned epoxy solution OR clear butyrate (fuel proof) dope to prevent any glow fuel/residue from soaking into the wood.

camdyson

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tlrascal

My Feedback: (56)

This forum started asking about hair spray. Keep it on topic.

jaka

Hi!
Hairspray is totally unnecessary to use...just pour on some 24 hour laminating epoxy onto the glass and use a brush or a plastic spreader (like those from SIG or Flash) to spread the epoxy...it's soo easy!

LDM

My Feedback: (15)

back on hair spary , I think Tom used spray glue and then stated he would skip that step in the future because it does not allow you to smooth and pull the glass as much as its needed or can be pulled .