newbie with honcho questions
06-17-2016, 03:02 AM
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newbie with honcho questions
just got a axial honcho...believe it or not it is the first rc vehicle I have ever owned. after 2 hrs run time my thought are:
1-center of gravity needs to b much lower
2-needs more torque/less acceleration
anyway, my questions are:
1-please explain how the motors aren't made to b waterproofed and does it fry the motor when u drive in water...I watched several videos and the guys whose trucks stopped running because the motor got wet didn't seem upset?
2-what is easiest/best way to lower cg...on this chassis there doesn't seem to b a lower mounting location for battery
3-how hard is it to change whatever gear would improve torque and what is that gear called...as I said im a newbie and do not know the terminology yet
4-i wasn't expecting the tires to b glued to rims...was thinking that putting sand inside tires would lower cg and improve traction...now I don't know if I could remove tires without damaging them
5-would going to 2.2 tires really improve truck?
6-though now retired I was a professional welder/metal fabricator and plan to replace the suspension pats with ones I make from metal but am clueless as to what gear/servo/transmission upgrades would help?
7-would it help to stiffen the body by adding metal plate under hood and bed?
8-would it b useful to attach weight under front bumper and under rear of bed...also was thinking about replacing the plastic side skid bars(not sure what they should b called) with metal ones which would lower cg and help with traction?
other than turning truck upside down too much im fairly happy with it so far...I plan to set up a muddy trail course to play in and am concerned about waterproofing and rust...any advice very welcome
1-center of gravity needs to b much lower
2-needs more torque/less acceleration
anyway, my questions are:
1-please explain how the motors aren't made to b waterproofed and does it fry the motor when u drive in water...I watched several videos and the guys whose trucks stopped running because the motor got wet didn't seem upset?
2-what is easiest/best way to lower cg...on this chassis there doesn't seem to b a lower mounting location for battery
3-how hard is it to change whatever gear would improve torque and what is that gear called...as I said im a newbie and do not know the terminology yet
4-i wasn't expecting the tires to b glued to rims...was thinking that putting sand inside tires would lower cg and improve traction...now I don't know if I could remove tires without damaging them
5-would going to 2.2 tires really improve truck?
6-though now retired I was a professional welder/metal fabricator and plan to replace the suspension pats with ones I make from metal but am clueless as to what gear/servo/transmission upgrades would help?
7-would it help to stiffen the body by adding metal plate under hood and bed?
8-would it b useful to attach weight under front bumper and under rear of bed...also was thinking about replacing the plastic side skid bars(not sure what they should b called) with metal ones which would lower cg and help with traction?
other than turning truck upside down too much im fairly happy with it so far...I plan to set up a muddy trail course to play in and am concerned about waterproofing and rust...any advice very welcome
06-17-2016, 07:46 AM
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1. The trucks you saw in videos were running brushless systems. Brushed motors are 100% waterproof.
2. Have you moved the battery to the front yet? http://www.axialracing.com/blog_posts/1073904225
3. You would want a bigger spur gear or a smaller pinion gear if you wanted torque, or buy a higher turn motor.
4. There are many ways to remove RC tires including baking, acetone, and whatever else will get rid of the glue. I've heard filling the tires with metal BB's increases traction, though.
5. No.
6. Metal servo arm for sure, metal idler gear, and metal body mounts/shock mounts.
7. Yes, but that would make it very top heavy. Just keep the body as-is.
8. No. Swap your battery to the front to start and you can go from there.
2. Have you moved the battery to the front yet? http://www.axialracing.com/blog_posts/1073904225
3. You would want a bigger spur gear or a smaller pinion gear if you wanted torque, or buy a higher turn motor.
4. There are many ways to remove RC tires including baking, acetone, and whatever else will get rid of the glue. I've heard filling the tires with metal BB's increases traction, though.
5. No.
6. Metal servo arm for sure, metal idler gear, and metal body mounts/shock mounts.
7. Yes, but that would make it very top heavy. Just keep the body as-is.
8. No. Swap your battery to the front to start and you can go from there.
06-17-2016, 03:24 PM
#4
You can buy spur and pinion gears from axial and many other places. nope not hard at all 3 screws on the spur cover. 2 on the motor take the motor out. one on the pinion gear on the motor. for the spur the one in the middle with the spring, then 3 to remove the spur.
as for lowering the COG the best way IMO is in the axles. you can go for some beef tubes or a good cheap way i found to do is solder. for soldering wires.
as for lowering the COG the best way IMO is in the axles. you can go for some beef tubes or a good cheap way i found to do is solder. for soldering wires.
06-17-2016, 05:39 PM
#5
There are a lot of videos on You tube for waterproofing your RC, check them out. While the general opinion is to move your battery forward, you need to experiment on your own, to see what works best for YOU.
With the exception of my 1/6 Jeep, my SCX10 and Wroncho both run the battery in the stock rear position. My Axial beadlock rims have 2oz of lead weights in each front wheel, plus 2oz of stick-on weights on top of the servo. My trucks are balanced, not too heavy in front, not too heavy in the rear. I'm also using Nimh batteries. These trucks can climb without flipping over backwards, and on the way down, they don't somersault either, you put all the weight up front, they will tumble downhill.
If you check out the 1/6 jeep build, a few threads down, you will see that the battery is set behind the firewall, which is actually forward of the center of the frame, but not over the front wheels.
Putting sand in the tires is NOT a good idea, while it does lower your COG, it creates too much rotating mass, and will kill the gears in your axles and transmission.
With the exception of my 1/6 Jeep, my SCX10 and Wroncho both run the battery in the stock rear position. My Axial beadlock rims have 2oz of lead weights in each front wheel, plus 2oz of stick-on weights on top of the servo. My trucks are balanced, not too heavy in front, not too heavy in the rear. I'm also using Nimh batteries. These trucks can climb without flipping over backwards, and on the way down, they don't somersault either, you put all the weight up front, they will tumble downhill.
If you check out the 1/6 jeep build, a few threads down, you will see that the battery is set behind the firewall, which is actually forward of the center of the frame, but not over the front wheels.
Putting sand in the tires is NOT a good idea, while it does lower your COG, it creates too much rotating mass, and will kill the gears in your axles and transmission.
06-17-2016, 08:02 PM
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There are a lot of videos on You tube for waterproofing your RC, check them out. While the general opinion is to move your battery forward, you need to experiment on your own, to see what works best for YOU.
With the exception of my 1/6 Jeep, my SCX10 and Wroncho both run the battery in the stock rear position. My Axial beadlock rims have 2oz of lead weights in each front wheel, plus 2oz of stick-on weights on top of the servo. My trucks are balanced, not too heavy in front, not too heavy in the rear. I'm also using Nimh batteries. These trucks can climb without flipping over backwards, and on the way down, they don't somersault either, you put all the weight up front, they will tumble downhill.
If you check out the 1/6 jeep build, a few threads down, you will see that the battery is set behind the firewall, which is actually forward of the center of the frame, but not over the front wheels.
Putting sand in the tires is NOT a good idea, while it does lower your COG, it creates too much rotating mass, and will kill the gears in your axles and transmission.
With the exception of my 1/6 Jeep, my SCX10 and Wroncho both run the battery in the stock rear position. My Axial beadlock rims have 2oz of lead weights in each front wheel, plus 2oz of stick-on weights on top of the servo. My trucks are balanced, not too heavy in front, not too heavy in the rear. I'm also using Nimh batteries. These trucks can climb without flipping over backwards, and on the way down, they don't somersault either, you put all the weight up front, they will tumble downhill.
If you check out the 1/6 jeep build, a few threads down, you will see that the battery is set behind the firewall, which is actually forward of the center of the frame, but not over the front wheels.
Putting sand in the tires is NOT a good idea, while it does lower your COG, it creates too much rotating mass, and will kill the gears in your axles and transmission.
They add weight to your axles and make them stronger.
06-18-2016, 08:13 AM
#9
yep wrap it around so it ends up to be around 2 inches or so and insert the axle in the you can twist the solder so it fits in the axle but not to much to rub on the axle and slow you down. then put it in the axle housing and close it up.
06-18-2016, 09:50 AM
#10
I've never heard this before, not that it can't be done, just hadn't heard of it. Usually, and I've done this before using the stick on wheel weights, you take the solder and wrap it around the inside of your wheels, cover with a wrap of electrical tape, then put your tires on.
06-18-2016, 10:46 AM
#13
No problem guys. here it is. i could have made them longer but i still have the plastic bearing retaining tab in the rear axle. i can still add more inside the lock out but i wanted less weight in the back. the beef tubes are in the front and the COG is low. helps to keep the tires on the ground more.
in the rockslide axles there is not a retainer so you can do this the whole way down the axle shaft and in the sxc10 if you grind the tab away. the thickness of the solder is important. to thick and it won't work.
in the rockslide axles there is not a retainer so you can do this the whole way down the axle shaft and in the sxc10 if you grind the tab away. the thickness of the solder is important. to thick and it won't work.
