AEROHAWK HELP
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AEROHAWK HELP
i bought the smartech aerohawk nearly around 6-8 months ago i have not even had one flight it dose not fly you cant trim it i have had to send it bvack thenit cam i had to pay for all the shipping and the excises duty and when it came back it was all broken so basically they broke it said it wsa fixed and sent it back to me also they said that they would send me another controller a 4yf instead of a gws and they sent us the sme broken one.
i am going to buy som parts to fix it but this time around can som one please tell me how to set it up prperly.
HELPPP
i am going to buy som parts to fix it but this time around can som one please tell me how to set it up prperly.
HELPPP
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RE: AEROHAWK HELP
Warning! Never connect the battery to the helicopter without first switching ON the transmitter and never switch off the transmitter before disconnecting the battery from the helicopter. Not doing so may result in your helicopter going haywire and killing nearby pets, rodents, birds and furniture. Maybe not that bad but it's not pleasant.
Setting up the flybar:
Leave the battery disconnected for this. Level the swash-plate so that it's horizontal by rotating the servo arms manually, then set the flybar paddles so that they are perfectly horizontal as well, or point ever so slightly upwards (better than downwards). Now set the distance between each paddle and the main rotor hub accurately and lock the top set screw. Make sure the paddles are parallell with the flybar-link in the center of the head.
Blades:
Leave the battery disconnected for this. Tighten the blade-bolts so that when you push a rotor blade you turn the rotor instead of swinging the blade, but don't tighten it much more than that. you can experiment with this later. The grab each blade-tip at the trailing edges and pull gently to straighten the rotor.
Setting the CG:
rotate the rotor so that the blades point forward and backwards. Now put one finger under each side of the flybar on the inside by the head and gently lift it. Move the battery in the tray so that the helicopter skids are as close to level as possible.
Running up the rotor:
Make sure all the trims on the transmitter are centered (except for the throttle and throttle trim which should be all the way down) before you connect the heli-battery. Now check that the swash plate is relatively level.
As you run up the rotor the tail will be unstable at first, dont' start to trim the tail until you have reached a near takeoff RPM, just keep it stable with the stick. When it's running at a high ground-RPM you can trim the tail so that it doesn't rotate. Bend down and look at the flybars from the side while they are running now. Check that they are running in a flat plane and if necessary use the cyclic trims on the transmitter to adjust it. The helicopter will NOT be stable because, well... it's a helicopter. It will pull left on takeoff if you take it slowly because the tail rotor is counteracting the rotor torque by pushing that way and this is the result of those forces, don't worry about this. Just compensate by gently giving right cyclic stick.
The helicopter might vibrate pretty violently the moment it starts to lift the skids if you take it very slowly up, don't worry about this as it will stop when the rotor speed increases a bit. As the helicopter leaves the ground look at the skids and tail-boom to see if they wobble. This is a sign of rotor blades mis-configuration. If they wobble in the air after it has cleared the ground completely, set it down again and tug at the blade tips to straighten them again as I described earlier. If necessary, tighten the rotor blades a tiny bit more.
Trim-flights:
Run up the speed to near takeoff RPM and then gently give it enough power to lift approximately 1' (one foot) up into the air. Don't worry too much as it's probably going to be uneventful if you're followed the points above. When you are up notice which way the helicopter wants to go and then set it down again. If you feel that you lose control at any time just immediately drop the throttle completely and it will fall to the ground unharmed. I dropped mine many many times when I first started flying. Don't ever try to fly out of an uncontrolled situation. You only want to trim it for now. Continue the one foot jumps until you have a relatively well trimmed helicopter. It will never be hands-off stable except for a second or two.
Now you can try longer jumps if you like (this is what I did), or ground run to get the feel of the thing. Remember to just drop the throttle if you lose control and it will stop with a short skid. Helicopters have to be flow constantly with all channels and it takes practice to get the hang of it.
I got mine on friday and I can now hover perfectly controlled and fly slowly around and land on an area the size of a sheet of paper. I still can't cope all that well with pointing the nose at me but I'm getting there. I can do 90 degrees. I have still to break a part apart from the tail rotor motor which died on me.
Good Luck!
Tor Arne
Norway
Setting up the flybar:
Leave the battery disconnected for this. Level the swash-plate so that it's horizontal by rotating the servo arms manually, then set the flybar paddles so that they are perfectly horizontal as well, or point ever so slightly upwards (better than downwards). Now set the distance between each paddle and the main rotor hub accurately and lock the top set screw. Make sure the paddles are parallell with the flybar-link in the center of the head.
Blades:
Leave the battery disconnected for this. Tighten the blade-bolts so that when you push a rotor blade you turn the rotor instead of swinging the blade, but don't tighten it much more than that. you can experiment with this later. The grab each blade-tip at the trailing edges and pull gently to straighten the rotor.
Setting the CG:
rotate the rotor so that the blades point forward and backwards. Now put one finger under each side of the flybar on the inside by the head and gently lift it. Move the battery in the tray so that the helicopter skids are as close to level as possible.
Running up the rotor:
Make sure all the trims on the transmitter are centered (except for the throttle and throttle trim which should be all the way down) before you connect the heli-battery. Now check that the swash plate is relatively level.
As you run up the rotor the tail will be unstable at first, dont' start to trim the tail until you have reached a near takeoff RPM, just keep it stable with the stick. When it's running at a high ground-RPM you can trim the tail so that it doesn't rotate. Bend down and look at the flybars from the side while they are running now. Check that they are running in a flat plane and if necessary use the cyclic trims on the transmitter to adjust it. The helicopter will NOT be stable because, well... it's a helicopter. It will pull left on takeoff if you take it slowly because the tail rotor is counteracting the rotor torque by pushing that way and this is the result of those forces, don't worry about this. Just compensate by gently giving right cyclic stick.
The helicopter might vibrate pretty violently the moment it starts to lift the skids if you take it very slowly up, don't worry about this as it will stop when the rotor speed increases a bit. As the helicopter leaves the ground look at the skids and tail-boom to see if they wobble. This is a sign of rotor blades mis-configuration. If they wobble in the air after it has cleared the ground completely, set it down again and tug at the blade tips to straighten them again as I described earlier. If necessary, tighten the rotor blades a tiny bit more.
Trim-flights:
Run up the speed to near takeoff RPM and then gently give it enough power to lift approximately 1' (one foot) up into the air. Don't worry too much as it's probably going to be uneventful if you're followed the points above. When you are up notice which way the helicopter wants to go and then set it down again. If you feel that you lose control at any time just immediately drop the throttle completely and it will fall to the ground unharmed. I dropped mine many many times when I first started flying. Don't ever try to fly out of an uncontrolled situation. You only want to trim it for now. Continue the one foot jumps until you have a relatively well trimmed helicopter. It will never be hands-off stable except for a second or two.
Now you can try longer jumps if you like (this is what I did), or ground run to get the feel of the thing. Remember to just drop the throttle if you lose control and it will stop with a short skid. Helicopters have to be flow constantly with all channels and it takes practice to get the hang of it.
I got mine on friday and I can now hover perfectly controlled and fly slowly around and land on an area the size of a sheet of paper. I still can't cope all that well with pointing the nose at me but I'm getting there. I can do 90 degrees. I have still to break a part apart from the tail rotor motor which died on me.
Good Luck!
Tor Arne
Norway
#3
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RE: AEROHAWK HELP
thank u very much also i follow theese procegers all the time anywayz Warning! Never connect the battery to the helicopter without first switching ON the transmitter and never switch off the transmitter before disconnecting the battery from the helicopter. Not doing so may result in your helicopter going haywire and killing nearby pets, rodents, birds and furniture. Maybe not that bad but it's not pleasant. becauase i fly model planes and have my certificates.
THANK YOU VERY MUCHH
THANK YOU VERY MUCHH
#4
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RE: AEROHAWK HELP
Would like some assistance in helping me fly my new Aerohawk for the first time... Currently, it moves side-ways and doesn't go up!!! I've tried balancing the main rotor blades, flybar paddles and finally tightened all possible screws just enough not to over do it...
What am I doing wrong???
Please help!!!
What am I doing wrong???
Please help!!!
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RE: AEROHAWK HELP
I had this problem and it was because the large plastic gear wasn't fully meshed with the main motor gear. In other words, the tines were skipping so the blades didn't rotate fast enough. I fixed this by looking at the bottom of the motor and noticed 2 screws. I loosened them, pushed the motor towards the large plastic gear then tightened them back up again. My rotor blades spin fine now and after that was able to finally get some altitude (bout an inch or 2 but it was my first time flying the heli). Working on trimming now and going to follow the previous post (which was quite good and helpful).
-Mark
-Mark