Spektrum DX7S
#1
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 0
Received 72 Likes
on
68 Posts
Spektrum DX7S
Hello Spektrum lovers, friend gave me back his Radio and model helicopter to check the problem. I have set up the model for him about 3 years ago, test flew it, all good.
He hasn't touch it ever since after giving it to him back ready for action all those years ago! LOL.
Radio doesn't turn on, screen is dead, only the "flashing light" comes on with the light clicking sound as it flashes.
I checked the battery (4cell NMHi 2000mA) also hooked up one of my 4cell pack with the same result.
I sent the query to Model Flight, still waiting for the response, any idea/suggestion what might be the issue?
Could it be just the inner fuse or inner batter dead?
He hasn't touch it ever since after giving it to him back ready for action all those years ago! LOL.
Radio doesn't turn on, screen is dead, only the "flashing light" comes on with the light clicking sound as it flashes.
I checked the battery (4cell NMHi 2000mA) also hooked up one of my 4cell pack with the same result.
I sent the query to Model Flight, still waiting for the response, any idea/suggestion what might be the issue?
Could it be just the inner fuse or inner batter dead?
#2
There's no inner fuse.
A dead battery would do this - check it on a voltmeter.
The clicking and blinking light indicate the radio is trying to start up - that's good. If there's a card in the radio, remove it. Does that fix it?
If not, then (re-) install the latest code update. The card needs to be 32 gig or smaller, Class 6 or lower. To do that you need the serial number - hopefully you or your friend registered it already.
Andy
A dead battery would do this - check it on a voltmeter.
The clicking and blinking light indicate the radio is trying to start up - that's good. If there's a card in the radio, remove it. Does that fix it?
If not, then (re-) install the latest code update. The card needs to be 32 gig or smaller, Class 6 or lower. To do that you need the serial number - hopefully you or your friend registered it already.
Andy
#3
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 0
Received 72 Likes
on
68 Posts
Thank Andy, yeasty after further communication with MF Tech. he also suggested to remove the SD card to see if it comes on. All good after removal, so I can only assume faulty card? He also suggested to replace it with the lowest capacity and slowest card.
I haven't got TX manual and no idea if the radio owner ever registered, most likely not as he has never flown this model, being the only one programmed in the radio.
The stock 4cell/2Ah battery when put under charger peaks to well over 7Volts but when installed in the TX the Voltage reads only some 5.6 same under E-meter, so not sure if that's the problem because after using my own 4cell pack it also did not come on with the card in!
BTW, MF suggested to use 2S Lipo? Can this Radio handle 8+ Voltage??? while coming as a stock with 4.8V set up?
Another trouble is, after removal of the card the model did not come on after hooking up with 6S lipo power after couple of tries last night, but I'm going to try to re-bind it today without the card, to see if it works. After all these years sitting on the bench it's not a surprise
the things go LEMONY, LOL.
This lousy radio doesn't even have BIND option in its program list, only the Bind/Trainer button on the top. I'm only trying to help this bloke as he got no idea about TX or the model giving it to others to fix it! LOL.
It worked perfectly fine over 3 years ago when I set it up for him also test flying it, but not now! Bugger!
Much too nice model for an amateur!
It worked 3+ years ago.
I haven't got TX manual and no idea if the radio owner ever registered, most likely not as he has never flown this model, being the only one programmed in the radio.
The stock 4cell/2Ah battery when put under charger peaks to well over 7Volts but when installed in the TX the Voltage reads only some 5.6 same under E-meter, so not sure if that's the problem because after using my own 4cell pack it also did not come on with the card in!
BTW, MF suggested to use 2S Lipo? Can this Radio handle 8+ Voltage??? while coming as a stock with 4.8V set up?
Another trouble is, after removal of the card the model did not come on after hooking up with 6S lipo power after couple of tries last night, but I'm going to try to re-bind it today without the card, to see if it works. After all these years sitting on the bench it's not a surprise
the things go LEMONY, LOL.
This lousy radio doesn't even have BIND option in its program list, only the Bind/Trainer button on the top. I'm only trying to help this bloke as he got no idea about TX or the model giving it to others to fix it! LOL.
It worked perfectly fine over 3 years ago when I set it up for him also test flying it, but not now! Bugger!
Much too nice model for an amateur!
It worked 3+ years ago.
#5
The hardware in the DX7S/DX8 was not capable of being bound from the menu. When we created the G2 platform, that was one of the major changes we made. I'm glad you like the improved hardware better.
I'm also glad you heeded my suggestion to remove the card.
The DX7S will use the same LiPo or LiIon battery packs that are available for the G2 radios such as the DX9 or DX18. You will need to change the Chemistry setting on the System Settings page when you do that (insert the new battery, then change the Chemistry). This only affects the alarm points - the charge system is hardware-controlled.
Hope that helps!
Andy
I'm also glad you heeded my suggestion to remove the card.
The DX7S will use the same LiPo or LiIon battery packs that are available for the G2 radios such as the DX9 or DX18. You will need to change the Chemistry setting on the System Settings page when you do that (insert the new battery, then change the Chemistry). This only affects the alarm points - the charge system is hardware-controlled.
Hope that helps!
Andy
#6
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 0
Received 72 Likes
on
68 Posts
The hardware in the DX7S/DX8 was not capable of being bound from the menu. When we created the G2 platform, that was one of the major changes we made. I'm glad you like the improved hardware better.
I'm also glad you heeded my suggestion to remove the card.
The DX7S will use the same LiPo or LiIon battery packs that are available for the G2 radios such as the DX9 or DX18. You will need to change the Chemistry setting on the System Settings page when you do that (insert the new battery, then change the Chemistry). This only affects the alarm points - the charge system is hardware-controlled.
Hope that helps!
Andy
I'm also glad you heeded my suggestion to remove the card.
The DX7S will use the same LiPo or LiIon battery packs that are available for the G2 radios such as the DX9 or DX18. You will need to change the Chemistry setting on the System Settings page when you do that (insert the new battery, then change the Chemistry). This only affects the alarm points - the charge system is hardware-controlled.
Hope that helps!
Andy
While you are Spektrum employee I highly suggest to your designers to do something about those ridiculously long Radio stix, which is the worst thing for any amateur/RC beginner to start with to learn to fly!!!
It would be a great idea to design them so they can be shortened if required to 10-15mm by very simple mods. to suit anyone preferring them shorter, rather than snapping off the whole thread and machining the new ones to suit, as I had
to do again this morning to this "DX7S" to take it for a test flying to feel comfortable with it as all my radios are modified to 11mm long stix - a great advantage to fly precision so you don't have to move the stix all over the place!
It would be so much easier to give an option to make them shorter as a stock rather than what I had to do with all my TXs.
#8
While you are Spektrum employee I highly suggest to your designers to do something about those ridiculously long Radio stix, which is the worst thing for any amateur/RC beginner to start with to learn to fly!!!
It would be a great idea to design them so they can be shortened if required to 10-15mm by very simple mods. to suit anyone preferring them shorter, rather than snapping off the whole thread and machining the new ones to suit, as I had
to do again this morning to this "DX7S" to take it for a test flying to feel comfortable with it as all my radios are modified to 11mm long stix - a great advantage to fly precision so you don't have to move the stix all over the place!
It would be a great idea to design them so they can be shortened if required to 10-15mm by very simple mods. to suit anyone preferring them shorter, rather than snapping off the whole thread and machining the new ones to suit, as I had
to do again this morning to this "DX7S" to take it for a test flying to feel comfortable with it as all my radios are modified to 11mm long stix - a great advantage to fly precision so you don't have to move the stix all over the place!
Nice collection of antique radios (including the DX7S). Nice helicopter, too.
Apparently you haven't worked on any of our current products. Newer radios have very different gimbal designs.
You like short sticks. That's fine. I like long sticks - I get the longest tips I can find, and crank them out as far as possible. This gives better precision of control, as it takes a larger displacement and so provides more precise control of the servos. Short sticks in general are for 3D pilots or folks with small hands or gamers or thumbers. I have big hands, so even with the maxed-out sticks on my radios, I can either thumb or pinch them (I do both).
Lucky for you the product developer who handles the ergo has small hands. As a result of his input, newer products would probably be more to your liking, although I can't see us ever making them as short as you have there as that would not make for a sufficient base for proper long sticks for precision flyers.
Andy
#9
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 0
Received 72 Likes
on
68 Posts
Reply to - Nice collection of antique radios (including the DX7S). Nice helicopter, too.
Tx, those MX22's beat any Spektrum any time, the first one as on pic is now 19 years old after just about daily flying action. I bet anyone, that none of the Spektrum radio will last that prolific action, that's why I have 3 of them. Even by holding them in your hands you know you have a real RC radio! Just check the superior design of both side levers, compared to that lousy design as on DX9 as an example, I had to immediately re-design after getting one.
Tell me which Spektrum TX can fly on both, 36 meg, and 2.4 gig. whenever I like?
BTW, people who never try short stix as mine would never know its advantage for precision flying which is my specialty. They would never even dare to cut the stix as I do to every new radio, so what would you know? LOL.
My main point was suggesting to any radio makers to design stix for simple and easy adjustment to any length including an absolute minimal like 10mm if needed to, doesn't take a scientist to do that!
Tx, those MX22's beat any Spektrum any time, the first one as on pic is now 19 years old after just about daily flying action. I bet anyone, that none of the Spektrum radio will last that prolific action, that's why I have 3 of them. Even by holding them in your hands you know you have a real RC radio! Just check the superior design of both side levers, compared to that lousy design as on DX9 as an example, I had to immediately re-design after getting one.
Tell me which Spektrum TX can fly on both, 36 meg, and 2.4 gig. whenever I like?
BTW, people who never try short stix as mine would never know its advantage for precision flying which is my specialty. They would never even dare to cut the stix as I do to every new radio, so what would you know? LOL.
My main point was suggesting to any radio makers to design stix for simple and easy adjustment to any length including an absolute minimal like 10mm if needed to, doesn't take a scientist to do that!
#10
I've flown with short sticks. They were not nearly as usable for precision flying as some folks say. Precision is very different than speed. If you need speed, such as for 3D thrashing, then yes, short sticks are better.
But if they work for you, great.
Andy
But if they work for you, great.
Andy
#12
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 0
Received 72 Likes
on
68 Posts
Those were the days. It was my first radio, not much fun to handle complex 5ch. scale helicopter by 4ch. radio, and no gyro! Great introduction to RC. LOL now.
I was gradually shortening my stix bit by bit down to 11mm nowadays, for fine touch of precision flying.
I was gradually shortening my stix bit by bit down to 11mm nowadays, for fine touch of precision flying.
The following users liked this post:
init4fun (06-30-2024)
#14
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 0
Received 72 Likes
on
68 Posts
Tx, my 1st. ever RC model, "Groupner - Bell-212", Germans even flew it with that old radio across the English Channel back in '70's while RC pilot was sitting in the full-size chopper. I wasn't happy with that M2 controller, soon after getting it I have upgraded to one of the first 6ch. Futaba- M1 to split the Throttle and Collective on separate servos. Later got 5 more of those models as 2nd. hand I have enjoyed for many years when X-Cell and Vario took over them.
After getting my thumps over it.
After getting my thumps over it.
#15
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 0
Received 72 Likes
on
68 Posts
Hello Spektrum lovers, friend gave me back his Radio and model helicopter to check the problem. I have set up the model for him about 3 years ago, test flew it, all good.
He hasn't touch it ever since after giving it to him back ready for action all those years ago! LOL.
Radio doesn't turn on, screen is dead, only the "flashing light" comes on with the light clicking sound as it flashes.
I checked the battery (4cell NMHi 2000mA) also hooked up one of my 4cell pack with the same result.
I sent the query to Model Flight, still waiting for the response, any idea/suggestion what might be the issue?
Could it be just the inner fuse or inner batter dead?
He hasn't touch it ever since after giving it to him back ready for action all those years ago! LOL.
Radio doesn't turn on, screen is dead, only the "flashing light" comes on with the light clicking sound as it flashes.
I checked the battery (4cell NMHi 2000mA) also hooked up one of my 4cell pack with the same result.
I sent the query to Model Flight, still waiting for the response, any idea/suggestion what might be the issue?
Could it be just the inner fuse or inner batter dead?
Now flying it with short stix after cutting all the thread and half of the stix down.
#16
Thread Starter
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Coffs Harbour NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 1,644
Likes: 0
Received 72 Likes
on
68 Posts
I wouldn't call art of "F3P/Pattern" style of flying "3/D trashing", where you fly sub-70-gram AUW models in most extreme maneuvers as slow as possible as an example.
I definitely wouldn't trash-fly these type of artwork creations around with well over 100 hours to build each.
I definitely wouldn't trash-fly these type of artwork creations around with well over 100 hours to build each.