bambo

<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Verdana, Arial; font-size: 13px; -webkit-border-horizontal-spacing: 1px; -webkit-border-vertical-spacing: 1px; ">i've done a little research and i think im gonna upgrade my 1/10 brushless car with a 5.5T 6000Kv motor, a 5300mah 3s 30C lipo, and im going to be staying with my 60A brushless esc. My only question is will my esc be able to handle it?</span>Here are the links to the specs:

ESC: http://www.nitrorcx.com/3303-2010.html
Motor:http://www.nitrorcx.com/ezrun-5-5t-s...ensorless.html
Battery:http://www.nitrorcx.com/98p-30c-5300-3s1p.html<br type="_moz" />

dragnse7en

I just read the specs for your ESC from the link that you provided.

<table cellspacing="1" cellpadding="5" border="0" bgcolor="#cccccc" align="center" style="width: 638px; height: 202px;"> <tbody> <tr> <td bgcolor="#ffffff" align="center"></td> <td bgcolor="#ffffff" colspan="2"><font face="Arial" color="#555555"> <font color="#ffffff" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #555555"> 1Specification</font> </font> <div align="justify"><font face="Arial" color="#555555">1.1 Output: Continuous current 60A, burst current 190A.
1.2 Input: 4-9 cells NiMH/NiCd or 2-3 cells LiPo.</font></div> <div align="justify"><font face="Arial" color="#555555">1.3 BEC Output: 6V/1.5A.</font></div> <div align="justify"><font face="Arial" color="#555555">1.4 Resistance: 0.0015 Ohm.</font></div> <div align="justify"><font face="Arial" color="#555555">1.5 Motor Supported: Sensorless BrushlessMotor</font></div> <div align="justify"><font face="Arial" color="#555555">1.6 Suitable Brushless Motor: </font></div> <div align="justify"><font face="Arial" color="#555555"> With 4-6 cells NiMH/NiCd or 2 cells Lipo: On-Road<font color="#555555">&ge;9T, Off-Road&ge;12T;</font>
With 6-9 cells NiMH/NiCd or3 cells Lipo: On-Road<font color="#555555">&ge;12T, Off-Road&ge;18T;</font>
1.7 Suitable Car:1/12, 1/10 on-road or off-road cars / trucks fornormal race or sportful race.
1.8 Size: </font><font face="Arial"> <font color="#555555">31.5mm(L) * 27.5mm(W) * 24mm(H).
1.9 Weight: 30g(Without wires)</font> </font></div> </td> </tr> </tbody></table>
You may have missed it, but the specs call out that is only suitable for a 9T or higher wind BL motor. Run that 5.5T BL on it and it will work for a little while. The ESC will most likey overheat and if you cool it down and then keep running it again, you'll eventually fry it and kill it to deth.

bambo

@dragnse7en<div>
</div><div>yeah, I didn't catch that part. The 60A esc will only handle 12T when running my 3s lip's which we obviously fry it. So I found this 120A esc, which is a lot more expensive, but it should handle a 5.5T motor with 3s lipo's. JUst want to make sure this esc will work: </div><div>http://cgi.ebay.com/Hobbywin-XERUN-Competition-Car-Brushless-Motor-120A-ES-/380327168005?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&am p;hash=item588d440805#ht_4343wt_907</div><div>
</div><div>
</div>

dragnse7en

Double check the specs for your motor. I run a 7700Kv BL motor from CC, and it is highly recommended that you do not run it on a 3S lipo. I called tech support there, and he said that the RPMs from that extra voltage create too much centrifugal force for the stator to handle, and eventually the magnets on it will shatter and junk the whole thing.

I would just double check those specs or call tech support (if they speak english) to see if that particular motor can sustain the higher RPMs from a 3S.

A 5.5T BL on a 2S is plenty of power for an on road 4WD touring sedan. Chances are you won't be able to get half that power into useable traction, unless you run it on an indoor carpet track with the right setup.

bambo

the distributor of these products(nitrorcx) actually made a video of a upgraded 1/10 on-road car with a 5.5 T motor and a 3s lip. Based on the video im assuming its safe, but i still double check on monday when tech support in available. Also, the 5.5T motor puts out 6000Kv which in under 7700, so there are less RPM's but the centrifugal force might be too high. And as you said, the only way to make that kind of power useable is by rung in in carpet. here is the video if you want to check it out:<div>
</div><div>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Be2-i2PwrQU</div>

dragnse7en

Watch that video again - two things I noticed that stuck out.

1. I noticed that he was easy with the throttle from a dead stop, which is very important for low turn motors. He did a great job of not goosing the throttle and killing the drivetrain, but -

2. 2:53 into the video, he spins the front wheels, and both forward in the same direction. I get that, as it may be a front direct coupling, but I noticed that when he spun the front wheels, the rear wheels didn't move at all. Either that car has a center diff attached to the spur gear, or I think something broke in the rear drivetrain. I think the drivetrain got trashed and the front diff seized up if it doesn't come with a front spool. It just looks very strange to me is what I guess I'm saying.

Just my observation - but check it out for yourself and be your own judge.

Oh, bye the way, stock up on spares and beef up the drivetrain, diffs and universals if possible. Making a 4WD touring car go much faster than it was designed for is simply asking to break it, one way or another, especially if you've never driven an rc car that fast before.

Good luck and post a video of it in action if you can

bambo

I also noticed something that moth say if something broke in the rear drivetrain. Before he runs it at 0:35 he turns the back wheel causing the other back wheel to move in the opposite direction and the front wheels to move in the same direction. I really don't know how drivetrains work so I was hoping for you advice on whether the drivetrain broke or not after the run.

dragnse7en

I looked at the specs on the Madspeed 350 drift car, and the kit comes with two ball diffs. He did mention that he tightened up both diffs, and it look like he still broke something along the propeller shaft line. I'll have a friend look at this video.

Interesting - I did notice that he moved the rear tires a bit but the front wheels looked like they both wanted to move forward.

Haddi Taha

the specs bambo provided for the ezrun 60amp are wrong.
Here are the true specs
Onroad 2s= 5.5t
Onroad 3s= 8.5t
Offroad 2s= 8.5t
Offroad 3s= 13.5t

It should also weigh 32 grams, not 30 grams.
After looking at it again it is the spec for the 35 amp except they have accidently wrote 60amps. burst current of the 60amp escis over 300amps from memory.

Haddi Taha

http://www.hobbywing.com/english/Art...?ArticleID=419

This page has the right specs

Haddi Taha

maybe the nitrorcx esc is a knockoff of the hobbywing esc.</p>

bambo

this is the actual car that I bought:<div>
</div><div>
</div><div>but in the spec in says nothing about an esc. when i got it i took a look at the esc and all it said in it was s10 rtr. I then found an esc on nitrorcx that looked like the one I had so i assumed they were the same. Also on this 1/10 car:</div><div>
</div><div>if you look at the pictures, that car is using the same esc as my car, because it says s10 rtr on the side as well. And in the spec for that car it says that a 60A ESC in being used, so the s10 rtr ESC must be 60A. SO my esc is 60A.</div>

bambo

wow... I just realized that the esc is sensored while the motor is sensorless. Can I still run a sensored esc with a sensorless motor?<div>
</div>

dragnse7en

I'm running my LRPX12 17.5T BLPro Stock motor with my Mamba Max Pro right now, and I haven't had a problem in 9 months. My esc handles both sensored and sensorless, and the LRPX12 has a sensor port on the endbell, but I've never used it.

You may want to ask around more though, because I can throw 25.4V thru my esc, with no motor limit, brushed or brushless, sensored or sensorless.

To be honest with you, I did the same research about two years ago when I first got a BL for my ride, and it appeared to me that it wouldn't hurt the motor or esc, the sensorless setup just makes the motor cog a bit starting up from dead stops once in a little while (once or twice thu a whole battery) but you get a litlle more power out of it. Just like the Twilight movie, there's team sensored and team sensorless. That's what I got out of it - bragging rights after whoever is the better driver.

Also, there are some race tracks that state the rules and specs for esc/ motor setups, including software mods, etc. So, if you wanna race, then check to see what the rules are at your local track.

Haddi Taha

take a pic of the esc and sensor port. </p>

dragnse7en

Here you go. Oh - my instructions said that the esc wires MUST be in order, and go to the correct terminals; red=A, white=B, and black=C for running sensored motors without its harness.

Haddi Taha

actually your motor is sensored and the esc is sensoreless, i can see the sensor slot in the back of the motor. I think the motor could be a LRP Vector X12 but can't see the rest of the can.

dragnse7en

No. My esc definitely has a sensor port.