Paul Cataldo

My Feedback: (10)

Guys,
I am about to receive my 2.6m Yak, and have a big concern with the control linkage set up.
I know those of you that are building this plane, OR those of you that have built a 2.6m Extra can help.
I am seriously considering setting up the linkage similar to the 3.3m Yak and 3.1m SuperXtra.
Basically, this means installing an extra phenolic horn spaced apart from the stock control horn, with a ball link in the middle of the two. I am guessing that 3.3m Yak owners who have this setup, must have an SWB servo arm ALSO with ball link on the servo side. I am not sure what you 3.3m guys have on the servo side, but if someone knows, please let me know.
My other quesions are as follows:

1. Does Composite Arf supply these ball links, or is everyone with a 3.3m Yak using Rocket City/Nelson ball links?

2. How difficult would it be to install this extra control horn, that I am considering? What could be used to make a nice, extra slit in the aileron, for the extra control horn?

3. What does everyone think of using TWO phenolic control horns, GLUED together, and instead of having the ball link in the MIDDLE of TWO phenolic horns, I would just have a ball link on the SIDE of two phenolic horns that would be glued together. The whole point of this, ist that when a ball link is used with ONLY 1 phenolic horn, a twisting motion could result, which would be no good. Using two phenolic horns glued together, would strengthen the horn, of course. What do you guys think?

Before everyone starts telling me that the stock set up is ok to use, I know it probably is safe, but I just can't see MYSELF using those crappy little Dubro locking clevises that most of you are using. (No offense guys, honest).
I've just always liked ball links, because they have NO binding, and they are a much stronger set up.
Why Composite Arf could not just set this plane up like the big 3.3m is beyond me. I think we should get the 2.6m just like the 3.3m comes from the factory.
Any thoughts guys? Thanks...

Flyfalcons

I would not do option #3. Cutting a slot for another horn shouldn't be too difficult with a dremel. I would tell you that the stock system is fine, but you asked us not to. But it is fine.

DKjens

My Feedback: (50)

Paul,
Rather than cutting more slots in the wing, and dealing with realligning horns and servo mount etc. I would try to find somebody locally who could copy the stock phenolic horns in another material like aluminum or titanium or maybe even SS, but something with better stifness to resist the twistingg motion of a ball joint. I think somebody in Australia did this, you can find him on Darcy's web site www.composite-arf-world.com
DKjens

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

Just a thought but you may find your 'second' slot for the horn doesn't go into the balsa blocks they set into the control surfaces. If that is the case you'll have to cut a hole and set another balsa block in etc which is all hassle for what I perceive to be very little gain.

I know you don't want to hear it but my 2.6m Extra is set up stock and handles near flat out snaps fine! I'm using the stock setup on my 2.6m Yak.

Let us know what you do in the end though.

Rgds,
Mark

Darrinc

My Feedback: (5)

Not that they know it all, but Composite Arf does not recommend ball links on there 2.6's. I found this because I just ordered a Extra myself. I have heavily abused a Cap for 5 years with a setup like there stock setup with no problems.

It's on their webpage in the downloadable manual and explains why.

IMO, It would be to heavy for this light airplane. The big YAK is almost double the weight of the 2.6, so please don't complain that your 2.6 flies like a pig after you add a bunch of unnessesary weight.

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

C-ARF don't recommend ball links on the single control horns - which is understandable. Paul is talking about sandwiching a ball link between two horns as per the 3.3m Yak which would be fine although, IMO unnecessary.

To convert to the 3.3m setup you'd have to add 6 new horns which I guess would only add about 2oz if that?

Paul Cataldo

My Feedback: (10)

Darrin, Please......

DKjens

My Feedback: (50)

Paul,
Why don't you see if you can find some of those small ballbearings that comes in the aluminum horns with the Double Vision. Drill out the hole in the C-A horns to fit the BBs, use a clevise with a perfect fit in the BB, and you have a no slop, no twist system, which I think is what you are after more, than the strength of using dual control horns.
DKjens

Darrinc

My Feedback: (5)

I'm not trying to be negative, but I see and hear it all the time.

"My plane X, made by company Y, has exessive wing rock, won't snap well, has this or that bad flying quality...ect, so I wouldn't recommend this plane"

Only to find out it was a 25% built at 18lbs or a 33% built at 30lbs... ect...

2oz would be great for the mod, but I can't see it done at that weight, it's just not the nature of making mods, especially mods that are at the appendages were it will increase the rotational weight and affect the balance. For some reason they always come out heavy.

You might want to check the threads to see how they are balancing with the engine that you plan to use. If they need tail weight that would be great, but if they come out tail heavy, you might be aggravating the situation.

Richo

Hi,

I have my 2.6 Extra set up using alloy control horns with titanium turn buckles and ball links, at the servo end I have 1.5" SWB alloy arms. I have since set up four 2.6 Extra's using glass fiber horns. The glass fiber horns are far stronger and stiffer than the std horns supplied in the kit. I have used the std clevises and control horns on my first 2.6, but found that they started to wear and become sloppy after some time.

Our local Comp-Arf agent now has a linkage upgrade kit that he has put together. He has the horns cnc machined localy. It comes with the glass fiber horns, titatium turn buckles, ball links and all the bolts and nuts. I have built a lot of 2.6's for folks and the linkage up grade kit is the first thing I recommend. I have been using this system for 12 months as have most of my freinds with comp-arf's, to date none have failed or caused any kind of flutter. For a small abount of money you get a better system that is going to be slop free for a long time. As for making the gear train in your servo's slope free!! Well that's a whole other problem! I agree with the statement in the manual that the std horns may twist with ball links.

Cheers,

Richo

Vicster

My Feedback: (8)

Hi Richo- Vic here from Arizona, USA. Very impressive set up you have. I was wondering what you use to glue the aluminum to the material in the control surface. Please let me know.
Thank you
Vicster FL-PSU

Richo

Hi Vicster,

I epoxied the horns in with Loctite Hisol. I drilled a couple of holes in the horn as well as notching (saw toothed) the edge of the horn. They have been in for around 12 months now with no problems.

Cheers,

Richo

didiwatt

My Feedback: (38)

Paul:
I am just like you, kind of anal about using slop free ball links. On my 2.6, I did just what you where thinking about in your #3. Since I did not use the supplied phenolics for the rudder setup, I cut extra horns for the airleron and elevator from that material and glued them together. There was plenty of balsa block in all flying surfaces for the extra width. The end result is an extremely rigid horn with no give what so ever in any direction. Have lots of flights on my 2.6 with no problems and am doing the same thing on my new 2.3.

Since I did not run out of balsa block on any of my flying surfaces, you might have enough room to split the horns like the super extra. I thought about it but chickened out.

Paul Eagon

Paul Cataldo

My Feedback: (10)

I hear ya Paul.
I'm stoked about this new method, and believe it should work fine. My upgrade horns should be here soon.