Turning brushless
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Turning brushless
I have a Tamiya m05. Looking into a brushless motor for some more get up and go. I have a lipo battery and have heard something about a cut off switch to not kill it. I'm pretty new so any ideas would be helpful . There is a battery warning on the car already...is that good enough...? and what is the reasons for that when going brushless?? Again totally new to this. Thanks for the help
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Oops lol
I have no idea what an esc is?!?! Lol my car has a beeper that starts beeping when the battery is at the point of needing to be recharged. What is a lipo cut off and an esc? And why is brushless with lipo so bad?? My budget is whatever needs to be have the most bad ass m05 out there lol. Thanks again
Last edited by fasterbetter; 06-18-2015 at 06:18 PM. Reason: forgot something
#4
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might be easier to post a pic of what you have. if I see what you have I can suggest some faster setups.
the beeper when the battery gets low is a low voltage alarm. that is good with lipo because if you discharge lipo too low they may be irreparably damaged.
brushless with lipo is GOOD - faster, more power more of everything you like.
esc is the electronic speed controller. that is what your battery plugs into and then it gets signal from the rx (receiver) and send those signals to the attached motor.
the beeper when the battery gets low is a low voltage alarm. that is good with lipo because if you discharge lipo too low they may be irreparably damaged.
brushless with lipo is GOOD - faster, more power more of everything you like.
esc is the electronic speed controller. that is what your battery plugs into and then it gets signal from the rx (receiver) and send those signals to the attached motor.
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Ok so I knew that with the lipo battery. Does a brushless motor suck more juice from the battery? Is that why u need an alarm?
And ok now I see my esc. Makes sense now. Here's some pics now...if u need something else or a better pic let me know.....Ummm I can't find where to post the pics?? Could u help me there too?
And ok now I see my esc. Makes sense now. Here's some pics now...if u need something else or a better pic let me know.....Ummm I can't find where to post the pics?? Could u help me there too?
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I'm on my phone and it won't open when i click the little icon. Do I have to be at a pc to use that or does a mobile work usually? It's the 3rd to the right with a little + sign right?
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So I figured it out lol u have to view the full site. Anyways that's what I have at this point. I don't mind spending the money to make it awesome and fast but I just want it to be tough. Any help would be useful. Thanks again tho!
#12
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it looks like you have standard tamiya gear in there. If you want a brushless motor you will also need a brushless esc. They do sell them in sets. here is an example of one that would make your car very quick http://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creatio.../dp/B00AQYMNE6 there are cheaper and of course more expensive. I have an older version of the sidewinder. I also have some Novak, LRP, Hobbywing, all good choices
You will have to search to find a lipo battery that fits well, as the battery compartment is rounded for nimh batteries.
You will have to search to find a lipo battery that fits well, as the battery compartment is rounded for nimh batteries.
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What do u mean search to find a lipo battery that fits well?? Wouldn't mine work fine in there? I have 2 at 7.4 volts? And I'm also seeing that the max is 7.2 volts??? What's the deal with the max being 7.2 volts?
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On all of the sites for brushless some say 7.2 volts is the max for the motors....can it burn them out if it's over? The esc controls the output to the motor so we should be ok right? And would an hpi fit a Tamiya body?
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Ok so I'm pretty sure I need a new differential because it's starting to sound pretty bad when I turn and accelerate. Now is there a few options to increase the durability and ACCELEREATION by swapping out the drive gears. What are all the bases I'll need to look for when buying one and can u suggest any brands or packages that would fit the brushless motor because they have to work together right? (fit). Thanks again for all your help man. Appreciate it!
Last edited by fasterbetter; 06-21-2015 at 09:52 AM. Reason: forgot a word lol
#18
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I am no expert on diffs, but I dont think you would have a diff issue due to turning. I cant offer advice on tuning or improving the diffs.
To increase acceleration you can fit a smaller pinion (small gear that attaches to motor) but that is at expense of top speed. You can increase top speed by increasing the size of the pinion at the expense of acceleration.
You can mix and match esc and motors to some extent. You do want to match sensored esc with sensored motors and sensorless esc with sensorless motors. The one I linked above is sensorless/unsensored. Sensored tends to be more expensive. It offers additional smoothness, particularly when starting out. Most guys that race prefer the sensored. I have some of both and have no real preference. The last one I bought was sensoreless, fwiw.
Some esc have a motor limit of how high kv it runs with or how low of turns it runs with. Every motor will have a few designations with it. Size ie: 540 or 36x50, some show the turns (turns of wire) like a 10.5 turn or a 4.5 or 25.5. Others instead of turns will tell the kv or revolutions per volt, the combo I posted above had a kv of 5700.
To increase acceleration you can fit a smaller pinion (small gear that attaches to motor) but that is at expense of top speed. You can increase top speed by increasing the size of the pinion at the expense of acceleration.
You can mix and match esc and motors to some extent. You do want to match sensored esc with sensored motors and sensorless esc with sensorless motors. The one I linked above is sensorless/unsensored. Sensored tends to be more expensive. It offers additional smoothness, particularly when starting out. Most guys that race prefer the sensored. I have some of both and have no real preference. The last one I bought was sensoreless, fwiw.
Some esc have a motor limit of how high kv it runs with or how low of turns it runs with. Every motor will have a few designations with it. Size ie: 540 or 36x50, some show the turns (turns of wire) like a 10.5 turn or a 4.5 or 25.5. Others instead of turns will tell the kv or revolutions per volt, the combo I posted above had a kv of 5700.
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Wow thanks for that information. Now 2 questions...
1. You said the one you linked is sensorless/uncensored...fwiw what does that fwiw mean?
2. With each motor designation...which is better for all the types...is higher typically better. I.e turns of wire...kv....or 5400....is the bigger number better in all cases power and speed wise?
3. Is it possible to have a good braking system and reverse???
Thank you so much by the way you have taught me a lot of things it would have taken a lot of time to find and read it seems like.
1. You said the one you linked is sensorless/uncensored...fwiw what does that fwiw mean?
2. With each motor designation...which is better for all the types...is higher typically better. I.e turns of wire...kv....or 5400....is the bigger number better in all cases power and speed wise?
3. Is it possible to have a good braking system and reverse???
Thank you so much by the way you have taught me a lot of things it would have taken a lot of time to find and read it seems like.
Last edited by fasterbetter; 06-21-2015 at 07:48 PM. Reason: messed up
#20
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fwiw = for what its worth. Just saying that the last one I bought was sensorless.
there really isnt a better, different motors for different applications. low turns and higher kv means faster speeds - typically desirable for onroad. higher turns and lower kv most associated with more torque and lower speeds. Although you can mix it up with 3s batteries and lower kv motors for good torque and speed, but that isnt really an onroad thing.
most escs can be programmed for good brakes and reverse.
there really isnt a better, different motors for different applications. low turns and higher kv means faster speeds - typically desirable for onroad. higher turns and lower kv most associated with more torque and lower speeds. Although you can mix it up with 3s batteries and lower kv motors for good torque and speed, but that isnt really an onroad thing.
most escs can be programmed for good brakes and reverse.
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And also can u tell me what is the more user friendly (assembling and tech I. E repairing etc...) brand of cars. I really like fast cars....but am looking for a tough tough truck for the daughter...she's 6 so I can't have rocket ship or she could really hurt someone or smash a 300 dollar toy to pieces in 30 seconds.
#24
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traxxas makes some monster trucks based on the Stampede. Pretty tough, pretty popular and traxxas comes stock with a 50% power setting for learning how to drive. Traxxas new is a little expensive. But one of the good things about traxxas is that almost every hobby store out there carries their parts.
Or you could pop a slow motor in just about anything.
Maybe a Tamiya Lunchbox would be fun, one of my boys has one, got it for him when he was 5 or 6.
Or you could pop a slow motor in just about anything.
Maybe a Tamiya Lunchbox would be fun, one of my boys has one, got it for him when he was 5 or 6.