dragonbat13

ok i am back to the junk computer keyboard with a bunch of favorite beverages spilled in it so the shift keys dont work along with others so bear with me


i know the 5.9 aint that great in my new savage xl along with the pipe.

i got a ofna 086 pipe on the way and will put that on it with the hopes of easier tuning.

anyway i plan on putting an lrp in it. so what am i gonna do with the 5.9
it cant be that bad, i am sure that you can mess with it and make it run better. being a mechanic by trade i plan on using my skills to see what happens. however i need some info on nitro engines in general, along with something that will tell me all about the geometery of nitro engines and the concept behind it.

does anybody know of any sites that dig deep into the nitro engine

thanks for bearing with my grammer and the help

SavagedXXL

Neal @ Clockwork (supertib) modded one for Glen (Bud Bud) and it ran really well. He put a Picco carb on it (IIRC), ported the sleeve and increased crank timing. The crank timing is the biggest gain to be had on a nitro engine. You need a degree wheel tofind out the factorycrank timing, and you need to know and understand where to remove the material. I've dabbled with it with some success, but I've only made small changes. I did some searches on it and found some decentinfo on the web. I experimented with a few Mach 427's and one of them ended up running pretty strong.

That being said, I've never been inclined to fool with my 5.9. I have lots of other better engines to start with, but it would be interesting to see if an amateur could get decent power out of one. </p>

SLAYERDUDE

First thing is to seal the engine up tight, only issues I've had with my 5.9 in 12 gallons is air leaks.
(Aside from recently having the carb body come loose)
I'm a 5.9 fanboi, bone stock with the stock XL pipe.

O.S. 8 glowplugs work great for me.

Seal the backplate and carb neck with a thin coating of Permatex RTV (black or copper), also seal over the pinchbolt that holds the carb in place with RTV on both ends.
Use Sil glyde or any silicone clear brake lube on the carb needle o-rings, I use the packets that come with some brake pads. (mechanic also)

Here's a great tutorial.
http://www.savage-central.com/module...Forums&t=54465

SavagedXXL

I agree - sealing it would be necessary to getmore power and air leaks are a big issue with the 5.9.

dragonbat13

well i can take care of the air leaks before i even have to get the lrp.

for some reason or another this truck just wants me to spend money on a new engine or maybe some lst shocks.

i suppose i am gonna have to buy another truck to put the extra engine in

chevymanmike1010

My Feedback: (11)

Ive been seein more and more mechanics getting into these forums. me and my rc buddies are all mechanics to. I prefer working on rc trucks but love workin 1:1 as well, especially my cammed out sierra. Im head body electrical tech at lively cadillac gmc. I love General motors and HPI. off topic, sorry, hahhaha.</p>

steed2-inactive

mechanic here also. I have a trans. shop. Diagnostics are my top skill, especially electrical issues. I have a 4 bay shop,2 techs on the floor, 1 builder, and myself. love my job, motocross, my kids, and my life in general! things are good....but these rc trucks.....man are they addicting...i find myslef looking for excuses as to why i need another truck....lol. You guys have any transmission questions, let me know, happy to help-scott

chevymanmike1010

My Feedback: (11)

sweet. Im mainly body electrical but before i came where im at ibuilt monster trucksan offroadingvehicles. lift kits, differentials including 2 1/2 ton rockwell swaps, transmissions engines everything. but now im head body electrical an i make damn good money doin it most of the time but this months been slow an im flag. still love it though. I still do alot of diesel work on the side along with performance. ive rebuilt a trans or two, both worked but its not really my thing. Ive got a trans problem rt now in myrace/a to btruck. couple months back my trans cooler busted in my radiator and coolant got in my trans. since then my torque converter locks and unlocks. my tc is showin 96% load at cruise. so ive got some pressure loss somewhere. somethins not sealing good. but my work is gonna goodwill it( cover it under warranty). other than that id be asking u where to start lookin lol.

steed2-inactive

the water in the antifreeze attacks the clutch material, and it doesnt take long, even after you flush it all out of the system, its usually too late. the converter clutch lining is more than likely smoked, along with the clutch's in the unit are probably on there way out also. the 96% your seeing is the duty cycle of the pwm lock up solenoid. they ramp the solenoid on for smoother engagement...96% is pretty much fully locked. Any more than 150 rpm slip on the tcc and its going to start setting P1870. Aslo the converter clutch regulator valve in the valve body will be more than likely worn out. Im going on a hunch here and guessing we are talking about a late model gm half ton......long story short...rebuild it and make sure to install the updated valves from sonnax or your wasting your money.. do the actuator feed limit valve, tcc regulator valve and tcc apply valve in the pump. -scott..if its a different truck let me know....but water in any trans ...ruins the paper clutch material fast