endrew

what will be the effect of these:
http://www.spadtothebone.com/SPAD/Mufflers/

is it worth the trouble of making them?

shmo46

Yes

Kevins_RC

My Feedback: (1)

Definitely - YES!!!

Sport Flyer

My Feedback: (10)

What type of gain from the "Irvine" style Mousse can muffler, that uses the front of commercial muffler? I happen to have an Irvine muffler that shedded the back end, and this might be a nice alternative to buying a replacement.

Balsageek

Kevin,
Do you run a MCP on your Webra 50's? How much performance gain do you get? I haven't felt the need to do this yet because the stock muffler is already light, and the engines are very powerful.

Thanks,
Matt

shmo46

Endrew,

The length of the tube is the important part. if properly tuned you can get between 1000 and 2000 RPM increase depending on what prop and how well it is tuned. I just started playing with the Mouse can pipes only a few months ago, so there are plenty of others more experienced, but it is not hard to do. my first attempt was successful. Much has been written about them here on RCU. Try running a search. Macs also has a website that discusses tuning.

endrew

thats axactly the problem!
at the link i added you can see that at these mouse mufflers
you cant change the length of the tube.
you cant tune it after its done. so i ask again are the mouse mufflers at this link worth ruining a perfectly good normal muffler?
is there any affect? here's the link again:

http://www.spadtothebone.com/SPAD/Mufflers/

Billy Hell

My Feedback: (2)

Am I missing something in those instructions? Where do the gasses exit? All I see is a washer at the end and a 440 rod.

Graeme Marion

Try this link http://webpages.charter.net/rcfu/ConstGuide/MCM.html for all the information you need.

Kevins_RC

My Feedback: (1)

BalsaGeek - No, I run the Mac header and tuned pipe on my Webra 50's. Do I need it? - NO. Do I like it? - Definitely - YES! The extra power that the Mac Header and Tune Pipe offers to me, and my designs allows me to get those climbing; Tornados, flat spins, knife edge spins, and that is why I run them. I am going to run a MCM on at least one of my Webra 50s to better compare their perfromance. I've been experimenting with the MCMs on my Webra 32s currently on the PBXL and a will shortly on a Flatbat Combat SPAD I'm playing with right now.

Endrew - I would not ruin a perfectly good muffler to try the one that you mentioned (IMO). I would invest in a Mac Header and go to my local drug store and find a can to 'fit the bill'. Do not cut the header, though find a can that you can slip the silicone coupler (that comes with the header) over the header, and then the top of your can over the header and silicone coupler. Allow the header to extend into the can with the end about 1/4" to 1/2" from the bottom of the can. Install your stinger in the bottom of the can. This setup allows you to slide the can along the header pipe for fine tuning. You only have to sacrafice a nylon wire tie to make tuning adjustments.

Billy - You drill holes in the bottom of the can on the outside edge for exhaust, or you can install a stinger in the bottom of side of the can. The problem with this design is the tuning part, as expressed in Endrew's fustration. If you loose the end of your muffler, this is a great alternative, though what you get with your set-up, is it, unless you want to play with different size cans, and exhaust hole location. Pending on your geographical location, prop, and fuel your running will effect your tuning parameters and performance.

Hope that this offers some help - Guys!
Kevin

tailspnr

My Feedback: (1)

Billy, I just went through the entire Irvine MCP assembly and was back to ask the exact same question. It looks to me like you just stopped up a perfectly good muffler.......Dohhh.

What did we miss?

tailspnr

My Feedback: (1)

Oops, didnt get my post in before Kevin's answer....hate it when that happens.

Kevins_RC

My Feedback: (1)

You snooze - you LOOSE!!! <LOL>
Kevin

shmo46

Isn't this the poormans copy of the ultra thrust muffler? Those don't need tuning. You just bolt it on and GO. big power difference too. Could it be that someone has already taken the time to figure out what works well before he went to all the trouble of posting these instructions? The instructions are quite specific on the length of the tube, besides you CAN change the length of the tube. silicone glue is not JB weld. It flexes, peels and tears away at the slightest opportunity. There is a reason for the long bolt.

Better yet, when you get to the step of gluing the can in place. Don't! instead get some silicone coupling tube. Macs sells it as a replacement part for their headers. If you use aluminum tube the same size as the macs header, the silicone tube will be a snug fit to the opening of the can (the cans may come in different sizes but the tops are all the same.) you can slide the can on to the coupler and tune it like a trombone, or take it off and trim the length of the tube.

i prefere the ones based on the macs header, but if you prefere this style, great. all that matters is accoustic length. if that works out well you will love this muffler, if not, you may have to try again. i have been fortunate to have a couple Header style mufflers work very well, but on occasion they do not. the possible gains are worth the effort. if you prefer not to risk a little effort, just buy the ultrathrust, they work great every time

best regards and good luck.

fickjr

Has anybody made a mousse can muffler for a Moki 1.8? I have, and I had trouble with heat of the engine destroying the JB weld joint connecting a short brass tube to the end of the mousse can. Any hints would be welcome.
Thanks,
Chuck

jmulder

My Feedback: (6)

I have a couple of these to fit an OS 40 and 46 FX. They work great but look like crap. I took em off...........John