2" band pipe
#1
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2" band pipe
Trying to decide between the WHH 2" band with 90 degree 3.5" offset and their exhaust manifold for dry pipes or CC racing Powermaster Pipe kit with 90 degree 3" offset for my BJ55.
Opinions, experiences?
Opinions, experiences?
#2
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RE: 2
actually i have a new in the bag CC 90 degree 3" offset header in the bag,new,i was going to use on my bj55. thats what i use on my bj55,i have a spare, but i'm transferring the guts into a conquest. i bought it for $18 plus ship. i'll sell it to you $20 shipped. i need to get a 105 degree header. if you need i also have a hansen 0 band rpm pipe that fits in the bj55 that i'll sell shipped for $65. no modifying neccessary.
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RE: 2
Thanks for the offer but I need a complete system from head to stinger so buying from one source due to shipping and customs is the way I need to go.
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RE: 2
The current header in the boat is 3.5" 90 degree and I'm able to get the cone middle point at 13" 1/4" from the flange on the cylinder head. The 2" band is supposed to be centered at 12" 1/2" so I should be able to fit it by enlarging the exit hole a bit.
I'll have to make a new support bracket but that's no big deal after all we have over 100 various CNC machines in the plant!
I'll have to make a new support bracket but that's no big deal after all we have over 100 various CNC machines in the plant!
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RE: 2
Pipes tune to the start of the rear cone. So if you have an aluminium 0 band pipe and replace it with a 2" band pipe the header needs to be 2" shorter. All the different measurements posted are a pain in the behind, if people just measured along the centerline to the start of the rear cone it would be a heck of a lot easier. Diameter and stinger length can factor into it as well.
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RE: 2
ORIGINAL: MrMikeG
. All the different measurements posted are a pain in the behind, if people just measured along the centerline to the start of the rear cone it would be a heck of a lot easier. Diameter and stinger length can factor into it as well.
. All the different measurements posted are a pain in the behind, if people just measured along the centerline to the start of the rear cone it would be a heck of a lot easier. Diameter and stinger length can factor into it as well.
Mart
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RE: 2
ORIGINAL: martno1fan
Here here ,allways measure arround the centreline of the header and pipe that way everyone would know the correct measurement your talking about,it annoys me when you see guys measuring in straight lines from edge of flange to cone this is where all the confusion starts because there are so many different headers nowadays ,1'' offsets 2'',3'' etc it all has to be taken into account when measuring the length.
Mart
ORIGINAL: MrMikeG
. All the different measurements posted are a pain in the behind, if people just measured along the centerline to the start of the rear cone it would be a heck of a lot easier. Diameter and stinger length can factor into it as well.
. All the different measurements posted are a pain in the behind, if people just measured along the centerline to the start of the rear cone it would be a heck of a lot easier. Diameter and stinger length can factor into it as well.
Mart
Daniel
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RE: 2
Thanks to all, As always I appreciate the help. I am currently at 13" and seem to have lost a little power, will be moving pipe in about a 1/2 ".
Thanks Randy
Thanks Randy
#17
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RE: 2
Moved in 1/2 " and still doesn't seem to be where it needs to be, how short can I move inward and get away with it or should I be backing the pipe up? Seems like it is taking to long for the gen 3 to get on the pipe, even droped down in prop. I am currently at 12 1/2" measuring center line from front of header flange to center of 2" band pipe. Also using 105% header.
Any idea?
Thanks Randy []
Any idea?
Thanks Randy []
#18
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RE: 2
It depends what motor your running is it stock or modded?,if modded id move it in till she comes on pipe i think mines at 11 1//2" on the hydro with a full mod 260 with stainless steel 90% header and a 2" ali pipe.Difference between 12 1/2" and 11 1/2" on mine was arround 10-15 mph at a conservative guess ,keep moving it in till you find the sweet spot.
Mart
Mart
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RE: 2
I dont run one now only the hydro at the moment but fastest so far with a gps was 52 mph that was with a mid mod zenoah.Havent gps'd the hydro yet as i had problems with the carb,i need to rebuild it and get her out again to get some readings.Ive only been boating 3 times this summer been too busy [].Havent even ran one of my own t boats yet either,every time i make one someone buys it .
Mart
Mart
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RE: 2
Painman,
keep moving the pipe in in 1/2 inch increments until you notice it picking up, then move it in in 1/4 inch increments until you notice it losing speed in the turns. Once it loses speed in the turns, back it out 1/4 to 1/2 inch until it holds it's revs & speed in the corner, then your pipe is tuned. All you need to do is trim away the excess header in the pipe, I cut mine to be 1/2 inch past the O-ring, some people leave more, you don't want more than 1 1/2 inch though.
hope that helps.
keep moving the pipe in in 1/2 inch increments until you notice it picking up, then move it in in 1/4 inch increments until you notice it losing speed in the turns. Once it loses speed in the turns, back it out 1/4 to 1/2 inch until it holds it's revs & speed in the corner, then your pipe is tuned. All you need to do is trim away the excess header in the pipe, I cut mine to be 1/2 inch past the O-ring, some people leave more, you don't want more than 1 1/2 inch though.
hope that helps.
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RE: 2
Thanks again all, I will be moving the pipe in some more. I have already cut header once and will cut again when I locate the sweet spot. Yes it is a full Mod Zen. and has plenty of power when it gets on the pipe. whish I had a GPS, might have to be my next investment.
Thanks Again;
Randy
Thanks Again;
Randy