futrccn

I'm brand new to the site by the way.....So I get me a Revo 3.3 with a os 21 engine, a few small upgrades. I got it dirt cheap rtr all i needed was gas, so a week after staring at it I finally get some gas and get home and go to a nearby empty parking lot and just wear it out. After about 45 minutes of this I experience a disenegrated clutch bell. So this morning after a another week of staring I go to LHS and get a clutch bell. I put it in and drive it around the parking lot in the apartment to make sure it will move again and all goes well, until the clutch bell disenegrates again(due to the bearingsthat didnt get replaced).So I gather my daughter and drive BACK to the LHS and get another clutch bell and bearings and go the to the state park to do some more bashing in a huge open field, get there and no cranky. Batteries in the starter dead, so charge it up....no cranky. So I fool with this thing for about 2 hours and come up with a bad glow plug. So I driveBACK to theLHS and get a glow plug for a os 21 engine, go BACK to the state park get everything back out, install the glow plug and what do ya know the glow plug wire for the EZ start crap wont fit on this glow plug. So piled everything BACK into the car and go home to yet again enjoy another week of a staring contest.........So now i'm assuming I need a glow plug for a stock revo 3.3??

378

My Feedback: (4)

Just get a seperate glow ignitor. It's easier on the EZ-start if it doesn't have to light the plug, and the seperate ignitor is a bit more reliable.

futrccn

makes sense, then I wont have to deal with the fact of wasting $9 on a glow plug. wont the EZ Start stillexert energy to the wireor should I just disconnect it at the connector mid-way through the wire?

378

My Feedback: (4)

It won't draw any power unless it's connected to something metal on the engine. Wrap it in electrical tape, tie it off somewhere safe, and forget about it.

futrccn

10-4 thanks for the advice. does it make sense that the clutch bell was coming apart because the bearings were shot? because I havent ran it since i put the new clutch bell and bearings in......

378

My Feedback: (4)

They would let the gear mesh get out of whack. Worn bearings is what caused my CEN to eat clutch bells, though in that truck it was the bearings holding the spur, not the bell. I had to get new bearings every time I got a new bell because, oddly enough, the old ones expanded enough to render them permanently in the old, shredded bell.

On that truck, I would go through bells about one every three tanks or so.

Telecaster

My Feedback: (1)

That would get old real quick for me. Are you sure all of the appropriate washers were in place? Seems like it might accelerate the wear if one were missing...

378

My Feedback: (4)

It did. That's why I retired that truck and bought a TC3 instead. I got tired of all the flop causing it to eat clutch bells and handle like a Mack...

futrccn

how it was and how i put it back together......bearing-clutch bell-bearing-washer-e clip......both broke the same way, the actual gear broke off the bell part of it. when i took it off i noticed the clutch shoe on the top was worn unevenly hard to explain, but im not gonna be thrilled if another breaks. this thing will get traded off for a electric on-road

Telecaster

My Feedback: (1)

It might be possible also that you're mating the bell gear too tightly with the spur gear(s). I read somewhere that you're supposed to put a small strip of paper between the gears when mating them up.

And I also think that there should be a washer between the 1st bearing and the flywheel nut { .<u>washer</u>-bearing-clutch bell-bearing-washer-e clip }

I'm still a no0b so take this all with a grain of salt. I'm just trying to think of possible causes here..

The_Shark

bells/bearings will wear very quickly if they are not 100% dead on. they must be flush with the shoes, must have a washer before and after the bearings, must not be pre-loaded or loose, the must be mated to the spur with a bit of play in the teeth, and one thats over looked- the bell/engine must be perfectly flat, if the bell is tilted at all, it will wear the bearings out

my first nitro- a evader. would destroy spurs and bearings every time i ran it, those bearings are $8 and the spur $4 what was the problem is the engine screws where stripped, and the motor was tilted just a bit, i over looked it because i was so young and broke.