tony0707

HI List the rc flying tips you have learned from your hours of hands on flying experience (lets keep it to a minimum of five years of very active flying ) let us know all those little details you have discovered to make you plane fly better and more reliable than before-from building to actual air time REGARDSTONY

Edwin

My Feedback: (2)

Rudder, rudder, rudder, rudder,  learn to use the rudder.  It makes a bad landing a non-event.</p>

Edwin</p>

tony0707

HI  i have learned to secure the servo connection from my battery pack to my rx to something stationary in the fuse of the airframe -so as to prevent vibration from gigling the connection and causing it to become intermitent-  i heat shrink over the connection or use a wire tie and then use silicone (only -GE silicone two ) it to foam or balsa in the fuse-i lost two planes prior to doing this-no battery connection -no controlsand have not had that problem for 20 years since   i will also use silicone after wrapping my  RX and batteries in foam-  to hold them down inside the plane- it handles vibration very well and pulls  right off when you need to remove those parts  works well to hold down foam covered glo fuel tanks  also  ( i wrap my tanks in duck tap-to prevent tank  expansion-  so the pressure can do its intended job ) do use ONLY GE silicone two- as when it cures it gives off a base -unlike othe silicone that cure giving off an acid that could be harmful to radio equipment    hope these tips will keep your planes flying longer and in better control while there (flying on rails ) -many more tips to come- REGARDS TONY

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I use velcro instead of silicon. Stick a piece of the "Loop" side to every battery pack and a piece of "Hook" side to every Rx.

Now, with every new plane, just cut an inch or two of velcro and attach the "Hook" side where the battery will go and the "Loop" side where the Rx will go.

It holds the items in place and provides protection from vibrations AND it makes them easily removable and replaceable.

The only thing you need to watch out for is installing the battery inverted (I.E. Placing the battery in a low-wing plane, then flipping the plane over so the velcro is on top) as the combination of weight, gravity and vibration could cause it to come un-stuck.

planebuilder66

My Feedback: (8)

Learn rudder, check your planes the night before, not at the field and bring bug spray, you wouldn't believe how many guys crash because they're too distracted by swatting at bugs, one guy actually dropped his tx because he was swatting at them so much.

tony0707

hi    when i get a new radio-  i always silicone the RX crystal  in  its place-once had one break the board it was plugged into from vibration -i do the same with the  TX    i will remove the back of the tx case and screw down the screws behind the gimbles-this will increase the stick pressure against your fingers giving you more of a feel for the sticks location-and gets the stick back to center a bit quicker- i will also lengthen the sticks as much as is possible -that gives me a longer amount of throw and slower control of a given control surface-than with the sticks set shorter

tony0707

hi after hours of experimentation i have learned to use the inner most hole possible on a servos arm- and then the hole on the horn-that is correct for the amount of control surface throw i need- doing it that way allows you to use more of the servos travel and keeps the servo in better opperating order-by keeping its pot clean and used-you will get for example the same half inch of throw on a given control surface -but the surface will move more slowly thru that half inch (than if set up any other way on that same servo )-the result is slower and smoother movement of that control surface thru its travel-which means better control and feel of the surfaceall my planes feel as if they fly on rails-after the inital bugs of the first few flights are worked out- as they always need to be

anuthabubba

My Feedback: (102)

Never had any of those problems with vibration flying glow up to 1.20 size. Just wrapped receivers, tanks, batteries in foam and secured to something solid, when necessary, by rubber bands or balsa/ply boards/sticks or boxes/compartments built in as needed.</p>

A good 'coach' when you are learning to flywill give you info/tips that can make your entire RC flying experience a thing of pleasure. Then there's the need for varied practice sessions. Fly figure 8s (left turn on the right end, right turn on the left end) instead of the same left or righthand circle around the field. And as others have said, practice using the rudder. Except when low and slow.</p>

Terry in LP</p>

tony0707

hi  do take the time when building a new plane to glue the balsa under the control horns-i make holes with pins below the horns-soak with thin  CA and install the horn(-we are talking having our planes hold up for many flights with the tips here )-if this is not done the horns will damage the balsa below them and get loose or danage the balsa at some time in the future - the CA will also prevent damage from any possible  fuel soaking in this area -another major source of airframe balsa damage-assuming the plane will be flying a long time that will happen    fuel soaking does apply to glo powered airplanes  i will be adding many more tips to this form as i do aprox 75-100 special proceedures to evey plane i build after 24 years of constant build and flyingi still fly my 40 size midwest sweet stick that was my third plane built 20 years ago -with about 450 flight on her and just freshened up by me last month-i just built anheadral into that planes wing (after reading an artical on the subject ) -and it fly better than it ever has in the past with its straight wing-but thats a whole other story and post

tony0707

hi  when flying off of a paved runway -i find it very helpful to CA glue the tires to the rims of the tires-this will improve ground handling a good deal-as it eliminates some of the right left movement of the tires- using  landing gear a bit wider than is usual for a given size plane will also improve ground handling a great deal-  i will often  redesign my tailwheel by making it longer-has the effect of slowing down the tailwheels movement as the wheel now has a much greater arch to travel through thus giving you more control and a better feel on the rudder stick and much improved ground handling

tony0707

hi  regarding installing the material hinges  -i do not at all like the standard slotting method that i often see used-   i feel you are gessing the hinges are glued in as they s/b   -loose hinges will do your plane in-  especially over a long period of many flights-   my method is to mark the location of the hinges    i  draw a line on the the stab  for example-at its trailing edge -half way between that edge -i then cut out a square the size of the hinge -in the balsa with an exacto knife (no hindging tools required ) -down to the line drawn-remove that  square of balsa-   put thin CA in the cutout-  let it dry -lay in the cloth hinge-apply thin CA again-(i am now sure the hindge is TOTALLY glue down ) and replace the piece of balsa i had cut out prior on top of the new glued in cloth hindge- sand and smooth     you now have a hindge you are sure is not going to come loose in the future-none of mine have in 20 years  do be sure you have a hindge located very close to your control horn-as that will allow the control horn to apply the proper force to the control surface-and not just not be flexing that control surface    do yank and pull on any hindged surface you may question-as it is better for you to pull it off -than for it to come off in the air    on none material hinges -it is a good idea to pin the hinges-drill a small hole through the hindge-install a tooth pick with glue-cut it off ( a large nail clipper works good here )-and sand smooth- it is real important to keep those hinges were they belong to keep the plane flying for many years

anuthabubba

My Feedback: (102)

For improved ground handling on conventional gear/taildraggers, toe the mains out a few degrees and on tricycle gear toe the mains in a bit.</p>

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Terry in LP </p>

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TooLow

My Feedback: (5)

one little tid-bit that I remember from a guy who taught me many moons ago- - when setting up for a landing with the plane comming at you the low wing gets the stick to level it. Just keeps from thinking opposite in a panic situation

Rodney

I noticed that some are using silicon for adhering things in some of the above posts.  A very serious warning, if you are using the type that gives off the smell of vinegar as it cures, you are flirting with danger.  The fumes are very corrosive to electronics, especially in a closed area like a fuselage might be.  If you must use it, they make an electronics compatible version (at a much higher cost) which will not corrode your electronics. 

tony0707

hi i addressed the type of silicone that s/b used -when i suggested using it-and yes do not use the wrong kind-only GE silicone s/b be used

rogue-RCU

My Feedback: (2)

Learn to use the rudder it is your friend!

tony0707

hi   i have been using the following set up in all my 40-120 size glo planes      on the controls i use the sullivan red plastic sleeve-with a 2/56 metal rod inside it    -i slip very small pieces of nyrod -1/16 of an inch about every  2 inches on the metal rod -two things happen-any  play in the metalk rod and plastic sleeve is gone -and  very little binding or  friction from that set up -very direct -no flex   and direct feel i never use the kit supplied clevises-i use only the HATES clevises on my control surfaces-(with fuel tubing - locks over them )  -i use EZ's on the servo end -only with the nylon (not the metal hold downs )- supplied with them-   please remember i started to fly  RC when there were no ARF's and no computer radios -so all adjustments to controls were done mechanically-the best builders i knew used them -and i have said  " if i ever see one fail -i will never use them again  "-i still do and that was 24 years ago-  enough said      you must always - in some way secure the control rods near -or at the middle of the inside of the fuse  -or the flex that happens there will greatly reduce the direct force you want to be applied to the control surfaces-( elevator and rudder )  the control rod should also be as straight as possible between the servo and the control surface horn -so you are appling a direct force with no possible flex of the control rod-this will give you the control movement you need -to have the feeling the plane is directly attached to the end of that stick you are holding in your hand (TX)-the feeling the plane is flying on rails is what follows with this set up

JL1

My Feedback: (93)

Use a neck strap, then you can swat bugs or do whatever without fear of dropping your transmitter.</p>

When using a threaded, metal  clevis on a control link, use a jam nut to prevent metal to metal vibration and excessive wear.</p>

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

Seal the firewall. If the fuel doesn't get in, the plane will last for ever. Or at least it could last forever.

Take your time building. Don't rush. You are trying to build the most reliable machine you can possibly build.

Hardware at Ace cost 1/10 the price .

Don't fly distracted. If something is on your mind and you can't concentrate, thenpark it.

Brad330l

My Feedback: (1)

You've nailed it Pilot Fighter!!
When putting a model together and you think "this bit could break, or,no that's not quite right" then know darn well that it will break or let you down so do it right the first time.
Building and maintenance is for the shed. Flying happens at the field.

Brad

tony0707

hi   i have learned the difference between a good airframe builder and a bad airframe builder is  when the good airframe builder makes a mistake  and we all will no matter how long you may be buildinghe stops takes the time to correct that mistake and then move foward do not live with anything you know may be marginalthe idea is to have your planes fly for as long as is possible-  that will only happen from a good build at the start-  making the reqired improvements the first 10-12 flights-( i call it getting the bugs out  )  and then constant maintanence-  to be sure the plane and it parts are air worthy

tony0707

hi  after 20 plus years of building -i have my own way to join wing halfs- first when the wing half is first built -do be sure when you remove it from the building board (wing should only be tack glued )-and- before the final gluing is done that both the T/E and L/E are as straight as an arrow-  if not twist and crack it until it is-then move foward -to sheet it etc .-you must have no warps in  any control surfaces-   i always replace the wing joiner with  a 1/4 inch -5 ply  plywood-(at the L/E  also  )  when i  join the wings-  and sheet over -the center four ribs-  i have never had a wing joint fail on me doing it this way-and  there is no need to glass the center of the wing- as any of the heat shrink coverings do not stick well to epoxie from my experience  -i always reinforce my landing gear area with 1/4 inch -5ply plywood  and -or  1/2 inch half round hard wood  (i get at a lumber yard ) between the fuse floor and its sides-the only time my gear has come off-has been in a major crash in  my first two year of learing to fly RC    i build all my servo trays from 1/4 inch by 3/8 hardwood-had very bad luck using the plastic trays-if a kit gives you a piece of  1/8 ply for a tray -i then put the 1/4 inch by 3/8 inch hard wood below that -so the servo screw have wood to bite intothese planes and engines vibrate alot-put you hand on the side of a fuse when the engine is running-you wiil be surprisedi have seen aircraft come down from a flight with more than one servo scew that was almost unscrewedso do tighten your servo screws as part of you maintenance schedule  -lets say every 10-15 flights

anuthabubba

My Feedback: (102)

Well balanced propellors reduce vibrations. Balance your props! It's not always a heavy blade. Could be the hub is out of balance.</p>

I have seen the following methods used successfully before. You must assume responsibility for your own actions and use them at your own risk.</p>

Use a good 360 degree balancer like the High Point or DuBro copy of the High Point. Let the prop seek its own position after a light spin (do this more than once) in a no breeze/fan situation. When the prop stops spinning, the spot directly below the spindle is the heavy spot. Double check it. Mark it with a pencil or Sharpy. Remove the prop from the spindle so as not to bend/damage it which will render it useless. Either remove material from the heavy spot (on wood props) and/or add weight to the light side (directly opposite the heavy). </p>

Never sand the face (back side facing the airplane on tractor mounted props) of a blade unless you are trying to change or match the pitch. If you must sand a heavy blade, sand the airfoiled side lightly. A better method is to add weight/paint to the light blade tip. The only time to add weight or sand a blade is when the prop stops/hangs vertically on the balancer. Remember, the spot directly beneath the balancer spindle is the heavy spot and exactly opposite that is the light spot.</p>

Terry in LP</p>

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jooNorway

Always do a serious job in <u>every</u> detail when building/assembling.
Don`t rely on cheap China gadgets. Quality lasts.
Always check airframes, batteries etc when you come home from a day at the airfield. Fix things at once.
Set rudder throws to suit what you prefer.
Never balance at "recommended" CG and go on flying if it don t suit your flying style. Tweak!
Never rely on decalage, especially on cheap ARFs. Measure, and correct if not good. Same with thrust angles.

Get a <u>really good </u>TX. The TX is the tool you control your models from. A really good TX is one you get used to and never have any doubt how you program or where the switches are placed. A lot of memory and battery time is a must. You only need ONE good TX.

TedMo

When setting your control throws, sub trims etc. be sure to have all servos in neutral and servo arms at 90 degrees. this is accomplished by rotating servo arm on shaft since hub of arms are asymetrical. Attempt to maintain neutral position by mechanical adjustment rather than using trims. Provide sufficient throw in ailerons and elevator to get quick responce in initial flight, use dual rate to modify if needed when establishing flight trim during initial flights. Check elevator reaction at good altitude. Some aircraft will snap with too much elevator, especially if tail heavy. After initial flights make needed corrections mechanically, thereby permitting resetting to neutral on tx. Buy quality equipment, saving $100 is a costly error when you crash. Keep battweries properly charged and cycled. Make range checks often. Be sure of proper control movement before leaving home.