joeyhatch11

Looking to see what you guys think. I've had a Sprint 2 before with Mamba System and loved it. Always ran great and never had any issues. Looking at the Associated TC4, it looks kinda like the TT01 which I have had before and had some minor issue with. Can some tell me if the TC4 can handle a brushless system without any upgrades? Not looking to race either car just for some at work/parking lot fun and for some drifting.

Also considering these modles because Towerhobbies offers the "easy pay" option on them. So if anyone is going to make other suggestions, let it be something that can be found on Towerhobbies. There "easy pay" option is the only way I can stay in the game. LOL Thanks, Joe

t9dragon

My Feedback: (11)

Yes, a TC4 can handle the Mamba Max setups...

joeyhatch11

So I was talking with a buddy at work and we decided to go with the HPI Sprint 2 Drift. Figure it'll help as a nice past time in the car audio shop this winter when it's snowing. An then come spring we can always upgrade the motor's and swap out the tires.

gokemidoro

joeyhatch11,

When you do get the HPI Sprint 2 drift, do these;

If you have some bucks left, get the CV universals for all four corners. It will help with the extra power, when you change up to speed driving.

Get a ball diff for the rear. You can remove the balls (save them in a small container) and "lock" the diff with thin 3M double-sided tape from an office supply store. You can "unlock" it by removing the tape, and reinstalling the balls. You cannot do this with the stock gear diff, and you definitely need a locked diff for drifting.

Put about 3-31/2 ounces of lead weight on the front bumper, to even out weight distribution to drift. Use velcro, so you can remove it for speed driving.

Cut out the rear diff cover molded to the bulkheads. This will keep debris and rocks from tearing up the rear drive belt.

Invest in more sets of rims, so you can swap them out easily between grip and drift. This way, you don't have to struggle changing out tires all the time.

I would tell you to get a front one-way diff, but it will only help with drifting. You probably wouldn't like the way it makes the car handle with grip tires.

Check out raikoudrifttires.com Get the DXPE's. They will last you a good loooooooooooong time! You get three full sets of tires for something like $18.00, and it's doubtful you'll need drift tires for the next three or four years! No joke!

Give these mods a try, and those that areremovable/swappable will help, so you aren't wasting money on things all the time. </p>

joeyhatch11

I've owned a HPI Sprint before, like 2 years ago. I did the mod to the gear case because I did find that small rocks would get stuck in there and kill the belt and the diff. I also took the diff out and apart and applied some JB Weld to lock it up, but later went with the one way diffs. I liked that Sprint alot and found it to be a pretty solid chassis. But I had an overkill of brushless power in it with a Mamba 7700kv system. Fun and fast with some grippy tires but drifting was too much slip, not enough grip. I'm going to try the 3M tape trick on the rear diff when I get it and also cut the rear out again. Can you guys give me an idea of how long a run time I'll get on a 5200mah 7.4v lipo? Back when I had my Sprint I was running Nihm's and they would only yield 7-8 minutes of fun LOL.

gokemidoro

Depends on what Kv motor you plan to run, and what transmitter you use.

I run a Spektrum, and run the travel adjustment for throttle at 60% with a 5700 Kv motor, spinning a 20T pinion. I get about 20-25 min. on a 5000 Mah Venom LiPo. That's with running the Mamba Max Pro adjusted via Castle Link. I have the throttle setting there at 70%, running a "curve", so throttle output ramps up, the more you give. It's nice and smooth, but still puts out more wheel speed than I need. I'm thinking of running the ESC down to 60%, just like the transmitter setting. With a 5200 Mah LiPo, you should get a few minutes longer than I'm getting, provided you have adjustments at the transmitter.

I think if I put grip tires on it, it would go about35 MPH max. Somewhere around there. If I ran everything up to 100%, I could probably get 70 MPH, but I'm not into speed, anymore- too many broken parts, that I'm not willing to waste money on.

Yah, 7700Kv was waaaay too much. You could get by with the "new" 4600 Kv motor Castle is putting out now, or change out the plugs on a Traxxas Velineon motor. Those are only 3500 Kv, and I've tried that in my old Ofna chassis, with good results. The thing is, if you wanted to pull even more power for speed, you could run an 11.1V LiPo, because the 4600 and 3500 Kv motors would allow that. 5700 Kv is still 2C limited. the next system I get will have the 4600 Kv motor.

joeyhatch11

Well looking in my new Xtreme RC Cars magazine and Castle just released the SideWinder SCT. Granted it says Short Course Truck edition but I'm sure it'll have no problem going in a Sprint 2. The system is onlt $119.95 and has a 3800kv motor. So when I get tired of the 15T that comes with the RTR I think I'll be looking at the SCT system. 3800kv's should be plenty for a drift right? Also I currently have a Associated RC8e with LRP SPX8 brushless and have a Airtronics M11 Tx for it as well. Was planning on getting another Rx for the Sprint and taking advantage of all the fun settings the M11 has to offer, like the throttle curve adjustments.

Here's a link to the new SideWinder SCT combo. Wont be out till Late October though.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXAETT&P=ML

gokemidoro

Call Castle and ask about the Sidewinder SCT. The profiles will be different. You should still be able to program it, like other Castle ESC's, so it shouldn't be a problem.

What you are looking for is SMOOTH power output. Out of the box, Castle systems are somewhat "peaky", and raw in their output. You need to tone that down w/ the Castle Link. The tech guys at Castle will tell you how to do that.

The 3800 is plenty for drift! In fact, it's a better choice than the ones I have, which are 5700's, and I had to tone them down to 60%!!

Call: (913) 390-6939 Push the number for tech staff, and they'll take care of you.

gokemidoro

Oh, BTW, I thought it better to answer your question on rims here, as some folk get irritated when you ask questions not germane to the thread they started..........

Offset is the amount a rim is "off center" from the center of the HUB. If you look at your car from the front, look at the wheels, like the left front (which is the example I will use here). If the hub were dead-center of the wheel, it would be 0 offset. If it "sticks out" from the hub, meaning further out from the center of the car, that is positive offset. If it is closer to the center, it is negative offset. Since most cars use wheels that "stick out", it is positive offset they use. The millimeter designations used to describe a certain amount of offset tell you how much the rim will "stick out". For instance, 3MM offset is 3 millimeters positive offset, or 3MM to the right (using the left front wheel example).
The amount of rim you see is an "eyeball" estimate of offset in a wheel, which is the question you were asking, I believe. I tell people to get extra wheelsets for different tires, but playing with offsets is the best way to get acquainted with offset. By looking closely at each offset, you will be able to tell a wheel's offset at a glance, as I did with the person at the other thread, just by looking at his car.

Besides which, It gives you a chance to play with wheel styles, to better match the color and style of the body you choose. I have only two drifters, right now, butI have 12 full sets of wheels, in different styles and offsets and tire types!