Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
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Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
I just wanted to welcome everyone to our new support pages. This section is designed to help you with questions on any of our products including our airplanes, mufflers, mounts, accessories or even setup techniques. Please feel free to post any question or email us at [email protected]
Thanks,
Kevin Young
Thanks,
Kevin Young
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RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
also just to note there will be some cool changes to our website in the next couple of weeks so keep your eye on it for new products and updates.
#4
RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
Freddie,
Just sent you a pm. let me know if you have setup instructions. I can send them to you. They will instruct you how to install the radio and give you the setup.
Al
Just sent you a pm. let me know if you have setup instructions. I can send them to you. They will instruct you how to install the radio and give you the setup.
Al
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RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
Just wondering if Radiowave ever mde a 43% giles. Picked up a 43% Giles and the person said it was a radiowave. Just wondering cause I am having a hard time finding any info on it, Thanks
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RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
Nope we never did a Giles, they are a great flying airplane though. The only companies that I can think of that had around a 43% Giles is Composite ARF/Fiberclassics, Precision Aerobatics (Bob Godfrey), and I think Giant Scale Planes had one.
Do you have any pictures of it and what is it constructed of? Maybe if we see it we will be able to tell you what one it is.
I do own a Bob Godfrey 40% Giles and it is a beautiful airplane.
Do you have any pictures of it and what is it constructed of? Maybe if we see it we will be able to tell you what one it is.
I do own a Bob Godfrey 40% Giles and it is a beautiful airplane.
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RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
I just put togeather a 1/4 scale cub for a club member with a Zenoah 20cc and a new radio system, a futaba 7 channel 2.4 gig. I was told I didn't need chokes on the servo wires with this radio because I would not get any interferance, Is this true?
#11
RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
We fly Futaba and have never use a choke on any of our radio equipment using a gas engine. Biggest thing to remember is not to have any metal to metal contact on the engine from the Throttle servo and keep ignition electronics separated as far as possible from the radio installation.
Al
Al
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RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
Al
Getting ready to start on my 2.5 300 Extra. What size, type of servo arms, push rods, do you recommend?
Here is what I Have to date.
D & B 83cc twin
Hitec 7985s for wings.
Hitec 7955s for elevators, rudder
8-32 control horns for wing, elevator.
10-32 control horn for rudder.
Spektrum AR7000 receiver
Hydrimax 6.0 4200 mAh for power
Thanks'
Doug Williams
Getting ready to start on my 2.5 300 Extra. What size, type of servo arms, push rods, do you recommend?
Here is what I Have to date.
D & B 83cc twin
Hitec 7985s for wings.
Hitec 7955s for elevators, rudder
8-32 control horns for wing, elevator.
10-32 control horn for rudder.
Spektrum AR7000 receiver
Hydrimax 6.0 4200 mAh for power
Thanks'
Doug Williams
#13
RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
Doug,
I suggest metal servo arms. with those servos you can use 1 to 1-1/2 inch. The evevators may only take a 1". As for push rods we use RC car turn buckles on the wing Assoiated 4-40 type available from Tower. The elevator we had to make using carbon fiber rod to keep it stiff enough. it about 6" long Basically I did that by inserting 4-40 rod into a carbon rod and using epoxy to keep it from shifting.
We have a DA 85 and it wild. It will Accelerate out of a vertical series of snaps. I don't know on the D&B 83. I suspect its a little heavier than the DA and I don't know how it will fit in the cowl
Keep us posted on your build. The plane is lots of fine and flys very well!!
Al
I suggest metal servo arms. with those servos you can use 1 to 1-1/2 inch. The evevators may only take a 1". As for push rods we use RC car turn buckles on the wing Assoiated 4-40 type available from Tower. The elevator we had to make using carbon fiber rod to keep it stiff enough. it about 6" long Basically I did that by inserting 4-40 rod into a carbon rod and using epoxy to keep it from shifting.
We have a DA 85 and it wild. It will Accelerate out of a vertical series of snaps. I don't know on the D&B 83. I suspect its a little heavier than the DA and I don't know how it will fit in the cowl
Keep us posted on your build. The plane is lots of fine and flys very well!!
Al
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RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
I'M BUYING A PAK KIT FROM A BUDDY.ARE THERE ANY EASY WAYS TO LIGHTEN THE AIRFRAME?I PLAN ON RUNNIG 5955 SERVOS ,WILL 1 BE ENOUGH FOR THE RUDDER?
#15
RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
Sorry We have not gotten back to you sooner. I did not see this post.
There is not many places to take out weight. maybe a little in the engine box but you will need to be carful that you do not comprimise its strenth. Possibly the canopy by making it a single seat. ( there you can save) Taking weight out of control surfaces will remove about 28 grams ( that converts to about 1 ounce) Best thing is to watch how much glue you use, How you cover it and what you put into it. You don't need to get crazy with all the latest gizmos as most in my opinion add weight. Watch the amount of graphics as they aldd lots of weight.
Remember you have 2800 sq in of wing. unless you build it with bricks it will fly great pretty much at whatever weight you come in at
Al
There is not many places to take out weight. maybe a little in the engine box but you will need to be carful that you do not comprimise its strenth. Possibly the canopy by making it a single seat. ( there you can save) Taking weight out of control surfaces will remove about 28 grams ( that converts to about 1 ounce) Best thing is to watch how much glue you use, How you cover it and what you put into it. You don't need to get crazy with all the latest gizmos as most in my opinion add weight. Watch the amount of graphics as they aldd lots of weight.
Remember you have 2800 sq in of wing. unless you build it with bricks it will fly great pretty much at whatever weight you come in at
Al
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RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
HI Al,
Finally getting 2.5 together. Have the D& B 83 cc twin temporary mounted. Wanted to see how the cowl lined up. Motor required 1/2" plate to get it out to where it needed to be. Looks nice. My question is with the 7 degree right thrust, what point of the engine should be centered in the cowl opening. I moved it 13/32" to the right on the mount as a starting point. The back plate seems off center, but it seems like the center of the prop is centered. See pictures. Planes looks great so far.
Doug
Finally getting 2.5 together. Have the D& B 83 cc twin temporary mounted. Wanted to see how the cowl lined up. Motor required 1/2" plate to get it out to where it needed to be. Looks nice. My question is with the 7 degree right thrust, what point of the engine should be centered in the cowl opening. I moved it 13/32" to the right on the mount as a starting point. The back plate seems off center, but it seems like the center of the prop is centered. See pictures. Planes looks great so far.
Doug
#17
RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
Doug,
First, you need to adjust the right thrust back to about 3 degrees. The offset to the right looking at it should be approx 10mm from center. That should get you where you need to be.
Al
First, you need to adjust the right thrust back to about 3 degrees. The offset to the right looking at it should be approx 10mm from center. That should get you where you need to be.
Al
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RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
Al
Don't know where I got the 7 degree number, I moved it over 10mm and it looks good now. do you have any sources for cabon fiber spinners. I would prefer a light spinner with a motor weighing a little more than what the plane calls for.
D & B weighs 6# 3oz. with ignition.
Doug
Don't know where I got the 7 degree number, I moved it over 10mm and it looks good now. do you have any sources for cabon fiber spinners. I would prefer a light spinner with a motor weighing a little more than what the plane calls for.
D & B weighs 6# 3oz. with ignition.
Doug
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RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
THANKS AL,I RECENTLY BOUGHT A PANZL ALSO .IT WAS ANDY THOMPSON'S.ANYWAY I'M HAVING THE EXTRA COVERED NOW AND IT SEEMS THAT IS GOING TO BE PRETTY LIGHT.I CHANGED THE HATCH TO A SINGLE SEATAND USED A LIGHTER CANOPY.IM THINKING THE DA 85 MAY BE A GOOD MATCH OR I MAY JUST GO WITH ANOTHER DA 100.MAYBE I'LL BRING IT TO JOE NALL AS THE PANZL WILL DEFINITELY BE THERE.
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RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
Al,
Was wondering if all the openings in the firewall could cause problems with the air flow from the cowl getting back into the fusealage and having no place to go or permitting heat from engine to get to radio gear instead of going out bott. of cowl?
Doug
Was wondering if all the openings in the firewall could cause problems with the air flow from the cowl getting back into the fusealage and having no place to go or permitting heat from engine to get to radio gear instead of going out bott. of cowl?
Doug
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RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
ORIGINAL: dougwill
Al,
Was wondering if all the openings in the firewall could cause problems with the air flow from the cowl getting back into the fusealage and having no place to go or permitting heat from engine to get to radio gear instead of going out bott. of cowl?
Doug
Al,
Was wondering if all the openings in the firewall could cause problems with the air flow from the cowl getting back into the fusealage and having no place to go or permitting heat from engine to get to radio gear instead of going out bott. of cowl?
Doug
Doug,
You should have no airflow issues due to the lightening in the motorbox and formers, we actually leave them all open on ours without any problems.
Kevin
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RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
I am assembling a 50cc Aeroworks Ultimate with a DLE55. I'm trying to find the most effective way to muffle the engine. Suggestions have been your wraparound pitts with Snufflers or a canister. The cowl is 10" wide so it seems that fitting a canister would be a problem, though I'm told the canisters are generally quieter. Any suggestions on your part for your products?
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RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
Hi Jim,
One of our canister would be very quiet and provide great power. If that is not an option Then I would consider the large version wraparound. You should see about 95db at 9 to 10 feet with that but we need to check fit. If that is not good enough then I would consider the Snuffler option on the standard wraparound. The only drawback with the double snuffler conversion is it adds approx 8 ounces and puts the muffler-snuffler combo and puts it at 16oz. but that is only 2 ounces heavier than our compitition.
Give us a call if you have additional questions. 704-799-1658
Thanks
Al
One of our canister would be very quiet and provide great power. If that is not an option Then I would consider the large version wraparound. You should see about 95db at 9 to 10 feet with that but we need to check fit. If that is not good enough then I would consider the Snuffler option on the standard wraparound. The only drawback with the double snuffler conversion is it adds approx 8 ounces and puts the muffler-snuffler combo and puts it at 16oz. but that is only 2 ounces heavier than our compitition.
Give us a call if you have additional questions. 704-799-1658
Thanks
Al
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RE: Welcome to the JTEC Radiowave support pages
Very Cool!!!
One of the things I may suggest is getting a good prop on the engine to see what kind of numbers you really can get. The pro zinger on there is going to flex a lot and you are going to loose a lot of prop efficency. You may want to try something like a Mejzlik Carbon fiber prop or even a Menz wood prop, they are both much stiffer of a prop and will perform much better.
Kevin
One of the things I may suggest is getting a good prop on the engine to see what kind of numbers you really can get. The pro zinger on there is going to flex a lot and you are going to loose a lot of prop efficency. You may want to try something like a Mejzlik Carbon fiber prop or even a Menz wood prop, they are both much stiffer of a prop and will perform much better.
Kevin