jc03

Hello. I bought a used Rio 51 Z last year and have already broken 2 flex cables with limited use. The boat does have a 29cc kit, header and tuned pipe so I'm not sure if the extra power is doing it or if the cable is just weak? Could I also be installing it wrong? Does anyone have any suggestions on a beefier cable or advice on what I can do to prevent this? I've greased the 2 former cables after each use. A google search also showed no options for a better cable?

crapshooter

how does the flex cable attach to the engine collet ? push in square end of cable or like a drill chuck round end ? a good cable is the Aeromarine Brand. also is your cable a 1/4 inch diameter ?

Got RPM

There is excessive gap between the the stuffing tube and the collet on this model, this can cause cable breakage.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...I=LXYLG8**&P=3


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Justaddwata

My Feedback: (3)

at what point are the cables breaking? You have a picture? Was it the same location on each? Would not anticipate it a matter of too much power.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

Those are famous for breaking as they do a weird soldering job on them. They're not your normal flex cable setup. I've seen 2 of these run and both had the same problem. I would have liked to have brought one home to see if there is a better way to do it. There is a Loc-Tite that you can use on the cable and prop shaft that's just as good if not better than the solder job but I don't know the number of it.
It seems like I'm the only one so far that knows about your problem. Why they went the route they did I don't know but the only good thing about it is that when it goes, you don't lose your prop.
For those who want to see the setup, the pictures aren't that good but it's on page 13. [ATTACH]2212098[/IMG]

jc03

Thanks for the replies. It's 1/4" and square. I searched everywhere for a beefier direct replacement without any luck. I spoke with Tim at Gizmo and he is sending me a custom cable with a new pulley/collet. I'm hoping this solves the problem. I should have it early next week. Does anyone have experience removing the old pulley? It sounds like it could be challenging.

Ron Olson

My Feedback: (1)

You could dump the square drive setup and go to a regular round collet setup.
There's a bolt inside that you have to remove with a metric Allen wrench. It's not that bad to do.

jc03

Thanks Ron. I'm going to try and remove the old collet setup this weekend. I'm sure it will become clearer once I receive the new cable but in checking out the broken one I'm not sure what I have to remove from it to add to the new cable? There is a rigid ~3' or so part that goes in the stuffing tube on the old one.

jc03

I received the new cable and it looks like it's definitely an upgrade. I'm concerned about the tail end of it though. I believe the term is stinger. The new cable doesn't have even the same diameter rigid inner section. Can anyone tell me what I need to do? How much cable should overhang the back of the stinger? Thanks in advance.[img][ATTACH]2212856[/IMG][/img]

digerman

I upgraded my rio 51 with a motor from gizmo and would tear up a shaft every weekend I ended up making new brass bushings with 1/4 id and used 1/4 round flex from gizmo and changed the collet to round haven't broke one since

jc03

Thanks for the reply. I don't have the resources or expertise to make these bushings. Do you know if anyone that sells them?

digerman

I don't think you can buy them anywhere I made them myself took me 5 min must be a machine shop close by you can have them made

danielplace

The barrel needs to be modified to accept the slip in style bushing. After that it is plug and play.

Take that old shaft out of the barrel and knock the integral bushings out. Then you need to neck it down with different sizes of brass tubing until the barrel accepts 5/16" brass tube for slip in bushing to fit into. Might be better to have a new barrel made with a 5/16" I.D. but that will require a lathe and machinist.

Just don't set it up at all like it was. The drive dog must never push forward and contact the bushing or the drive. If it does it will destroy the cable in short order. You don't use thrust washers because you leave a large (3/8" minimum)gap between drive dog and slip in bushing. All the push is on the collet only.

jc03

Thanks Daniel. I appreciate the detailed reply. The folks at Bonzai have been super helpful and shipped me a stinger that has a barrel that will work.

Can you explain the second part about the spacing again? I'm not exactly sure on the terminology. Sounds like that may have contributed to my cable breakage in the first place.

danielplace

It was correct before because it was a square drive it just didn't work because of low quality but what you are doing now is setup completely different with the round collet type of drive that is where the prop pushes up front on the collet. . You must leave a minimum 3/8" gap in the rear between the propeller drive dog and the back of the strut, stinger or bushing. You do not want it to be able to touch. The prop jams that forward considerably so leave a nice gap.

Personally the last thing I would have done is bought a new drive. That drive is fine it just needs to be necked down to 5/16" is all.
Be sure your stuffing tube is extended into the drive as the new style slip fit bushing has to receive grease from the driveline and it also keeps the lube from being pushed out by the spiral flex pushing it all reward. Personally I would not use the drive with integral sleeve bushings if the new one has that type of bushing already in it. Those need to be knocked out and replaced with 5/16" stuffing tube brass. Then you slip in your floating sleeve bushing and install the cable.