ameyam

Hi,

just received this engine from HK. Basically it was an insurance policy because, at 850g total, it is about the same as a dle 20 and has greater displacement. Plus the airplane I am buliding was too tail heay with the 20 and wing loading was too high with the 30. I had ordered it in August but due to customs delays, it has just come in an the guys also lost the user manual. So I hae a few questions-

What should I do to the engine even before I try to run it? Is any overhauling etc required?
What should thee needle settings be?
Are there any pecularities I should be aware of?

Ameyam

ameyam

Anyone?

Texastbird

I think you are the "guinea pig" for this engine. Is this a rear rotary valve engine or does it have reed valves?

Gizmo-RCU

My Feedback: (27)

Think I would stay away from carb settings until after you run it. Most of these engines are pre-run at the factory and should be close to right. If not mistaken Turnigy is made by XYZ and they run theirs.

I had the 50 HP and think a good Bowman Ring would be a great help as it was a poor starter but ran very well when running.

Keep us posted as it sounds good and something I might consider.

BigD_S2K

Good Luck, I purchased a Turnigy 30cc. Needs a side carb. Engine near impossible to start, once started runs strong and idles well. To spin it I had to have a full up battery charge to drive my Sullivan started. I start a MLD 35 & DLE 30, no problem. Engine is very tight hardly any difference between just turning it and compression. So I spent 170 on a spare carb & muffler.

ahicks

My Feedback: (2)

From the "files" section of the HK web site? Very often, HK will not ship a manual with "stuff". If you go back to the item on their website, and drop down below the pricing info to a set of tabs where you can see "reviews" for the item in question (good or bad, they're pretty good about publishing both), as well as any tech info available in the tab marked "files".

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...7X48229X19.pdf

ameyam

Actually before buyinf the engine I had posted here & one user had posted a lot of data. That was back in August & I cant find the post now. Its made by XYZ, its written on the ignition. I wont use that though, just a rcextreme power one. I cant have the engine shipped to the states for the ring so I am going to rum 3 tanks on the ground & then fly. I have a HK portable starter with 2 LiFe batteries connected h it is supposed to be able to start 50cc engines, so I presume it will do. The box recommends breakin with a 18x8, so I will start there & take it from there BTW, the HP-S version is supposed to have a rotary valve carb Ameyam

earlwb

The mounting lugs tend to be the weak point. They counter sunk the screws bolting the backplate onto the engine and that weakens the mounting lugs. I suggest using a piece of aluminum sheet metal plate about .065 to .10 inches thick to put up against the firewall in order to keep the standoffs level and even in relation to each other. This prevents uneven pressure on the mounting lugs and should help prevent them from breaking off. They may still sell the special CNC backplate for the XYZ 26cc engine (Octopus RC) and it has mounting lugs which are a little more strong too. The plywood firewall being organic will compress slightly differently for each standoff and the screws can come loose too. Thus the standoffs won't be perfectly level in relation to each other. The engine is a earlier version of the XYZ version. I think Hobby King got them to sell off at special prices sort of like a close out item.

If you have starting problems, you may need to check the reed valves and the mounting blocks and valve seat. They likely need to be smoothed out and made so they close up better and not leak. It is quite common for the engines from China to have reed valves that don't close up good.

ameyam

Taken. But I could use a pic of what you are referring to the reed valve mounting blocks and seat, I am not sure exactly what you are referring to

For the backplate, if I take the carb off to check what you are describing above, I could take those countersunk bolts off and reinstall slightly longer bolts with flat washers so that they no longer recess

Better, I am thinking is to use a rubber insert as isolator between the lugs and the standoff. In my case, the distance between the spinner backplate and the firewall needs to be around 150mm. This engine is longer but the standoffs can be shortened as there is still space behind the carb. I may put in neoprene donought between the lug and standoff so that its absorbs any offset in the standoffs and adds damping as a side effect

Ameyam

earlwb

Here is my example of the Turnigy HP-S 26cc gas engine. Do you see that black plastic spacer like block between the carburetor and the engine backplate? That is where the reed valves are at. Sometimes there is mold flashing preventing the reeds from seating flush with the frame. A little work with some extra fine sand paper usually does the trick to square it up. But you may not need to do anything until you try it. I have not taken my engine apart nor have I run it yet either.

The other pics are of the XYZ machined backplate. The mounting tabs are a little bit more robust versus the mounting tabs on the Hobby King version. But they still countersunk them for the bolts though, which unfortunately weakens the mounting tabs.

Octopus RC

My Feedback: (2)

It`s a very Q 26cc engine , maybe the lightest 26cc aero engine on market .

ameyam

Well I havent run it yet- On Sunday, I finally finished the airplane to the point I could test fire the engine and after much questioning why it wouldnt run or even draw fuel, I realised I didnt have the throttle connected
Then I connected up the throttle and it fired- a bit too well. Almost ran it half throttle because the linkage wasnt set up correctly . Just that kind of day. Gave myself and my mom (who was holding the airplane) a scare.
Since I havent done a full run, I can offer first impressions.
The carb is very similar to the Dle20. While figuring out what was wrong, I took off the side plate under which the filter sits. I put in the 20's filter, gasket and backplate for a short while. Its almost the same
In the little bit I ran, I found its not as smooth as the DLEs in the first run. Even turning it over by hand, its a bit rough. Indicates that the ring is hard and will take time to break in. To be fair, the manual also says that it needs a few tankfulls
The carb comes run fro the factory. My LSN was at 2 turns out. I know because I ended up fiddling with that in trying to figure out why it wouldnt start. They say to set it at 1 1/4 turn. The weather here is cold, we use 80 Octane petrol and I dont have a cowl on for the break-in, so I am going to open up just a quarter turn more for now
Oh, and the crank is not too long and threads are brittle. I found that using the recommended 18x8 in MAS, I wouldnt be able to fit a locknut or adapter for the spinner with the stock washer. I tried a 1/8" wide washer but it wasnt wide enough. Then I figured that a 18x6 APC I had would also suffice. But I tried a 8mm nylock nut and when I tried to put the Truturn adapter, the first thread sheared off the crank because it didnt thread in sufficiently. So I just used a standard 8mm nut and the adapter fitted on ok. It will also act as a locknut. Critical this because HK doesnt sell spares for the engine though you will find a full list of the parts in the manuals available on HK site in the files section

Overall, I am trying to be positive. Gas engines are fairly basic beasts and this engine is in a niche. Including the muffler and ignition, the engine weighs 850g. The dle 20 weighs 750 and the 30 weighs 1090 or so. So the engine sits in a nice place. Especially since the Phoenix Yak I am building and the AW Yak that will follow for this engine will be too tail heavy with the 20 and too heavy overall with the 30. Plus in inverted, the engine has its throttle arm in line with head- something that is required from this model's construction point of view to setup the throttle. Hope it has good power too

Ameyam