Lanier 1/3 Laser 200
11-29-2002, 08:48 PM
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Lanier 1/3 Laser 200
I have just finished the ARF of this kit. The weather has preempted any flights so far, but the plane is light and straight. I'm certain it will fly well. I would have "beefed up" the landing gear mounting plate if I had built the plane. Other than that, no changes would have been made.
I feel that I could not have built this model for the price of the ARF, and covered and painted it. In addition, it looks very good, and probably looks better than it would have, had I done all the work.
I'll bet you like the plane a lot. I have a 3.2 Sachs on mine, and that should suit my flying abilities well.
Bill Johnson
I feel that I could not have built this model for the price of the ARF, and covered and painted it. In addition, it looks very good, and probably looks better than it would have, had I done all the work.
I'll bet you like the plane a lot. I have a 3.2 Sachs on mine, and that should suit my flying abilities well.
Bill Johnson
11-29-2002, 08:52 PM
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Lanier 1/3 Laser 200
I have seen one (kit) fly with a Q75. Flies like a big, well-designed aerobat should - "The Big Easy." It's well-mannered, although it comes in with a little speed. Not that it's difficult to land, but it takes a little extra room.
11-30-2002, 05:18 AM
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30% laser
Hi, I'm actualy in the process of building one now. "Kit" Last summer was my first year in 3D with a Goldberg sukhoi made for a a 2 cycle 90 that I modified for a os 160 fx. I went over board with the throw on the elevator and I had a ball ..
for the Laser I took on me to enlarge the rudder " 232 style" and I made the elevator a lot bigger " I have photos if you 'r interested. I'm also increasing the with and the lenght of the elerons . I' planing to install booster tab on all surfaces..
I replaced the abs turtle deck whit one made of longerons.
for your info. I have been able to istall a 32 oz tank abov the all. spare and I also have and other 32 oz underneath the servos floor for smoke . Can't answer your questionjuntill next spring but I'v got good hope..
some one told me that he coul'nt make his do a thumble so that 's why I over sized . it must be like they say for the engines " it' never to big "..
for the Laser I took on me to enlarge the rudder " 232 style" and I made the elevator a lot bigger " I have photos if you 'r interested. I'm also increasing the with and the lenght of the elerons . I' planing to install booster tab on all surfaces..
I replaced the abs turtle deck whit one made of longerons.
for your info. I have been able to istall a 32 oz tank abov the all. spare and I also have and other 32 oz underneath the servos floor for smoke . Can't answer your questionjuntill next spring but I'v got good hope..
some one told me that he coul'nt make his do a thumble so that 's why I over sized . it must be like they say for the engines " it' never to big "..
12-05-2002, 06:08 PM
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Lanier 1/3 Laser 200
I flew mine all summer and it is excellent as a normal aerobatic (no 3D) flier. Mine is equipped with a G62 and weighs 22 pounds. I did strengthen the landing gear area for obvious reasons. The cg shown caused me to add lots of weight to the tail at first, but all (12 oz.) was gradually removed and it flies great. The G62 is a good match and has substantial vertical, but I would not go to anything smaller. Landings are routine with no bad tendencies noticed. Mine has about 50 flights and is waiting for warm weather again.
12-07-2002, 05:45 PM
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Lanier 1/3 Laser 200
Zurac,
I should have mentioned that the Laser I have is an ARF and the light ply in the landing gear area is not only too light, but also has lightening holes throughout that area. I doubled the light ply and also reinforced the area with spruce cross braces. The ARF is light for the size which makes it great to fly but the fuse is weak in several areas. However, I've flown it quite a bit and haven't had any structural problems.
I should have mentioned that the Laser I have is an ARF and the light ply in the landing gear area is not only too light, but also has lightening holes throughout that area. I doubled the light ply and also reinforced the area with spruce cross braces. The ARF is light for the size which makes it great to fly but the fuse is weak in several areas. However, I've flown it quite a bit and haven't had any structural problems.
12-08-2002, 05:22 AM
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Lanier 1/3 Laser 200
I have been flying a built up laser with a ZDZ 80 in it all summer, unfortunately the wings rock pretty badly trying to do harriers even with spoilerons. it snaps when trying to do walls unless you ease somewhat gently in the elevator. torque rolls at about 1/3 throttle and generally not a bad flying plane but not really good for 3D type flying :disappoin .
Lou
Lou
12-10-2002, 09:34 PM
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Lanier 1/3 Laser 200
I would agree that there are better choices if you want to do 3D. The Laser 200 is an older design designed before the time of 3D flying. It is also rather heavily built by today's standards. Mine came in at 24 lb with a 3W 60 on the nose. It is rock steady flying pattern, but I suspect 3D would be a handful.
Gerry Rosebery
Gerry Rosebery
12-17-2002, 04:59 PM
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Lanier 1/3 Laser 200
I built and flew the ARF version this summer. It is powerwd buy a 3W70 turning a 24X10 Menz prop. It was easy building and is a joy to fly. I would recommend it to any first time flyers of this type of aircraft. It has no bad habits and will make you look better then you are.
Gil Schwalb
Gil Schwalb
12-17-2002, 06:56 PM
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Lanier 1/3 Laser 200
I am in the process of completing a built up kit of this plane. I have found the kit to be some what antiquated in it's building techniques but all in all not a bad choice of kits. I have made some major and minor changes to the kit to satisfy my likes and dislikes for kits.
1) Removed all ABS parts. I bought a fiberglass cowl and wheel pants and I built up the turtle deck using formers and sticks. The built up turtle deck removed some of the inherent twisting in this fuse design and strengthened the fuse. I did the same with the wing cover.
2) Overbuilt the landing gear plate and surrounding area to strengthen that area. I used plenty of triangle stock and epoxy to add strength to that area. From other feedback about this plane this was one area of weakness everyone mentioned.
3) Removed rudder servo from tail and used a pull/pull system with a large servo mounted on rails in the fuse just behind the cockpit. Made access hatch to access servo from the underside of the fuse.
4) Put dual hinge bevels on the ailerons and elevators and found the rudder had plenty of throw according to the plans.
5) Mounted cowl using cowl blocks to hide screws inside cowl.
6) Used a piece of Phenolic wing tube inside the fuse to stop the wear and tear on the fuse sides with wing tube removal.
7) Mounted fuel tanks (used 2-16oz tanks versus 1 32 oz) right over wing tube to be on CG.
8) Smoke tank is located under fuse floor right behind landing gear. Made access hatch to access smoke tank and smoke equipment.
9) Used the new Dubro 866 Control Horns on all surfaces. Had to purchase a long 8-32 bolt for rudder. These control horns were mounted in Hardwood dowels that were glued into control surfaces using polyurethane glue.
10) Shortened the engine box to accomodate a ZDZ80 and keep the carb out of the fuse. Used an engine mount similar to engine stand-offs to mount engine. ZDZ ignition is mounted under engine box on vibration dampening mount.
11) Instead of balsa end caps on the wingtips and aileron tips I used 1/8" aircraft ply. Stands up better to hangar rash.
12) I had to add standoffs on my elevator servos as they were too deep and hit one another inside the fuse. 1/4" aircraft plywood machined to match the fuse angle worked here.
13) I used Du Bro 4-40 Swivel ball links and Du-Bro Extra Strength Servo Control Arms on all servos.
14) I used Hitec 945MG Servos in the wings, 645MG servos for the elevators with one of the servos reversed so I do not have to use a reversing y cord and a Hitec 805BB for the rudder. Throttle uses a 425BB and smoke system is plugged into gear channel
15) ZDZ80 Single uses a Bisson Pitts style muffler and is relatively quiet. Using an MSC 25-10 prop. Also have Mejzlik 24-10 3 blade to try once I get it dialed in.
16) Using a Futaba T6APS PCM radio with an R138DP receiver.
17) On the wheel pants I used the Sig mounting system as compared to the Lanier plans. Added a little weigh but I run off a grass field and I wanted the added strength.
18) On the aft fuse formers I added cross bracing to add a little extra strength.
19) To hold the wings in place I did not use the suggested method, I sank dowels into the foam cores and drilled a 1/4 X 20 holes into the dowels. To hold the wings in place I use nylon wing bolts with 1/8 Aircraft plywood back plates through the fuse sides. Much easier and much stronger.
If you have any other questions send me an email to [email protected]
1) Removed all ABS parts. I bought a fiberglass cowl and wheel pants and I built up the turtle deck using formers and sticks. The built up turtle deck removed some of the inherent twisting in this fuse design and strengthened the fuse. I did the same with the wing cover.
2) Overbuilt the landing gear plate and surrounding area to strengthen that area. I used plenty of triangle stock and epoxy to add strength to that area. From other feedback about this plane this was one area of weakness everyone mentioned.
3) Removed rudder servo from tail and used a pull/pull system with a large servo mounted on rails in the fuse just behind the cockpit. Made access hatch to access servo from the underside of the fuse.
4) Put dual hinge bevels on the ailerons and elevators and found the rudder had plenty of throw according to the plans.
5) Mounted cowl using cowl blocks to hide screws inside cowl.
6) Used a piece of Phenolic wing tube inside the fuse to stop the wear and tear on the fuse sides with wing tube removal.
7) Mounted fuel tanks (used 2-16oz tanks versus 1 32 oz) right over wing tube to be on CG.
8) Smoke tank is located under fuse floor right behind landing gear. Made access hatch to access smoke tank and smoke equipment.
9) Used the new Dubro 866 Control Horns on all surfaces. Had to purchase a long 8-32 bolt for rudder. These control horns were mounted in Hardwood dowels that were glued into control surfaces using polyurethane glue.
10) Shortened the engine box to accomodate a ZDZ80 and keep the carb out of the fuse. Used an engine mount similar to engine stand-offs to mount engine. ZDZ ignition is mounted under engine box on vibration dampening mount.
11) Instead of balsa end caps on the wingtips and aileron tips I used 1/8" aircraft ply. Stands up better to hangar rash.
12) I had to add standoffs on my elevator servos as they were too deep and hit one another inside the fuse. 1/4" aircraft plywood machined to match the fuse angle worked here.
13) I used Du Bro 4-40 Swivel ball links and Du-Bro Extra Strength Servo Control Arms on all servos.
14) I used Hitec 945MG Servos in the wings, 645MG servos for the elevators with one of the servos reversed so I do not have to use a reversing y cord and a Hitec 805BB for the rudder. Throttle uses a 425BB and smoke system is plugged into gear channel
15) ZDZ80 Single uses a Bisson Pitts style muffler and is relatively quiet. Using an MSC 25-10 prop. Also have Mejzlik 24-10 3 blade to try once I get it dialed in.
16) Using a Futaba T6APS PCM radio with an R138DP receiver.
17) On the wheel pants I used the Sig mounting system as compared to the Lanier plans. Added a little weigh but I run off a grass field and I wanted the added strength.
18) On the aft fuse formers I added cross bracing to add a little extra strength.
19) To hold the wings in place I did not use the suggested method, I sank dowels into the foam cores and drilled a 1/4 X 20 holes into the dowels. To hold the wings in place I use nylon wing bolts with 1/8 Aircraft plywood back plates through the fuse sides. Much easier and much stronger.
If you have any other questions send me an email to [email protected]
12-19-2002, 03:41 AM
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1/3 Scale Laser
Hi:
I have been flying a 1/3 scale laser for almost 3 years now.
Built it from the kit, and have been fortunate enough to win 4 aerobatic events now.
It flies great with a good old G62.
Building it took me about 3 months of work.
I coveralled it and painted with chromabase. (I own a body shop)
When covered and painted this way it took no weight to the tail, and it weighed in at 23 1/2 pounds.
I have never done any additional strengthening to the landing gear. And so far I have never had a problem with it.
Landing it is a bit different from smaller aircraft.
You need to keep about half throttle until end of runway at about 50 feet alt. and then chop the throttle. It comes in great, and slows down fast. It is deceptional at first until you learn to keep the power on a little longer then the smaller planes.
This a a great plane to begin giant scale with. Good luck to you.
I am currently flying a 1/3 scale pitts and having a blast with it too.
Rod
I have been flying a 1/3 scale laser for almost 3 years now.
Built it from the kit, and have been fortunate enough to win 4 aerobatic events now.
It flies great with a good old G62.
Building it took me about 3 months of work.
I coveralled it and painted with chromabase. (I own a body shop)
When covered and painted this way it took no weight to the tail, and it weighed in at 23 1/2 pounds.
I have never done any additional strengthening to the landing gear. And so far I have never had a problem with it.
Landing it is a bit different from smaller aircraft.
You need to keep about half throttle until end of runway at about 50 feet alt. and then chop the throttle. It comes in great, and slows down fast. It is deceptional at first until you learn to keep the power on a little longer then the smaller planes.
This a a great plane to begin giant scale with. Good luck to you.
I am currently flying a 1/3 scale pitts and having a blast with it too.
Rod
