Custom Modified Tamiya Leopard 2A6.
07-18-2023, 08:34 PM
#1
Custom Modified Desert Camouflage Tamiya Leopard 2A6.
Built almost 10 years ago. The Tamiya Leopard 2A6 parts upgrade list: I used these parts for my build to make it a better, more reliable runner. The kit tracks are used, they run great. Opinion: The metal tracks add to much weight; wear and tear to the tank’s drive train based on past operating experience.
Upgrade Parts.
• Tamiya Battle Unit.
• Tamiya Stabilization Unit.
• Tamiya detailed main gun metal barrel.
Note: I used these no longer available parts, but DKLM may have similar parts.
• Impact metal suspension arms, a must have.
• Impact road wheel bearings.
• Impact metal idler assembly.
• AFV metal turret baskets.
• AFV small metal handles.
• Important: Nicely routed turret wiring.
• Note: If you spec the Tamiya Gun Stabilization Unit, Tamiya USA tech’s during the build era recommended using a Futaba SkySport FM RC Radio Transmitter (with left self-centering stick option) and Receiver. Why? A 2.4 rc radio will not operate the Tamiya Stabilization Unit. Today I would use the newer/updated Tamiya Fine Spec Radio.
Daryl Turner customized the hull, deck lift and relocated the battery to the hull. I still have this model. Like new old model.
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 07-18-2023 at 08:53 PM.
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Hackworth (07-20-2023)
07-19-2023, 12:41 AM
#2
You missed out on the loader's MG3 gun.
DKLM now sell stainless steel suspension arms. It is a better material and so is more costly, but Impact's cast arms work just fine and are durable.
My Leopards use AFV's idler arms, because they run AFV's hull reinforcement kit and Impact's idler assembly isn't compatible. I don't think the hull reinforcement kit is needed actually, its just added weight.
It always bugged me that the Leopard has rubber tires for its roadwheels but skimped on it for the return idler, which is arguably the most heavily loaded. I bought a set of these from King Kong RC on eBay. However note that the nut count of the idler wheels is different from the cast details of the stock plastic idler wheels. (yes I am being a rivet/nut-counter)
Could be useful to get these return rollers if you were building a Leopard from ground up, as some of the stock plastic ones are merely glued to the hull and are prone to falling off.
DKLM now sell stainless steel suspension arms. It is a better material and so is more costly, but Impact's cast arms work just fine and are durable.
My Leopards use AFV's idler arms, because they run AFV's hull reinforcement kit and Impact's idler assembly isn't compatible. I don't think the hull reinforcement kit is needed actually, its just added weight.
It always bugged me that the Leopard has rubber tires for its roadwheels but skimped on it for the return idler, which is arguably the most heavily loaded. I bought a set of these from King Kong RC on eBay. However note that the nut count of the idler wheels is different from the cast details of the stock plastic idler wheels. (yes I am being a rivet/nut-counter)
Could be useful to get these return rollers if you were building a Leopard from ground up, as some of the stock plastic ones are merely glued to the hull and are prone to falling off.
Last edited by cleong; 07-19-2023 at 12:43 AM.
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Pcomm1.v2 (07-19-2023)
07-19-2023, 04:27 AM
#3
I agree, your correct about the kit hull being probably strong enough without metal hull bracing. The Tamiya 1/16 Leopard 2A6 is designed as an RC Presentation Model, was the word going around when the kit was first released. What followed was an aftermarket of parts designed to make the kit a solid TBU performer. A feature I lke best is the ease of swapping the battery in this model. The turret does not need to be opened up.
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 07-19-2023 at 12:18 PM.
07-19-2023, 06:40 AM
#4
Can't quite see the purpose of what appears to be the removal of the Speaker Box in favor of the aftermarket Bars/Stringers... Not only are you reducing the quality of the sound you're most definitely reducing the rigidity you get from the upper and lower portions of the Chassis interlocking all around the Chassis Filling Speaker Box acting as a Torsion Box - IMHO, you basically just bought into bling for no if even detriment gain.
I'm leaning myself out of the window here assuming you're now putting the Battery into the Chassis since you mentioned to no longer being required to opening up the Turret for its removal which is like ( a no Tools requiring ) flipping open of the Turret Side Armor Panels, twisting open and removing the underlying Locks and lifting the Upper half of the Turret? All of which is requiring zero effort? 🤔 If my assumption with you now storing the Batteries inside the Chassis holds true you now either need Tools to access them ( akin to how it works with the M26 Pershing which is a R.P.I.T.A. ) or you're just loosely fitting the Upper half of the Chassis onto the Lower one further degrading the torsional rigidity of the Chassis 🤨
That being said... I do agree with the purchase of aftermarket Metal Swing Arms for the model. The ones on mine held up for a surprising many years ( Immediately got mine when it was first released ) but in the end they did start to break and while I too own a bunch of aftermarket parts like Metal Wheels none of them are as essential for the Long Term viability of that model than the Metal Swing Arms.
I'm leaning myself out of the window here assuming you're now putting the Battery into the Chassis since you mentioned to no longer being required to opening up the Turret for its removal which is like ( a no Tools requiring ) flipping open of the Turret Side Armor Panels, twisting open and removing the underlying Locks and lifting the Upper half of the Turret? All of which is requiring zero effort? 🤔 If my assumption with you now storing the Batteries inside the Chassis holds true you now either need Tools to access them ( akin to how it works with the M26 Pershing which is a R.P.I.T.A. ) or you're just loosely fitting the Upper half of the Chassis onto the Lower one further degrading the torsional rigidity of the Chassis 🤨
That being said... I do agree with the purchase of aftermarket Metal Swing Arms for the model. The ones on mine held up for a surprising many years ( Immediately got mine when it was first released ) but in the end they did start to break and while I too own a bunch of aftermarket parts like Metal Wheels none of them are as essential for the Long Term viability of that model than the Metal Swing Arms.
07-19-2023, 08:20 AM
#5
Apparently you didn't look closely at the photos. He has the Daryl Turner clam shell system for accessing the lower Hull. No tools required. Imex/Taigen has that system on their JS2, And they freely admit that they copied it from DT. It's a great system and I wish all my tanks had it.
07-19-2023, 11:21 AM
#6
“Can't quite see the purpose of what appears to be the removal of the Speaker Box in favor of the aftermarket Bars/Stringers... Not only are you reducing the quality of the sound you're most definitely reducing the rigidity you get from the upper and lower portions of the Chassis interlocking all around the Chassis Filling Speaker Box acting as a Torsion Box - IMHO, you basically just bought into bling for no if even detriment gain.
I'm leaning myself out of the window here assuming you're now putting the Battery into the Chassis since you mentioned to no longer being required to opening up the Turret for its removal which is like ( a no Tools requiring ) flipping open of the Turret Side Armor Panels, twisting open and removing the underlying Locks and lifting the Upper half of the Turret? All of which is requiring zero effort? 🤔 If my assumption with you now storing the Batteries inside the Chassis holds true you now either need Tools to access them ( akin to how it works with the M26 Pershing which is a R.P.I.T.A. ) or you're just loosely fitting the Upper half of the Chassis onto the Lower one further degrading the torsional rigidity of the Chassis 🤨
That being said... I do agree with the purchase of aftermarket Metal Swing Arms for the model. The ones on mine held up for a surprising many years ( Immediately got mine when it was first released ) but in the end they did start to break and while I too own a bunch of aftermarket parts like Metal Wheels none of them are as essential for the Long Term viability of that model ”
Hi, Drop in and you can run this Tamiya Leo 2, hear it and prove your theories wrong.
Good news, turret access is per the Tamiya Leopard Assembly Instructions and as per Durahl’s accurate turret access description. “Just don’t have to do that anymore” plus the DMD access hatch at turret top rear is custom hinged; so I will not lose it. 👍 John
I'm leaning myself out of the window here assuming you're now putting the Battery into the Chassis since you mentioned to no longer being required to opening up the Turret for its removal which is like ( a no Tools requiring ) flipping open of the Turret Side Armor Panels, twisting open and removing the underlying Locks and lifting the Upper half of the Turret? All of which is requiring zero effort? 🤔 If my assumption with you now storing the Batteries inside the Chassis holds true you now either need Tools to access them ( akin to how it works with the M26 Pershing which is a R.P.I.T.A. ) or you're just loosely fitting the Upper half of the Chassis onto the Lower one further degrading the torsional rigidity of the Chassis 🤨
That being said... I do agree with the purchase of aftermarket Metal Swing Arms for the model. The ones on mine held up for a surprising many years ( Immediately got mine when it was first released ) but in the end they did start to break and while I too own a bunch of aftermarket parts like Metal Wheels none of them are as essential for the Long Term viability of that model ”
Hi, Drop in and you can run this Tamiya Leo 2, hear it and prove your theories wrong.
Good news, turret access is per the Tamiya Leopard Assembly Instructions and as per Durahl’s accurate turret access description. “Just don’t have to do that anymore” plus the DMD access hatch at turret top rear is custom hinged; so I will not lose it. 👍 John
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 07-20-2023 at 01:44 AM.
07-19-2023, 11:40 AM
#7
The key Daryl Turner devices for the Tamiya 1/16 Leopard 2A6.
The hull interior. Battery relocated to inside the hull interior.
The battery placed in the turret per Tamiya Instructions will warp it over time; result, turret sags and rubs on the tank deck. Also, no more messing with turret wires during battery swaps.
The brilliant Daryl Turner engineered 1/16 Tamiya Leopard 2A6 lift deck device. No tools required to use. Just lift up and or lower to close. Magnets hold the forward deck in place; tight to the glacis plate (lower hull).
The hull interior. Battery relocated to inside the hull interior.
The battery placed in the turret per Tamiya Instructions will warp it over time; result, turret sags and rubs on the tank deck. Also, no more messing with turret wires during battery swaps.
The brilliant Daryl Turner engineered 1/16 Tamiya Leopard 2A6 lift deck device. No tools required to use. Just lift up and or lower to close. Magnets hold the forward deck in place; tight to the glacis plate (lower hull).
Last edited by Pcomm1.v2; 07-19-2023 at 08:06 PM.
The following users liked this post:
Hackworth (07-20-2023)
07-19-2023, 09:50 PM
#9
“akin to how it works with the M26 Pershing which is a R.P.I.T.A”. Durahl’s statement.
In regards to the Tamiya RC Pershing battery swap; it is not friendly. Agreed. My solution was to not use the light harness and only deal with the removal of the left and right rear screws to access lifting the upper deck up to swap out tank batteries. Though past that objection, my opinion of the kit is that it is/was one of Tamiya’s best RC Tank designs.
Pershing 1.
Pershing 2.
In regards to the Tamiya RC Pershing battery swap; it is not friendly. Agreed. My solution was to not use the light harness and only deal with the removal of the left and right rear screws to access lifting the upper deck up to swap out tank batteries. Though past that objection, my opinion of the kit is that it is/was one of Tamiya’s best RC Tank designs.
Pershing 1.
Pershing 2.
