magnum500

anothr nice project . what did you use to cut the wood ? they look like nice clean cuts .

Chynewalker

<div>
</div><div>I have a benchtop Delta band saw that I use for the basic cutting.  I then lightly clamped the two halves together and sanded them 'til they were bang-on mirror images.  Same for all of the frames.  </div>

Chynewalker

<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: verdana, geneva, lucida, 'lucida grande', arial, helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; ">I got the nose pieces in place and added some of the bottom and deck battens.</span>

Chynewalker

Awhile back someone asked me what the real boat looked like underway. I found a pic of my Dad driving it with my 1952 Mercury KG-7H Hurricane on it. This was the first motor I ran on the boat when I got it. It did about 45-48 mph with that motor.

Chynewalker

Framing is more or less done at this point. Still have a lot of fairing to do to get everything flush and straight. I bought the wood for the skin this week and will see about getting it ready for that this weekend. Will have to figure out how to extend some clamps, or maybe get some new longer reach ones. The blue tape works great for the edges, but the stuff inwards is a bit more difficult...

jetpack

My Feedback: (1)

I've tried Ace bandages and also saran wrap for wrapping around the hull to try and clamp. It helps but it wasnt the whole answer. An electric staple gun with an adjustable power knob on it and some long staples worked for me too.

You have to have good aim and definetly practice a bit first hitting some wood with it but if you can live with staple holes its a good way to go but they are easy to fill after you pull the staples. Don't try and sink them, just set the power to where they grab good and leave the heads high for pulling after.

If you need to make removable tack joints a hot glue gun works awesome for it using the low temp glue sticks. Just keep the tacks outside of the joint so can peel them off and epoxy just those spots after your first glue is set up.

The decking along the cockpit sides can be pushed down with several blocks and tack glue the blocks to the cockpit sides as it cures.

The hull is looking great! Almost hate to cover them up sometimes because you never get to see it anymore after that.

One thing I would really like to try is building a canvas bow hydro. MonoKote would work great for it, but putting on fabric covering and some half round metal cap strips that they make for dollhouses to go around it would really be nice.

Chynewalker

Thanks for the ideas! I had actually thought of using wet sand as a weight to hold the hull in place. I'd lay a plastic bag over the bottom and then evenly pour in the sand, enough to get the hull to take the bend at the bow, etc. Not sure how much I'd need, but I think it might work. It would also assure even pressure so one area didn't get "squished" more than another. I might have to experiment with that idea...

magnum500

how`s the progress ?

Chynewalker

Kind of back-burnered for the moment as I got the parts and pieces to finish up my Robbe Prinzess.  I now have the plywood to skin the boat, so I am just awaiting the time to do it at the moment.  I hope to get a start on it this weekend...  I still have 2-3 months before I have open water to play in so I'm not in a huge hurry just yet... 

Jaywee

hi do u still have the PDF drawing for the boat?

Gasboat

That boat would fly with a nice nitro outboard.
Very nice build.
Ron

ic-racer

Anyone watching this thread know how to contact 152vo.de website? I have been trying to join the model boating forum there with no success. I have tried different browsers and e-mail addresses with no avail. Maybe the site is no longer moderated?

Tidnab

My Feedback: (51)

I saw this kind of boats race at Curwensville Lake in PA many years ago and was amazed at how fast they could go.