Monokote paint-the worst?
07-24-2006, 09:14 PM
#1
Monokote paint-the worst?
Got a Goldberg Cub with the white ABS cowl. I used a can of the Monokote brand Cub Yellow paint. The worst paint I've ever used. Goes on water thin, dries slower than any thing I've used, runs like crazy and takes umpteen dozen coats. And it chips if you bump it. But, other than that it's O.K.! Did I get a bad can, or does this stuff just suc........? Anyone else make Cub Yellow spray paint? Bill
07-25-2006, 08:56 AM
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RE: Monokote paint-the worst?
Well, first, don't blame the paint if it runs. That's your fault. Second, If you're talking about Lustercoat, yes it does suck. It takes forever to dry and according to some once that happens it is actually fuel proof, but we're talking about weeks (I've heard). I used the clear one time and it took about 2 months before I felt it was hard enough and it wasn't fuel proof at that point.
If you want a really good paint job then you mist on a light coat and let if flash. By light I mean so light that you can see the individual specks of paint on the primer and the coat is much more primer color than paint color.
Do that 2 more times about 10 minutes between coats. That should give you an even base coat but not an opaque base coat.
Next spray a light coat that is slightly heavier than the mist coats. Give that 20-30 minutes to flash. Don't be impatient. Repeat until you have the opacity you want.
You should never spray a coat so heavy that it can run regardless of how "thin" the paint it. Paint doesn't run because it's thin. It runs because too much was applied.
I mixed cub yellow using a couple drops of red in an ounce of yellow to get a close approximation. The exact colors and amount depend on the paint. Klass Kote (what I used) already has some red in the yellow - it's not a true yellow - so I didn't need to add much red.
Cub yellow is golden yellow which is on the yellow side of orange.
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/galler..._piper_j3_cub/
If you want a really good paint job then you mist on a light coat and let if flash. By light I mean so light that you can see the individual specks of paint on the primer and the coat is much more primer color than paint color.
Do that 2 more times about 10 minutes between coats. That should give you an even base coat but not an opaque base coat.
Next spray a light coat that is slightly heavier than the mist coats. Give that 20-30 minutes to flash. Don't be impatient. Repeat until you have the opacity you want.
You should never spray a coat so heavy that it can run regardless of how "thin" the paint it. Paint doesn't run because it's thin. It runs because too much was applied.
I mixed cub yellow using a couple drops of red in an ounce of yellow to get a close approximation. The exact colors and amount depend on the paint. Klass Kote (what I used) already has some red in the yellow - it's not a true yellow - so I didn't need to add much red.
Cub yellow is golden yellow which is on the yellow side of orange.
http://www.airfieldmodels.com/galler..._piper_j3_cub/
07-25-2006, 07:59 PM
#6
RE: Monokote paint-the worst?
Well, after spending half my day sanding and spraying the cowl is almost presentable. I masked off the engine and when I pulled off the masking tape, guess what. Yep, a nice flake of Lusterkote Cub Yellow paint came off. By comparison, I have some John Deere green spray which I decided to paint the fiberglass shell, yesterday, on my riding mower. The finish looks like factory new, one coat. Did anyone ever see a John Deere Cub? I'm thinking maybe..............................
07-25-2006, 09:13 PM
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RE: Monokote paint-the worst?
I put a GP Super Cub cowl on my H9 J-3 and painted it with a farm implement yellow enamel I found at Wal-Mart. It was a very close match.
07-26-2006, 02:18 PM
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RE: Monokote paint-the worst?
While I have no problem applying the paint, the paint is garbage. I painted a 1/4 scale Gee Bee over fabric.. Half of the cans were had large black chucks that would spit out and ruined the finish. After wets sanding and starting over, the job came out great, how ever after a few days the paint cracked all over like a dry desert floor. I have tried their junk paint way too many times to admit too with simular results. The paint does not match the covering even close, goes on too rough and over all is just a waste of money. I wish they would just drop the product line as it is doing nothing for their reputation.
Regards,
Randy
Regards,
Randy
07-27-2006, 11:58 AM
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RE: Monokote paint-the worst?
I have used lustre coat paint many times with total lack of consistancy. Sometimes it is great and other times it is the pits. Sometimes the colors match and sometimes they don't.When you sue this product it is adventure to see what happens. The problem is not the paint but the model builder This product has been terrible for years yet we keep buying it. Why would they go and change when it is not necessary. If no one buys the paint and those that have mail it back to the company with a note. You just might see a change. I for one will never buy another can.
Caffenman I appreciate you explanation but, if you have to go through that much trouble to get a decent paint job and spend that much time is it really worth it. Thanks again it was not intended to be critical of you but of the paint.
Caffenman I appreciate you explanation but, if you have to go through that much trouble to get a decent paint job and spend that much time is it really worth it. Thanks again it was not intended to be critical of you but of the paint.
07-27-2006, 01:33 PM
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RE: Monokote paint-the worst?
I also had a bad experience with lusterkote a few years back. I built an extra 300, and painted the cowling and wheel pants red. The red matched the monokote very well until... I used lusterkote white primer underneath, and their clear on top.
I think the red reacted with heat or sunlight, because in areas where the sun could see it, the red turned to a black-brown color. It's not heat from the engine either, because it happened on the wheel pants. It is not a fuel reaction. Maybe I'll post a pic. As long viewing the cowl doesn't break my camera lens...[&o]
I think the red reacted with heat or sunlight, because in areas where the sun could see it, the red turned to a black-brown color. It's not heat from the engine either, because it happened on the wheel pants. It is not a fuel reaction. Maybe I'll post a pic. As long viewing the cowl doesn't break my camera lens...[&o]
07-27-2006, 01:43 PM
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RE: Monokote paint-the worst?
acerpal - How much trouble is it to spend a couple hours spraying on the paint properly? By the time you've gotten to actually spraying the paint, you should have spent 10x that amount of time preparing for it. Nobody ever said a good paint job is fast or easy (except maybe dishonest paint manufacturers).
07-27-2006, 06:57 PM
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RE: Monokote paint-the worst?
My experience with Lustrecoat has been good. Then again, I do the same prep work before using it that I would when painting anything and expecting a good finish - sanding, washing, cleaning with Isopropal alcohol, primer, sanding, washing, etc. then paint (after well shaing and swirling the can around in a small circle) in 2 - 3 light coats and one wet coat.
The only problems with color matching is when a primer isn't used - as with any paints. Lack of proper primer use will aso result in the paint flaking off as noted in some of these posts.
Reds of any paints are notorious for fading in sunlight. Checkout an older red car and compare the color on the hood with that on a door frame that hasn't been exposed to the sunlight.
The only problems with color matching is when a primer isn't used - as with any paints. Lack of proper primer use will aso result in the paint flaking off as noted in some of these posts.
Reds of any paints are notorious for fading in sunlight. Checkout an older red car and compare the color on the hood with that on a door frame that hasn't been exposed to the sunlight.
07-29-2006, 03:18 PM
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RE: Monokote paint-the worst?
I also have used Lustercoat Insignia Blue on my Dragon Lady Cowl and pants over primer. It did spit out some chunks which necessitated wiping off and reapplying. AARGH![X(] After that the second coat went on reasonably well, then dried, then Crystal Clear over that. After the first few flights, I noticed the darkening of the finish also where it is exposed to sunlight on the pants and the cowl!! It just looks like a blotchy area on the top. Some sort of chemical reaction due to heat, or UV? I have used this paint before and haven't had that problem. The paint was at least a year old before I started. I have had excellent results with Rustoleum though, sprays on great and finishes extremely well, I just used the old Lustercoat because I had it and it sort of matched my covering material. I used the Rustoleum yellow and black on my ARC Carosel with a coat of clear and couldn't be happier with the results.
07-30-2006, 09:56 AM
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RE: Monokote paint-the worst?
Throw the luster-coat away, go get some rust-oleum. I've got some on an aeromaster and a Something-extra, both on top of monokote, that's well over 6 years old. The Aeromaster trim is flaking a bit, but not too bad yet. Easy to use, covers well, dries fast, and keeps you from kicking the dog.
08-17-2006, 04:04 PM
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RE: Monokote paint-the worst?
Painting is 80% preparation and 20% application, I'm with CafeenMan on this one.
I've use Lusterkote on quite a few cowls and if it's applied correctly, and patiently, it works out fine. Primer, wet sand smooth with 600-800 paper, clean well, apply the paint. Application is as CafeenMan said, DUST on the first coat and then allow it to cure for 9-12 minutes. The way you know it's ready for a second coat is by touching it and none comes off on your fingers, sticky but not wet. No, I don't actually touch the parts, find a place on the stick you have the parts attached to and touch that, or apply some to a piece of plastic or cardboard at the same time you paint the parts to use as a drying gage. The next coat can be laid on heavier and more evenly but should not be hosed on or you'll get a run, flash time is usually the same as the first coat. I find that the paint comes out of the cans in far to great a volume and will require that you hold the can quite a distance from the parts being sprayed for good, even coverage, about 12-18 inches, test on scrap to figure out how far you should hold the can before actually painting the parts for your plane. In general I have found that 3 coats is usually sufficient for good coverage and keeping the weight down. Applying this stuff is not hard, it just takes a little patience and technique.
I've also found that there is no need for the clear as the paint, if applied properly, will gloss up fine all by itself. I would also go so far as to say that adding their clear over a good base would only build up the film layer and add nothing but creat a thicker, more easily chipped finish.
Yes the stuff is fuel proof if applied correctly and it is dry for USE within a couple of days, I have flown models the next day after painting with no ill effects noted BTW. No, it doesn't actually dry hard for a quite a while, you will know when it's done curing when you can no longer smell the solvents evaporating out of it any longer. In general this applies to ALL spray bomb paints and I have yet to use any of them, regardless of the name brand, that will give satisfactory results without doing it the way I have described above.
Edited: I forgot to add that you need to SHAKE the cans VERY well, goes without saying that this should be done with ALL spray bombs.
I've use Lusterkote on quite a few cowls and if it's applied correctly, and patiently, it works out fine. Primer, wet sand smooth with 600-800 paper, clean well, apply the paint. Application is as CafeenMan said, DUST on the first coat and then allow it to cure for 9-12 minutes. The way you know it's ready for a second coat is by touching it and none comes off on your fingers, sticky but not wet. No, I don't actually touch the parts, find a place on the stick you have the parts attached to and touch that, or apply some to a piece of plastic or cardboard at the same time you paint the parts to use as a drying gage. The next coat can be laid on heavier and more evenly but should not be hosed on or you'll get a run, flash time is usually the same as the first coat. I find that the paint comes out of the cans in far to great a volume and will require that you hold the can quite a distance from the parts being sprayed for good, even coverage, about 12-18 inches, test on scrap to figure out how far you should hold the can before actually painting the parts for your plane. In general I have found that 3 coats is usually sufficient for good coverage and keeping the weight down. Applying this stuff is not hard, it just takes a little patience and technique.
I've also found that there is no need for the clear as the paint, if applied properly, will gloss up fine all by itself. I would also go so far as to say that adding their clear over a good base would only build up the film layer and add nothing but creat a thicker, more easily chipped finish.
Yes the stuff is fuel proof if applied correctly and it is dry for USE within a couple of days, I have flown models the next day after painting with no ill effects noted BTW. No, it doesn't actually dry hard for a quite a while, you will know when it's done curing when you can no longer smell the solvents evaporating out of it any longer. In general this applies to ALL spray bomb paints and I have yet to use any of them, regardless of the name brand, that will give satisfactory results without doing it the way I have described above.
Edited: I forgot to add that you need to SHAKE the cans VERY well, goes without saying that this should be done with ALL spray bombs.
