please help me someone
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please help me someone
ok i have a ofna gtp2e and my setup is turnigy trackstar 150a gen 2 esc and 2100 kv motor turnigy also. i dont know if i need to change the settings on the remote or what bt the car moves good when i hold it and throttle but if i put it on the ground it sputters and wont go only about 2mph . i took it all apart thinking it was the diff because it sounds like a broken tooth maybe but its not that it the esc and motor or radio not dialed in right maybe i read some where before to change epa or something on the radio but anyway do anyone have any ideas what to try.. thank you for the help
Last edited by almaidah; 10-07-2015 at 05:08 PM.
#2
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Try recalibrating it as it says in the manual.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...7X53414X36.pdf
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...7X53414X36.pdf
#3
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Now, is your motor sensored or sensorless. If it's sensored you need to have the sensor cable hooked up. If the vehicle ends up going in reverse when you try to go forward don't reverse the throttle channel. Reversing the throttle channel will actually mess up the esc calibration you just did. If your motor is sensorless simply switch two of the motor wires or use the programming box for your esc as it should have an option to reverse motor direction. If your motor is sensored you must use the programming box for your esc to reverse motor direction as each motor wire must be connected to its proper location on the esc or it won't run right.
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My motor is sensored and the wires are connected right the motor goes forward as it should and I do ha've the sensor cable connected also. I checked my soldering points all is shining I think bad motor
#7
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Ok so you're sensored, the motor wires go from "A" on the esc to "A" on the motor , "B" to "B" and the sensor wire is connected. If that's the case then try disconnecting the sensor wire from the esc. This should put the esc into sensorless mode and won't harm anything unless you run for an extended period of time. Sensored motors generally don't like running in sensorless mode as the esc usually doesn't get the timing quite right so the motor will heat up over the course of a run. If the motor runs fine with the sensor wire disconnected then you have a problem that's most likely in the motor sensor.
You mentioned having a noise possibly from the center diff. Remove the pinion or adjust the motor so the pinion isn't touching the spur and check the drivetrain for smoothness. Then try running the motor without it connected to the spur gear, just use smooth throttle inputs as sudden throttle without a load on the motor can damage it. Also make sure your mesh isn't too tight. A 1/8 setup should be able to overcome tight mesh and just destroy the spur but you never know, I've seen 1/10 motors that will barely turn when the spur to pinion mesh is too tight.
If all that checks out then you likely have something wrong with the motor or esc. If it's the motor then it's likely a problem in the sensor part, if the windings or something else were messed up the motor wouldn't run at all. If the motor runs fine without the sensor wire there could be a problem with the sensor wire or the esc itself.
You mentioned having a noise possibly from the center diff. Remove the pinion or adjust the motor so the pinion isn't touching the spur and check the drivetrain for smoothness. Then try running the motor without it connected to the spur gear, just use smooth throttle inputs as sudden throttle without a load on the motor can damage it. Also make sure your mesh isn't too tight. A 1/8 setup should be able to overcome tight mesh and just destroy the spur but you never know, I've seen 1/10 motors that will barely turn when the spur to pinion mesh is too tight.
If all that checks out then you likely have something wrong with the motor or esc. If it's the motor then it's likely a problem in the sensor part, if the windings or something else were messed up the motor wouldn't run at all. If the motor runs fine without the sensor wire there could be a problem with the sensor wire or the esc itself.
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Thanks for the reply but yes wires are connected right and I did try the motor without the sensor and it didn't work and its not the diff because took the motor off and ran the motor and it will go the start sounding funny and stop and go I will try to post a video when I get off so people can hear and see what I mean
#9
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Well Hobbyking's description says the esc can operate sensored and sensorless motors, the instructions collector posted says it does both as well. With the sensor wire disconnected the esc should be able to run a sensored motor in sensorless mode, if it can't there's something seriously wrong. Plus the way the motor is stopping and starting when not connected to anything indicates a serious problem with the esc determining the motors position. I lean towards this being a problem with the esc but whether the cause is the motor or the esc is hard to determine without another motor or esc (any size doesn't matter) to test with your existing ones. Do you have another motor or esc?
I'd stop wasting time on the forums and call or email Hobbyking before any warrantee you may have runs out.
I'd stop wasting time on the forums and call or email Hobbyking before any warrantee you may have runs out.
Last edited by Maj_Overdrive; 10-16-2015 at 08:35 AM.
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Ok hi sent a new motor and Iran the motor after soldering but didn't put it in the car and it ran good. Then I put it in the can and its acting up again same as the first one so I guess it's the esc. I don't have any other motors or wax to test so will try to get a replacement esc now. Thanks for everyone help and input
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First, did you resolve your issue yet?
Next, the problem you are describing is called "cogging". It is the result is of insufficient power to the motor. This can be one of the following or a combination of them: bad esc (I have both a 1/8 scale and a 1/18th trackstar esc that were bad when I bought them), bad motor (overheated a castle 2200kv motor and it caused it to sputter "cog"), batteries that don't have a high enough c rating (this will cause cogging and the batteries will heat up quickly, so make sure to check your battery temps). The last thing that it could be is a drive train issue, you can check that by removing the motor and just making sure the wheels roll smoothly. I have run into each of these problems over the past year.
Next, the problem you are describing is called "cogging". It is the result is of insufficient power to the motor. This can be one of the following or a combination of them: bad esc (I have both a 1/8 scale and a 1/18th trackstar esc that were bad when I bought them), bad motor (overheated a castle 2200kv motor and it caused it to sputter "cog"), batteries that don't have a high enough c rating (this will cause cogging and the batteries will heat up quickly, so make sure to check your battery temps). The last thing that it could be is a drive train issue, you can check that by removing the motor and just making sure the wheels roll smoothly. I have run into each of these problems over the past year.
#12
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Mosh8877 Thank you I got a new motor they sent me an New one and I ran the motor only not connected tx the car and it runs now but will keep this info just in case I have any problems when I put it in the car
Last edited by almaidah; 11-01-2015 at 04:31 PM.