Glassing questions for TF corsair as an example...how to?
09-22-2003, 11:44 AM
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Glassing questions for TF corsair as an example...how to?
I just finished my latest project with monokote and I'm really not happy with the end result. I'm looking more and more at glassing, especially if I'm thinking of doing the TF corsair for my next project, as I'd really like to get that "battle used warbird" final finish if at all possible. Two big questions I have on glassing are:
1) Glassing, from what I've read, can only be used on sheeted surfaces. So if I plan to cover the wing and fuselage of the Corsair with glass, what would I cover the rudder and elevator with, since they are framed and not sheeted on the corsiar kit? I'd ovsiously like the whole plane to look uniform in the end.
2) Finally, with Monokote, you reheat to take any warping out of the wing, how to you fix any warping you might have after you've finished a wing with glass?
1) Glassing, from what I've read, can only be used on sheeted surfaces. So if I plan to cover the wing and fuselage of the Corsair with glass, what would I cover the rudder and elevator with, since they are framed and not sheeted on the corsiar kit? I'd ovsiously like the whole plane to look uniform in the end.
2) Finally, with Monokote, you reheat to take any warping out of the wing, how to you fix any warping you might have after you've finished a wing with glass?
09-22-2003, 08:47 PM
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RE: Glassing questions for TF corsair as an example...how to?
I would cover the control surfaces with a polyester covering, like Solartex, Worldtex, Super Coverite (my favorite), dope these coverings with low shrink butyrate dope from Sig Manufacturing, light sanding, just to remove the fuzz and then paint, same as the rest.
Another option that you have when covering the airplane is to use silkspan instead of fiberglass, it is a very inexpensive and great way to finish a model this size, and light too, read Sigs manual on how to use this covering, do not use it for open surfaces, not strong enough, just like fiberglass.
And then another option is to cover the entire structure with the above mentioned polyester covering and doping the surface to fill the weave and then painted. this is by far the strongest way of covering any model and will outlive anything.
Another option that you have when covering the airplane is to use silkspan instead of fiberglass, it is a very inexpensive and great way to finish a model this size, and light too, read Sigs manual on how to use this covering, do not use it for open surfaces, not strong enough, just like fiberglass.
And then another option is to cover the entire structure with the above mentioned polyester covering and doping the surface to fill the weave and then painted. this is by far the strongest way of covering any model and will outlive anything.
09-22-2003, 09:06 PM
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RE: Glassing questions for TF corsair as an example...how to?
1) All the control surfaces on the full-size Corsair were fabric covered. This includes the elevators, rudder, ailerons and flaps. It doesn't look like they are, but they are. If you do a search on RCU, you'll find that the most popular choice is to use Solartex. It takes paint well, so the end result will still look uniform.
2) You cannot unwarp a fiberglassed wing like you can a monokoted wing. You have to remove the warp before you fiberglass the wing.
Juice
2) You cannot unwarp a fiberglassed wing like you can a monokoted wing. You have to remove the warp before you fiberglass the wing.
Juice
10-06-2003, 10:23 PM
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RE: Glassing questions for TF corsair as an example...how to?
I agree with Walter...
Silkspan is great for just what you're planning - it's far easier to apply than glass, much lighter, has less grain to fill, is a whole bunch cheaper, and takes maybe a bit less time.
Silkspan comes in several weights, and you probably want heavier rather than lighter for that size kit.
I spray the silkspan with water or rubbing alcohol (water if humidity is really low, alcohol if it's higher), then lay it flat on a towel while I dope the surface to be covered. I then lay the silkspan down carefully, doping as neccesary to make it stay.
One additional benefit is that mistakes are easy to fix. Just use a #11 blade and a flexible straightedge to cut out the offending region, pull the damaged silkspan off the model, and redo... I have used this method a half dozen times with great results.
When dry, fill in the grain by brushing on a 25% thinned dope/ 15% talcum powder mixture or spraying with sandable primer, sand and prime progressively starting with 240 down to 600 grit to set up for a real smooth finish, or 320/400 for a bit rougher one. You'll have a perfect finish to put on your camo.
Jim
Silkspan is great for just what you're planning - it's far easier to apply than glass, much lighter, has less grain to fill, is a whole bunch cheaper, and takes maybe a bit less time.
Silkspan comes in several weights, and you probably want heavier rather than lighter for that size kit.
I spray the silkspan with water or rubbing alcohol (water if humidity is really low, alcohol if it's higher), then lay it flat on a towel while I dope the surface to be covered. I then lay the silkspan down carefully, doping as neccesary to make it stay.
One additional benefit is that mistakes are easy to fix. Just use a #11 blade and a flexible straightedge to cut out the offending region, pull the damaged silkspan off the model, and redo... I have used this method a half dozen times with great results.
When dry, fill in the grain by brushing on a 25% thinned dope/ 15% talcum powder mixture or spraying with sandable primer, sand and prime progressively starting with 240 down to 600 grit to set up for a real smooth finish, or 320/400 for a bit rougher one. You'll have a perfect finish to put on your camo.
Jim
