Edde1982

I’m new in the nitro world and Just got me a new revo 3.3 a couple of weeks back. did the break in, Settings are at fabric, hsp 4 turns out and the lsp is at even with the edge of the slide valve. Using 16% Corelly fuel. When adjusting the hsp needle by only 1/16 it drives excellent super acceleration and shifting as it should. But now the thing is when using this setting the temperature gets between 150/160 degrees Celcius( not measured with a gun but from the sensor and read it of my dashboard)
When I turn it back it falls back in speed and no shifting. Do I need to cut a hole in the windshield? Or does it has anything to do about the lsp needle? Hope you guys can help me out.

1QwkSport2.5r

The factory needle settings are only to get the engine started for the first time. They are almost always too rich for breaking in and WAY too rich for regular running. However, if you’re getting over 300F (150C), you’re too lean. If you’re running on grass, this could be why you’re running so hot. You don’t want to see more than 270F (132C) when tuned correctly typically. Open the main needle 1/2 turn and expect to need to lean it down a tick or two from here. If your rpm sags in a WOT pass, you need to go richer. Your idle mixture is set such that it will idle for a few seconds and you can hear the idle drop a little bit and then hold stable for 10 seconds or so. From here, it should rev cleanly to WOT with proper shifting. If your rpm hangs for a couple seconds after a WOT pass, your idle mixture is set a tad lean. Also, you want the idle gap to be 0.5mm-0.7mm for proper tuning. If it’s open more than that and runs correctly (relatively speaking), your needle settings are probably too rich. Set the idle gap first, tune the high speed first to the cleanest and fastest WOT, then set about 1/8 turn richer. Set your idle for a low reliable idle and clean transition to WOT. When set correctly, your operating temp should be 240-270F (115C-132C).