jlrskymaster

My Feedback: (1)

I am building the Marataka Cessna Skymaster and this is the first kit I have built with a fully sheeted wing (previous ones had open framework). I put the bottom sheeting on just fine, since I can reach in through the ribs from the top and glue everything together.

But, now it is time to put the top sheeting on. How do I apply the glue and hold the sheeting down over the curve of the ribs?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

suthep

There are two options of doing top sheeting:-

1. Using medium CA. Spread it on ribs and spars then press the presoaked sheet on. Hold it down with your hands for few minutes. That will be firmly glued on.

2. Using wood glue. Do the same as 1. but you have to pin, strap or weight it down overnight until the glue set.

You may use the combination of the above 1 and 2 method. Avoid using CA on the leading edge and some other area where paper sanding will be needed later.

Flyboy Dave

My Feedback: (21)

I glue the top sheeting on first, because it's easier to get
undernieth and get it glued real good, and it can be pressed
down by hand....good and flat.

I do the bottom last....it doesn't have to be as perfect as the top,
for looks....and the bottom is usually not as curved as the top, and securing it down is not as hard to do.

I'll put wood glue everywhere it needs to be, and then hold
the sheeting down with #64 (I think) rubber bands....one
placed over each rib, and let it set overnight.

Sometimes it helps to dampen the outside of the sheeting
slightly with a water spray bottle in the hard to bend areas.

Dave.

Jimmbbo

Agree about doing the top sheeting first, and with dampening the outer surface of the sheet.

If you're going to be doing a lot of sheeted wings, consider using #6 lead buckshot "pillows". #6 buckshot is available at your local gun store in 50 lb bags (a lifetime supply for at least three modelers)... Plus, when mixed with epoxy and stuffed in a proper corner, it works well for balancing an airplane.

Put the shot in ziploc bags sized to your normal projects, fill the bag about halfway, zip it closed and tape it shut - repeat till you have enough bags. This will give you a bunch of lead shot "pillows" that form nicely to most any surface, are heavy enough to hold the balsa evenly to the structure, and glue will not stick to them.

Starting at the mid-chord of the spar, I brush on aliphatic resin (AR) spanwise on the forward half of the spar, and using a small syringe, put a bead of glue on the ribs that will be under the sheeet to be laid. I start sheeting laying the balsa forward from the spar because it can often be done with a single sheet, but it can be done forward or aft. Using the spar gives a solid base to start with, and usually the spar is straight, as the edge of the balsa should be.

When the sheet is laid on the ribs, place a few pins through the balsa ino the spar to hold it in place. Lay down enough pillows over the rib locations to cover the ribs you just sheeted. For the second sheet, I put AR on top of remaining part of the spar, butt the new sheet against the previous sheet, and lay glue on the ribs under the next sheet, lay the sheet in place, pin it on the spar and put the lead pillows on top of the rib locations.

Subsequent sheets are CA'd on the edge of the previous sheet, with AR laid down on the ribs with the syringe. Results in a nicely sheeted wing surface without a lot of hassle.


Jim

Balsa Master

i personaly prefer CA over wood glue, make sure you have a straight edge on the sheeting, if not you wil lget gaps and if you force the piece so there are no gape the wing will warp (my first full sheet wing warped 1 inch from LE to TE on diagonal ihad to cut a line down the wing and stretch it to unwarped position and reglue then sand for oh say 3 days... not fun, do it right) aslo, if you wet the wood, DO NOT wet the bottom, water is an accelerator to CA it will cure almoast instantly and the sheet may be misaligned. i like to keep the wing pined down around the edges to prevent warping, makes life easier. oh and masking tape works well too, if you are not into the idea of using the lead weights (whitch i am gonna have to go out and get cuz that sounds like a great idea). i usualy use that no name CA that every hoby store buys and slaps their name on i do not like zap, its more expensive and in my oppinion (and that of several other people ive taked to) its not as quick drying or as strong. hope this helps... oh btw long sanding block is a good thing to have.

Steve Collins

My Feedback: (8)

I highly recommend using a product called "Sheet Zap". This is a thick CA which is formulated to dry much slower so that you have plenty of time to position the sheeting correctly. Dries much faster than the aliphatic resin glues. This is the stuff recommended by Bob Violet Models for use in sheeting their jet wings such as the Mig-15, the Balsa Bandit, and the Bobcat.