Super-Hornet

Hi all

Today I manage to make my "Separate Component with GY240" has been successful!. Those who read my previous post on:
"My Stupidity and Itchy Finger Kill my EDF50B" and " My New Tail Section for Dragonfly", well this is so far what I modify and reroute/rearrange my Dragonfly structure and internal engine.

The tail section still not up to standard but hey... at least I can hover with it.

Here are the pictures:

helisfreak

My Feedback: (1)

How much weight did have you add on compare when it was stock? Since you almost MOD every single thing on your helicopter.. mind as well buy a milling machine and design your own... and maybe you can open a small business and sell quality part to us... , im getting sick with company making low quality part... and make u upgrade.... which upgrade part cost 10x more... ... and by the way.. if you can.. can you please draw or explain me how you wire your separate electronic...
thanks

Super-Hornet

Hi helisfreak

The Weight => I do not know... I don't have weighting maching. Did check out the price for a portable digital weighting machine and it cost S$100. It is definitely heavier than the original stock (Motor, Electronics, Tail Motor == Heavier than stock) but now i think it is lighter than my previous Fan Tail design. The Aluminium tubing is damn light. I don't have chemical for me to anonize the aluminium to make it stronger.

As for openning business... Who want to buy my crap design?

Anyway... My wiring desigin is similar to
http://www.helihobby.com/html/separate_electronics.html

It should not have problem with both ICS +ve pins connected to RX or Gyro but for mean time I took the +ve out of Main Motor ICS and use the Tail ICS to power the Gyro and RX since Tail draw less current than Main Motor

Super-Hornet

helisfreak

My Feedback: (1)

Nice...
Well.. i recently have mod some stuff on my aerohawk to... There was a plastic tube to hole the main axle and the pitch apart... that thing alway come lose and my heli start shaking... so I take out the plastic tube and put in a aluminium nut... and i just broke my rotor head the other day... lolz... bad crash... and i try to use super clue to put them together.. it seem to be ok.. untill i test it.. went full throttle.. blade almost smack in my head .... but then i use a aluminium tube and drill 2 hole, connect it to the main blade... just like a rail going across... and now.. the blade seem to be even more stablilize.... work great... Here is a picture.. hope u don't mind i post my mod in your thread... hehehe..

Super-Hornet

hi helisfreak

No problem at all.. U always are welcome to. BTW.... Nice design. Aluminium tubing for Head Stiffener? Well my first Head Stiffener design is using Aluminium tubing also. I now using 2nd HStiffener design. It is a bit heavier than aluminium but much stronger. It is 2 electrical wiring connector and a screw act as a rod. No picture yet because I still testing it.

Super-Hornet

helisfreak

My Feedback: (1)

hehehe... nice.. i will wait to see it...
btw...as my name say... heli FREAK.. kakaka.. mean i like to try out stupid stuff... and use part i have to make better heli.. I have a 20amp speed control that i use for my flying wing... and a few 400 speed motor speed... do you have any idea what I can use this stuff for on my aero hawk.. i was thinking to go separate... and use the 20amp speed control and the 400 speed motor on aero hawk... hahaha... you think that would work???

fact... 400 speed motor are much more heavy i think.. at least 20 gram more..

Super-Hornet

Hi helisfreak.... No sorry should be helli FREAK!!

The 400 motor shouldn't take more or even close to 20Amp.. so the ESC can use. If your 400 has a strong torque and speed, I don't think it has problem of lifting the chopper up. Going separate should not have problem with that combination BUT

Motor weight, heavier ESC... your current drawn should be very high....therefore flight time reduce.

Anyway... since u are a FREAK , no harm trying it right? Maybe it does fly very well.

Super-Hornet

blueprints

Hornet,
Where did u get e Antenna MOD? Its neater without e coild of long antenna wire loping around e skids.

helisfreak

My Feedback: (1)

do what i did... coil it arround the tail bar... save some money... you will need it for other stuff... hehehe. unless u rich..

helisfreak

My Feedback: (1)

SuperHornet... where did you buy all your electronic stuff from? gyro and esc? and what is the specification on your esc and gyro...

Super-Hornet

blueprints..So u from S'pore also. I got my "Rubber Duck Antenna" from some spare/junk from Sim Lim Tower. I think that antenna is use by some industrial device or cordless phone. They still left a few. I got it around S$2.50. I dismantle all the unnecessary component (Metal screw, outer rubber tubing and plastic screw) and then shield the flexible spring type metal coil with heat strink tubing.

Some website/forum actuall suggest NOT to coil around the tail boom or the landing skids. I think it is logical because both are make of Carbon Fiber...which is conductive by nature. It will interfere with your recieving signal.

helisfreak... I bought my GY240 and ICSs (ICS100E) from local hobby shop. I try not to do online order because the cost of transportation + price may end up to be too expensive than to buy from LHS.

Ok.. My Main Motor is EM300 (Mabuchi RK-370SD). I'm using 10Teeth pinion and it should take around 6Amp. Tail motor is CN12-RLC and should take around 2Amp (all this with load value). So u will need ESC with current rating of 5~8Amp for main and 2~4Amp for the tail. That is ICS100 and ICS50. The local hobby shop i visited only left ICS100E (E = AutoCutoff at 3.2V. No E = 4.2), so I purchase 2. The GY240 also purchase from the same hobby shop. To go separate, u need ESC for tail motor and Main motor (If brushles... still the same.. ESC but for brushless). If you do not have "Revo Mix" capable TX, u need Heading Hold Gyro (Some even have Revo Mix but they turn it off and use HHold instead).

Here are the parts and price
ICS100E = S$28.00
GY240 = S$185.00 (Some shop selling at S$170 but out of stock at that time)

Why I choose those electronics component is because it is good and available in Singapore. U may choose other compatible type if you wish to.

Super-Hornet

helisfreak

My Feedback: (1)

What is Revo mix? and head lock gyro anyway? i think i should change my name to heli morron... hahaa

Super-Hornet

In simple explaination, revo mix (Revolution mixing?) is like having a mixer in your TX. The TX onboard microcontroller or microprocessor will come out a necessary value for your rudder based on the current value of your throttle. (just like what your mixer do).

heading hold or heading lock.... think of it such a way that the gyro will dynamically adjust its own center/neutral value.

Here is the link to GY240 user manual in english:
http://www.futaba-rc.com/manuals/futm0809-manual.pdf

Super-Hornet

helisfreak

My Feedback: (1)

on my tx... i think i have the wing mix, delta, and v-tail mix? can any of this work?

Super-Hornet

Hi helisfreak I not sure about all those "wing mix, delta, and v-tail mix". I'm still using a plain standard 4 ch GWS TX. I leave this to those can answer for you...Sorry

Super-Hornet

bdesh123

hI GUYS I AM PLANING TO GO SEPERATE. SO NEED SOME HELP HERE. i HAVE TWO escS ELECTRIC FLY C-10 10AMP. dO U THINK I CAN USE ONE FOR TAIL AND ONE FOR MAIN ROTOR. i AM ALSO PLANING TO BUY A MOTOR, WHICH ONE SHOULD I GO FOR, SPEED400. WILL THE eSC SUPPORT THE MOTOR. aLSO . WITH 10A HOW MANY BATTARY CELL I CAN USE 8-10CELL RIGHT. i HAVE HLG 2000 LIGHTENED HH GYRO. PLEASE HELP ME OUT HERE.. AN OTHER HELI MORON ON UR POST HA.. KAK HAAHH
THANKS GUYS APPRICATE IT
TAK CARE
SAMI

Super-Hornet

Hi Sami

Your ESC should be able to use for the tail motor... so long as your motor do not exceed the max current of your ESC.

I have no experience on SPEED400 motor so no comment on this. (Personally... I think should be ok also but the weight is abit high)

Your ESC is rated 10Amp but that doesn't mean it will take/drawn 10Amp regardless of your motor. Check your ESC to see whether can it withstand 10Cell or not. You might want to go for Li-Polymer or at least Li-Ion to reduce the weight.

Super-Hornet

bdesh123

thanks man . Apriciate it. I will be working on that this weekend .I think i will be able to use 8 cell nihm or 2 cell li-poly/ion. looking for some good deals on li ploy .. ne suggestion and i am going for orion elite modified motor . what do u think of it
thanks again. appriciate ur help
sami

helisfreak

My Feedback: (1)

Im looking at that orion motor to, but i was wonder how much different can it make.. did u ever look at the Brushless mega? I mean the Orien is 54 dollar anyway.. the mega is 89, but then u need to separate and need all kind of stuff... lol.. Im not sure if the my aerohawk really need a brushless motor....

Super-Hornet

Hi Sami

I never see that motor before. The website looks like it doesn't have any technical spec. Here is the possible technical spec i got it from other forum:
Elite Modified Technical Data
Watt: 5
No load Speed: 6.0 Volt 17820 rpm - 7,2 Volt 21384 rpm
Stall Torque: 29.7 mNm
Terminal resistance: 0,325 Ohm
Efficiency: 87%
Magnet: Neodym
Commutator: 9 segments
Brushes: Precious metal
Weight: 42g
Length: 28,9 mm
Diameter: 21mm

In terms of speed, it is fast. I think its magnet also strong. Should be a good motor.

If your really want power and realibility and efficient, go for brushless instead.

Super-Hornet

bdesh123

thanks much. But does the brushless motor burn out? like other motor. dont have ne idea about brushless. No website give you the information on warrenty and how long it may last.. and the ESC's r expensive too... what you think we should do.. I have Electric flyc-10 ESc's. So I can go seperate... but still need to spent $$130 for brushleess.. and orion is $$54.. I know I am bugging u Super Hornet.. but I will really appriciate your honest suggestion.
and thanks for the info on the motor
tak care

HB flyer

hi bdesh123...
i use my electric fly 10 on my parkflyer plane...just wanna let you know that everytime you connect the battery pack, you have to push the throttle stick to the full throttle position then pull back the stick to the lowest position to arm the esc! you better read the instruction manual for more informations.

HB Flyer

Super-Hornet

Hi Sami

In proper usage of brushes motor, the wear and tear will be the brushes. Other parts that will wear out also is the bearning but this take quite some time before it star wearing out. Most small motor do not use ball bearning and they just use brash ring as a bearning.

In brushless motor, the only moving contact point is the ball bearing (even smaller motor just uses brash bearing also but that is normally use in floppy drive or anything that are small). So in proper usage of brushless motor, the only thing that wear out is the bearing. Again.. this take very long time to reach there.

So... if you go brushless, and proper usage will normally last you very long time. Brushless motors are more efficient than brushes motor also.

BTW... if you really good at it, you might develop/rebuild your own brushless motor out of CDROM Drive or Floppy Drive.

Super-Hornet

bdesh123

Hi Super Hornet. Thanks again. I think your explanation is perfect . and inspiring. I am going for brushless motor. astro010 with ESC cost around 125$$. thanks a again. but another problem cant effort the Li-poly right now. do u think Nihm will be alright .. for brusless
thanks again take care
sami

Super-Hornet

Motor and and ESC do not care what battery u using so long as your NiMH can provide enough juice (But don't go above its stated voltage value). If your Astro motor + controller is lighter or equal to what u have now.. i don't see any reason NiMH cannot power it. Heck u might get longer flight time than what u have due to brushless is more efficient than brushes.

BTW... U are welcome. You take care also. Happy flying.

Super-Hornet