crossup

My Feedback: (1)

Any tips on using UltraKote to cover a open frame plane using a two base color scheme and a curved intersection? In otherwords, a yellow fuse top and white bottom and the front to rear seam(side) would be a continuous curve.
I presume I cut the two colors in the desired curve, and joint on a flat surface. Is Monokote trim adhesitive a good choice or just heat?
How much overlap? this is a 25+% size plane...200 deg I presume for Ultrakote.
My concern of course is having the seam part since it will be in open air rather than over structure.

krossk

My Feedback: (27)

I can't answer any of your other questions, but I can tell you that Monokote trim solvent has no effect whatsoever on Ultracote. Don't even try to use it.

the-plumber

There are enough problems keeping moneycoat and other plastic films attached to airframes without trying to get an unsupported seam to stay put.

I'd opt to add a 'fairing strip' of balsa along the fuse where the seam will be, and simply attach the covering as usual to the balsa fairing strip.

Probably involve a bit of sanding to maintain the curve of the fuse, but done well it wouldn't be visible.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

This is not as big a problem as you might think. I did this with my wife's Goldberg Tiger 60 (which is an open frame fuse)

Do the bottom first, leave about 3/4" extra for overlap, but it doesn't have to be perfect - that is, it doesn't have to follow the curve perfectly, just close.

Cut the curve on the top piece and iron it in place.

Ultracote shrinks so well that it will take up any slack that may develope, just be careful when heating near the seam

crossup

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks guys, think I'll try a 1/2" overlap done on a work surface. I'm going to realign my curve so I catch more of the meager structure.
Since the overlap will be under other graphics that will give me a second place to take tension and will hide the joint if it slips some.

FlyerBry

My Feedback: (8)

I have connected pieces on a mirror using Monokote and trim solvent a couple of times and it works great. The secret is keeping the overlap to only about 1/8 of an inch so it doesn't bubble. No worries about the seam pulling apart using the trim solvent.

I haven't, however, tried it with Ultrakote yet so I wonder how well the seams stay together using only heat to connect them with the great shrinkage available with Ultrakote. Is there any worry of the seam pulling apart while shrinking the Ultrakote?

A simple technique for cutting a matching curve in two pieces of covering so they match perfectly is to make a template that is the shape you want for the curve then overlap the two pieces and cut through both pieces at the same time following the curve on the template. Then it is just a matter of overlapping the two pieces a bit and adhering them with heat or trim solvent depending on the type of covering you are using. Flip the template over and you can easily make the second side of the fuse match the first side perfectly.

Siefring

Here is another thread with some ideas for you

[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2003852/anchors_2003852/mpage_1/key_covering%252Cseam%252Copen/anchor/tm.htm#2003852[/link]