Leaking retract air cylinder
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (21)
Leaking retract air cylinder
Hey fellas I've tried the bvm o-ring lube but to no avail. The offending cylinder is on my yellow a/c F18 retract that I have zero confidence in getting a replaced.
Any suggestions and possible fixes? It Appears to be leaking around the drive shaft as it exits the cylinder. I've sent a message to down and locked as to possible conversion and currently waiting on response.
thanks
Any suggestions and possible fixes? It Appears to be leaking around the drive shaft as it exits the cylinder. I've sent a message to down and locked as to possible conversion and currently waiting on response.
thanks
#2
My Feedback: (9)
Hey fellas I've tried the bvm o-ring lube but to no avail. The offending cylinder is on my yellow a/c F18 retract that I have zero confidence in getting a replaced.
Any suggestions and possible fixes? It Appears to be leaking around the drive shaft as it exits the cylinder. I've sent a message to down and locked as to possible conversion and currently waiting on response.
thanks
Any suggestions and possible fixes? It Appears to be leaking around the drive shaft as it exits the cylinder. I've sent a message to down and locked as to possible conversion and currently waiting on response.
thanks
Harbor freight has a kit with a crap load of Orings and might have your size.
#4
My Feedback: (24)
Yeah, as Chris said, if its the shaft O-ring, the only option is to disassemble the cylinder, remove the shaft, and replace the o-ring itself. On most cylinders, if you can get it apart and get the shaft out, you can replace the o-ring.
If its the piston o-ring, then Maj. Woody's technique of taking off the o-ring, wrapping some teflon tape around the piston grove, and replacing the o-ring with BVM lube on it, works great.
Bob
If its the piston o-ring, then Maj. Woody's technique of taking off the o-ring, wrapping some teflon tape around the piston grove, and replacing the o-ring with BVM lube on it, works great.
Bob
#5
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (21)
Well after removing affected cylinder and placing in bowl of water it was apparent the nipple was the offending item. Unfortunately when removing the air line it became even more obvious what the problem was as the nipple broke off completely. So I guess I can try a Robart cylinder of similar dimensions and stroke. Still waiting on return call / email from down and locked. If anyone knows those guys tell em I could use their help.
#9
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Longwood ,
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Here ya go, Buck.
http://www.clippard.com/products/fitting-barb-mini
Use the 3-56 fitting with a 1/16 barb. Just get a # 46 drill bit, and a 3-56 tap.
Use some good tap lube when tapping, and work carefully. Seal it with some blue Locktite........
http://www.clippard.com/products/fitting-barb-mini
Use the 3-56 fitting with a 1/16 barb. Just get a # 46 drill bit, and a 3-56 tap.
Use some good tap lube when tapping, and work carefully. Seal it with some blue Locktite........
#16
i replaced the entire cylinder, also on a yellow f18, (noseleg) with I think a robart 5/8? x 2 inch. had to make a small extentsion on the side frames, and the piston movement was way too long, but that doesn't matter, it just goes to the distance it needs to. has worked for 4 years and 200 flights, cost about $30
#19
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (21)
i replaced the entire cylinder, also on a yellow f18, (noseleg) with I think a robart 5/8? x 2 inch. had to make a small extentsion on the side frames, and the piston movement was way too long, but that doesn't matter, it just goes to the distance it needs to. has worked for 4 years and 200 flights, cost about $30