Kangke's Hardware
01-20-2005, 10:44 AM
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RE: Kangke's Hardware
Agree 100%
I finsihed my Extra 300-60 over Christmas and was very impressed.
My only problem was building the forked rear pushrod.
Could have been provided or done differently
I finsihed my Extra 300-60 over Christmas and was very impressed.
My only problem was building the forked rear pushrod.
Could have been provided or done differently
01-20-2005, 02:10 PM
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RE: Kangke's Hardware
Watch those metal clevises... they like to come loose and/or break. They are really brittle. I have more than few break on me and ended up replacing them with Sullivans.
On the monocoupe you are probably ok though, that plane has no wing load! My problems occured on the Hurricane.
DP
On the monocoupe you are probably ok though, that plane has no wing load! My problems occured on the Hurricane.
DP
01-20-2005, 02:42 PM
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RE: Kangke's Hardware
watch the plastic screw-on part on the end of the control horn. Guy at my club had a Kange Cap, and gave a tug on the ailerons, and the plastic part broke. Clevis snaped clean through the plastic...
01-23-2005, 09:50 AM
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RE: Kangke's Hardware
I'm doing an older Kangke right now; the discontinued CAP 232 Sport. Its my second one; this one was bought by a pal the same time I got mine a few years back, and he never got around to assembling it.
The ONLY part of the supplied hardware I'm using is the control horns on the flying surfaces.
I've done many ARFs, and while some of the included "Pacific rim" hardware has been decent, the only Asian-produced ARFs that had usable hardware (that I would use, at least) were the ones that included DuBro or similar stuff. The ExtremeFlight Yak-54 has come the closest; the only thing I replaced of its hardware complement was the tail wheel assembly.
The ONLY part of the supplied hardware I'm using is the control horns on the flying surfaces.
I've done many ARFs, and while some of the included "Pacific rim" hardware has been decent, the only Asian-produced ARFs that had usable hardware (that I would use, at least) were the ones that included DuBro or similar stuff. The ExtremeFlight Yak-54 has come the closest; the only thing I replaced of its hardware complement was the tail wheel assembly.
01-23-2005, 10:03 AM
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RE: Kangke's Hardware
SitNFly, they can change the hardware and maybe they have. I would think if anybody would do it, Kangke would. But, if you get one of the older kits wouldn't you want to know what to watch out for?
BTW, the matal clevises melting when soldered is the only major problem I have had with them.
Steve, if you were wanting a fun airplane that still flys a straight line, I think you may have found it.
Ed M.
BTW, the matal clevises melting when soldered is the only major problem I have had with them.
Steve, if you were wanting a fun airplane that still flys a straight line, I think you may have found it.
Ed M.
01-23-2005, 11:40 AM
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RE: Kangke's Hardware
I know, Ed. I flew the first one for several years, then like a big dummy sold it. When my buddy offered me this one, I jumped on it big-time.
My first one ended up in the stable of one of the local serious pattern flyers. He uses it for a practice plane.
Too bad they dropped it; it was real sleeper.
My first one ended up in the stable of one of the local serious pattern flyers. He uses it for a practice plane.
Too bad they dropped it; it was real sleeper.
01-23-2005, 12:18 PM
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RE: Kangke's Hardware
ORIGINAL: bentgear
SitNFly, they can change the hardware and maybe they have. I would think if anybody would do it, Kangke would. But, if you get one of the older kits wouldn't you want to know what to watch out for?
Ed M.
SitNFly, they can change the hardware and maybe they have. I would think if anybody would do it, Kangke would. But, if you get one of the older kits wouldn't you want to know what to watch out for?
Ed M.
Absolutely. I'm just observing that this thread started with a nice picture of the Kangke hardware saying that the quality was evident. Then other posters come in saying that the hardware is basically junk. Looks can be deceiving. Might as well replace the fuel tank, too, because if it's typical ARF no-name stuff, it's going to split at the seams. No guarantees the new stuff is any better.
03-06-2005, 11:20 PM
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RE: Kangke's Hardware
I just finished a Kangke CAP 232/60 bought straight from Kangke at this year's WRAM show, and had to replace most of the hardware. It seems this was an older kit. All clevises and control horns had to be replaced. Either the material was weak or the items were not quality grade. All clevises had to go, as well as the control horns. Wing holddown bolts and blind nuts had to be thrown out. I wound up drilling the holes and plugging them with wood dowel, then tapping the new holes and replacing the screws with stronger bolts. It have serious doubts that the bolts supplied would have held the wing in place doing anything wilder thant straight and level flight.
The decals supplied were substandard and not opaque enough. Both wheels were unusable as they were totally out of true and wobbled badly when rotated. Covering was very good, however and the paint job on the fiberglass cowl was magnificent. However, the molded ABS Plastic wheel pants totally detract from the looks of an otherwise beautiful airplane. The supplied adjustable engine mount was quite adequate and made engine installation very easy. The written instructions were hapharzardly written, actually just a very fuzzy photocopy of the originals and photos were almost worthless. Building this ARF will tax your ingenuity, however, with the proper tools and good hardware, it will go together fairly quickly. The end result, save the hideous plastic wheel pants, is worth the effort. I wonder if there are any aftermarket fiberglass wheel pants available out there.
The decals supplied were substandard and not opaque enough. Both wheels were unusable as they were totally out of true and wobbled badly when rotated. Covering was very good, however and the paint job on the fiberglass cowl was magnificent. However, the molded ABS Plastic wheel pants totally detract from the looks of an otherwise beautiful airplane. The supplied adjustable engine mount was quite adequate and made engine installation very easy. The written instructions were hapharzardly written, actually just a very fuzzy photocopy of the originals and photos were almost worthless. Building this ARF will tax your ingenuity, however, with the proper tools and good hardware, it will go together fairly quickly. The end result, save the hideous plastic wheel pants, is worth the effort. I wonder if there are any aftermarket fiberglass wheel pants available out there.
03-07-2005, 01:27 AM
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RE: Kangke's Hardware
Since the control rods are metric is their any where to by ball links in metric as well as clevises and plastic control horn. I have the cap 1.20
Best,
Robert
Best,
Robert
03-07-2005, 06:03 PM
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RE: Kangke's Hardware
I have built two 60 sized Kangke Staudachers, the Sport Cap, the 60 size Cap, and the SK50 (A very underrated model, IMO)... I have two more Caps (120 and 60) NIB, and I'm in the process of recovering the Sport Cap...
On the Staudachers, Sport Cap, and 60 sized cap... I mounted two mini servos in the tail for the elevators (Hitec 225's or the new GWS minis).. put pull-pull on the rudder... Hitec 605 mostly.... Saito 100 on the Staudachers, and 60 Cap.. balances with no extra weight... the battery is behind the fuel tank... I used a thunder tiger 91 four stroke on the Sport Cap... it balances with no addition weight, and is a 3D type of flyer now... Just don't cram the control surfaces together when hinging.. leave some gap, so you can get the throw.....
Hardware is so-so.... I used the control-horns, tail wheel, fuel tank, and CA hinges... but I tossed the control rods, clevises, and the main wheels.
On the Staudachers, Sport Cap, and 60 sized cap... I mounted two mini servos in the tail for the elevators (Hitec 225's or the new GWS minis).. put pull-pull on the rudder... Hitec 605 mostly.... Saito 100 on the Staudachers, and 60 Cap.. balances with no extra weight... the battery is behind the fuel tank... I used a thunder tiger 91 four stroke on the Sport Cap... it balances with no addition weight, and is a 3D type of flyer now... Just don't cram the control surfaces together when hinging.. leave some gap, so you can get the throw.....
Hardware is so-so.... I used the control-horns, tail wheel, fuel tank, and CA hinges... but I tossed the control rods, clevises, and the main wheels.
